# Paph culture tips



## NYEric (Mar 13, 2009)

OK, I said I'd do this so..
I'm posting a list of Paph species and I'd like to get growers' inputs on requirements [even if based on rumor] fro successfull growing. The categories I'd like to see addressed are: temperature, light, watering, fertilizer, pot size, media and mineral additives, air flow, and any seasonal changes recommended. 

armeniacum:

delenatii:

emersonii:

hangianum:

jackii:

malipoense:

micranthum:

vietnamense:

[thaianum:]

bellatulum:

concolor:

godefroyae:

niveum:

barbigerum:

boxalii:

charlesworthii:

druryi:

exul:

fairrieanum:

gratrixianum:

helenae:

henryanum:

hermanii:

hirsutissimum:

insigne:

spicerianum:

tigrinum:

tranlienianum:

villosum:

acmodontum:

appletonianum:

argus:

barbatum:

bullenianum:

callosum:

ciliolare:

curtsii:

dayanum:

fowliei:

hennisianum:

hookerae:

javanicum:

lawrenceanum:

mastersianum:

purpuratum:

sangii:

schoseri:

sukhakulii:

superbiens:

tonsum:

urbanianum:

venustum:

violascens:

virens:

wardii:

wolterianum:

adductum:

diantum:

glanduliferum:

haynaldianum:

kolopakingii:

lowii:

parishii:

philippinense:

platyphyllum:

randsii:

richardianum:

rothschildianum:

sanderianum:

stonei:

supardii:

wilhelminae:

chamberlianum:

glaucophyllum:

liemianum:

moquetteanum:

primulinum:

victor-mariae:

victor-reginae:

Just learn how to spell some of them. THanx.


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## Hera (Mar 13, 2009)

Whoa you're not askin' for much are you.


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## likespaphs (Mar 13, 2009)

just a whisker shy of the moon.....


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## NYEric (Mar 13, 2009)

People are able to contribute to whichever they want. Remember I don't grow a lot of species but at least this should help w/ hybrid and species culture.


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## parvi_17 (Mar 13, 2009)

Well here is how I have found success with a couple of these:

P. delenatii: I grow it in a regular bark mix (fine) and water with tap water (as I do all my Paphs). I keep it moist but not wet. I grow in moderate-low light. Temps are intermediate. I fertilize the same as any Paph. It flowers very freely with little seasonal change needed. Blooming sized seedlings grow in 2.5-3" pots, larger plants in 4" pots.

P. villosum: Moderate light, intermediate temps. Everything else pretty standard. My multi-growth plant is in a 5" pot with a mixture of fine and medium bark media. It seems to flower quite freely.

I grow other species on this list as well but haven't flowered them yet, so I probably shouldn't post anything on them.


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## SlipperKing (Mar 13, 2009)

armeniacum:I like the conconut fiber lined hanging basket for this species and I'm about to try micranthum: and tigrinum: Media consist of 6 parts of 50/50 mix media bark/CHC damp, 3 parts # 3 sponage rock, 1.5 parts of charcoal (1/4 inch) 1 cup of bone meal and mix. After plants are potted up add to the top cruched oyster shell, a good bit of it. Note; this mix is for all my plants regardless of the type of container. I have never seen the greenhouse above 90'F in the summer because of the wet wall and I have 3 circulating fans, 2 exhust fans. The light levels vary between 4000 and 6000 Foot Candles I'm guessing. I fertize with Peter's professional 20/20/20 150ppm N everytime I water and never flush. Well many not never, once or twice a year. The water is collected rain. I backed off this past fall to 50ppm N for the first time, in past years I switched to a bloom booster fert. I water every 2 sometimes 3 days in the summer and far less in the winter 5 to up to 10 days in the winter. I will add more as time allots for.


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## NYEric (Mar 13, 2009)

Thanx, I'm waiting for the species 'heavyweights' to chime in!


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## SlipperKing (Mar 13, 2009)

NYEric said:


> Thanx, I'm waiting for the species 'heavyweights' to chime in!


Who would that be?? Hakone? Uri? I have everyone of them on your list with the exception of a few. Also have bloomed 90% of the ones I have.


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## Kavanaru (Mar 13, 2009)

http://www.slipperorchids.info/paphdatasheets/index.html


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## Elena (Mar 13, 2009)

I don't consider myself to be a "species heavyweight" or anything like that but I can post what seems to work for me as someone who grows Paph species on windowsills if that's of any interest? 

Obviously I've been growing them for a fairly short time so I can only speak about short-term (2 or so years max) results in growing and flowering. In that time I also started noticing some patterns. I appear to have the best luck ( I hesitate to call them success for now) with Brachypetalum and Coryopeilum species. Not doing too badly with the Insigne group and while the Parvis (and their hybrids) grow fine for me I'm yet to flower one.



I can start with tranlienianum because it's my most vigorous Paph by far and also one of my very first ones too so I've had it longer than others.

The plant is in my living room and I use no temp control, artificial lighting or any humidity control gadgets.

The plant is in a 3 inch pot. The potting mix is a simple bark and perlite mix, I'd say roughly a 2:1 ratio. I top dress with crushed oyster shell and last summer I started adding about a teaspoon of bone meal to the mix too. 

Watered approx once every 7 days. 5 days if it's warm and 10-14 days during the colder months. Fertilised at full strength at every watering using tap water which is fairly good quality here. basically trying to keep it evenly moist. Not constantly wet and not too dry.

Located on a West-facing windowsill, it gets a fairly bright shade with direct evening sun in the summer. I tried growing it brighter on a South facing windowsill but growths got stunted after a short while.

Hope that's okay.



Other species that flowered for me are concolor, fairrieanum, leucochilum, philippinense and wilhelminiae. Niveum and rothschildianum are currently in bud.


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## Yoyo_Jo (Mar 13, 2009)

This is going to be a great thread to refer back to. Awesome idea. :clap:


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## SlipperFan (Mar 13, 2009)

Kavanaru said:


> http://www.slipperorchids.info/paphdatasheets/index.html


You beat me to it, Ramon.

I made a table based on the information on these tables to help me with my Ppahs.


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## Jo Ann (Mar 13, 2009)

I had a Paph malipoense seedling that was really happy while I watered it once a week. I also tried to keep it warm and humid in winter. Then I started watering it twice a week, and in two weeks it was dead! They don't like for their roots to stay wet.


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## Eric Muehlbauer (Mar 13, 2009)

well, Eric, you sure are ambitious....I'll help if I can condense it...
Parvi's (except delanatii)- standard mix (fine bark, coarse sponge rock,charcoal) with oyster shell/limestone/coral chips
cool, strong light for armeniacum, shadier for the others....cold winters, normal summers...good luck!
delanatii- same as above, but instead of oyster shell (NONE!) use NZ sphagnum...treat it like a phrag, very wet (but without the "wet feet"), same light (bright...does not have to be strong though...) warmer than the other parvis, but a chill can't hurt. easy.....
Cochlo's....same mix as the parvis. same light....warmer temps (except for mariae, but I can't say from experience...) some are easy, some are not...liemianum and glaucophyllum tend to be easier...sometimes primulinum...seems to be very individual..some clones easy, some not
insigne group....same mix, maybe without the oyster shell...same lighting...cool to cold in winter. Some real easy...like insigne...full range from easy to difficult. Even easy ones aren't reliable...may bloom easily one year, skip a few years in between blooms. henryanum and barbigerum easy to grow, cranky to bloom...charlesworthii just cranky....
barbata- same mix, NO limestone or oyster shell....shady, warm, (for most...sukhakulii, wardii, venustum prefer cooler) can be very easy to grow (callosum, sukhakulii) or harder (violascens, mastersianum)...but easy to bloom as long as they live.
Brachy's- weird. Same mix, but extra sponge rock or other inert media. they need fresh media, but hate repotting. Temps vary...warmer for niveum, cooler for bellatulum, the others in between. bright light, but doesn't have to be strong......hard to keep alive...but easy to bloom as long as they live. 
Pardalopetalums- very easy (haynaldianum) easy (lowii) cranky (parishii, dianthum) same mix.. light varies...lower for parishii, medium for haynaldianum, higher for lowii (but doesn't need strong light...) haynaldianum and lowii are very easy to bloom....parishii is just slow as ****, but will bloom easily enough when its ready...not enough experience with dianthum.
The other multiflorals...well, I don't think I'm qualified....Take care, Eric


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## Yoyo_Jo (Mar 13, 2009)

Oh man, now I've really got to try and remember who's a parvi, who's a cochlo, who's a brachi. Dang. Takes a lot of brain power, dontcha know.


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## emydura (Mar 14, 2009)

Eric Muehlbauer said:


> Pardalopetalums- very easy (haynaldianum) easy (lowii) cranky (parishii, dianthum) same mix.. light varies...lower for parishii, medium for haynaldianum, higher for lowii (but doesn't need strong light...) haynaldianum and lowii are very easy to bloom....parishii is just slow as ****, but will bloom easily enough when its ready...not enough experience with dianthum.



I think dianthum is pretty easy to grow and bloom. A hundred times easier to grow than parishii. I'd say it is as hardy as lowii or haynaldianum.

I've personally never found callosum easy to grow. I've killed a few, especially the sublaeve form which I've had no luck with. I now have a couple of good clones of callosum which I seem to be growing well.

David


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## NYEric (Mar 14, 2009)

The list I posted is by group, I just didn't list the group title. This is for everyone's input so I don't mind if anyone starts their post with, "In my experience.." or, " I find that.." !


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## Paul (Mar 16, 2009)

Hello Erik, I have quite many of these, I just can you for those I am seuccesful by now:

armeniacum:

delenatii: Bark (to me, var. album needs sponge rock or other draining component), 10-52-10 fertiliser, warm, medium light

emersonii:

hangianum: temperate-warm, quite low light, always keep wet so well drained medium (rockwool for me), and ... dithane a few times each year. Leaves must be apple green, calcareous

jackii: 10-52-10, low light, temperate, humid but well drained

malipoense: as for jackii

micranthum: var. album is easier to grow for me, 10-52-10, medium light

vietnamense: medium light, warm summer, temperate winter, well drained medium but keep wet

[thaianum:] small pots, very well drained: lava rock (small) + composted crushed branches, 10-52-10

bellatulum: very well drained medium, small pots, high vented aera, quite high light, temperate to warm, calcareous

concolor: higher light than bellatulum, warmer

godefroyae: medium light, hot growing

niveum: as for godefroyae

barbigerum:

boxalii:

charlesworthii: temperate, never dry

druryi: high light, hot summers, osmocote (slow release fertiliser)

exul:

fairrieanum:

gratrixianum:

helenae: small pots, well drained, high light

henryanum:

hermanii:

hirsutissimum:

insigne:

spicerianum:

tigrinum:

tranlienianum:

villosum:

acmodontum:

appletonianum:

argus:

barbatum:

bullenianum:

callosum:

ciliolare:

curtsii:

dayanum:

fowliei:

hennisianum:

hookerae:

javanicum:

lawrenceanum:

mastersianum:

purpuratum:

sangii: rain water, very low salts, low light, humid, temperate or cool

schoseri:

sukhakulii: low light, easy to grow, rain water is better

superbiens:

tonsum:

urbanianum:

venustum:

violascens:

virens:

wardii:

wolterianum:

adductum: composted crushed branches + inorganic component (lava rock or other), warm, medium light

diantum: medium light, temperate, easy to grow

glanduliferum:

haynaldianum:

kolopakingii: temperate-warm, medium light, slow release fertiliser, well drained medium

lowii:

parishii:

philippinense: warm to hot, humid, high light, slow release fertiliser

platyphyllum: as for kolopakingii

randsii: fern roots (Asplenium, Osmunda, tree ferns ... ) in pots. Never repot (if possible lol)

richardianum:

rothschildianum: warm, high light, well drained pots, slow release fertiliser

sanderianum: warm to hot, very humid and shady, calcareous, well drained medium

stonei: warm to hot, as for roths

supardii:

wilhelminae: high light

chamberlianum:

glaucophyllum:

liemianum:

moquetteanum:

primulinum:

victor-mariae:

victor-reginae:


That's all by now lol


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## likespaphs (Mar 16, 2009)

i would like to take back my previous dig. 
this is a great topic!


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## NYEric (Mar 16, 2009)

If everyone contributes, even their bad experiences, it should be helpful.


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## Elena (Mar 16, 2009)

Actually, I might have learnt something this winter and I'm curious to see if other people had similar experiences. 

I think my tigrinum really hates drying out. Because we had such an unusually cold winter I made sure I was extremely careful with watering and kept the plans on the drier side to avoid any potential problems with rot, etc,. Most plants coped just fine but my tigrinum seedling (which grew very well in the previous months) lost a couple of leaves. The good news is it resumed growth as soon as I increased water so at least it's not a sulker.


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## NYEric (Mar 16, 2009)

So, what you're trying to say is, "In my experience, tigrinum does not like to be grown dry."??? oke:


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## Elena (Mar 16, 2009)

Something like that  Except that what I really want to know is if anyone else had a similar experience or if I'm barking up the wrong tree with the dryness being the cause.


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## Paul (Mar 16, 2009)

NYEric said:


> So, what you're trying to say is, "In my experience, tigrinum does not like to be grown dry."??? oke:



that's bizarre... I have let mine (seedling) dry completely for 1 month under cool temps and no problem.


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## NYEric (Mar 16, 2009)

Both responses are OK.  One person may have the plant next to a window in an apartment; while the other is in a greenhouse with higher relative humidity.


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## paphioboy (Mar 17, 2009)

Sorry for being off topic, but I'm just curious about Paul's 10-52-10 fertiliser as I am using the same (from Thailand). Will such an abnormally high P content bring harm to the plants? The only improving results that I've seen are that my plants no longer have brown tips on the leaves 9previously caused by lack of p, I think).. Any ideas?


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## SlipperKing (Mar 17, 2009)

Elena said:


> Something like that  Except that what I really want to know is if anyone else had a similar experience or if I'm barking up the wrong tree with the dryness being the cause.


Acturally Elena "barking up a tree" is ironic in that tigrinum does grow in trees. Like it's cousins, lowii, dianthum. This is why I suggested basket culture for this species. The technique will allow fast draining, always moist conditions which is easy to check by the weight of the basket.


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## SlipperKing (Mar 17, 2009)

paphioboy said:


> Sorry for being off topic, but I'm just curious about Paul's 10-52-10 fertiliser as I am using the same (from Thailand). Will such an abnormally high P content bring harm to the plants? The only improving results that I've seen are that my plants no longer have brown tips on the leaves 9previously caused by lack of p, I think).. Any ideas?


You're not off topic Paphioboy. This the same ratio of fertilizer that Sanderianum recommended and uses on his Parvis all the time.


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## paphioboy (Mar 17, 2009)

> You're not off topic Paphioboy. This the same ratio of fertilizer that Sanderianum recommended and uses on his Parvis all the time.



Thanks, Rick. Its just that I've never seen such a high proportion of P recommended in any literature. Is this particularly recommended for slippers? I'm afraid of any potential consequences of oversupplying P for other genera. TIA.


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## cnycharles (Mar 17, 2009)

I tried a paph bellatulum and a paph concolor in s/h, and the roots on both plants are gone, no new roots formed. Since reading that they both like hot conditions and this fall/winter it has been pretty cool in my apartment (and s/h culture can cool plants down a little) I'm sure the plants weren't growing or happy at all. I put one in some live sheet moss and the other is resting after being washed and then sprayed for mealybugs and will also go in sheet moss (live moss, just not sphagnum) to see if I can coax some roots back. The bellatulum was a three growth plant, but now two separate (and one dried up) growths.


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## SlipperKing (Mar 18, 2009)

paphioboy said:


> Thanks, Rick. Its just that I've never seen such a high proportion of P recommended in any literature. Is this particularly recommended for slippers? I'm afraid of any potential consequences of oversupplying P for other genera. TIA.


Remember Paphioboy I said Parvis not any of the rest. But I use to switch to a hight "P" in Sept every year for two months and then switch back. I think I had better blooming when I did that.


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## NYEric (Mar 18, 2009)

From Paul on lowii and haynaldianum - 
hello, 
in my little experience (2 years being growing them), they don't need limestone. They like to be watered with good water, not too hard water. They don't like to dry (I grow haynaldianum in pine bark + peat, lowii is in pure rockwool growcubes). They don't need high fertilizer rates. they grow under medium to quite high light (like Phals). They like temperate to warm climate (14-15°C min)
Lowii are bigger (25-30cm leaves) here than haynaldianum (20cm leaves).


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## Paul (Mar 18, 2009)

NYEric said:


> From Paul on lowii and haynaldianum -
> hello,
> in my little experience (2 years being growing them), they don't need limestone. They like to be watered with good water, not too hard water. They don't like to dry (I grow haynaldianum in pine bark + peat, lowii is in pure rockwool growcubes). They don't need high fertilizer rates. they grow under medium to quite high light (like Phals). They like temperate to warm climate (14-15°C min)
> Lowii are bigger (25-30cm leaves) here than haynaldianum (20cm leaves).



yep that's it!!
I find that haynaldianum needs (or tolerates) higher light than lowii. I hope to bloom these guys this year.


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## NYEric (Mar 18, 2009)

Thanx.


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## paphioboy (Mar 18, 2009)

> I tried a paph bellatulum and a paph concolor in s/h, and the roots on both plants are gone, no new roots formed. Since reading that they both like hot conditions and this fall/winter it has been pretty cool in my apartmen



charles, I beg to differ.. Concolor may be a warm grower but bellatulum prefers being kept intermediate/cool. Believe me, I've killed 3 bellatulums under 'hot' culture..


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## Eric Muehlbauer (Mar 18, 2009)

I have found the opposite....haynaldianum thrives under the same lighting that I give to Maudiae hybrids....lowii prefers higher light, but while it can take strong light, I find it doesn't need light as strong as, say, philipinense...Take care, Eric


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## Rick (Mar 19, 2009)

SlipperKing said:


> Acturally Elena "barking up a tree" is ironic in that tigrinum does grow in trees. Like it's cousins, lowii, dianthum. This is why I suggested basket culture for this species. The technique will allow fast draining, always moist conditions which is easy to check by the weight of the basket.



Not sure what you mean by "cousins" Rick. Lowii and parrishii are pardopetalums (multi florals), and tigrinum is a single floral subgenera, paphiopedilum (closer to villosum if you are looking for a more related and similar epiphytic species to compare too).

Also dianthum in Vietnam is usually not found in trees as opposed to it's close "cousin" parrishii in Burma.


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## Rick (Mar 19, 2009)

I could throw in on allot of these, but I think exul and druryii have done very well for me.

Both of these really like very bright and hot summer conditions. 90-100F is not a problem as long as the humidity is high, and light at 4000 to 5000fc is fine too.
Winter is cooler (high 50's low 60's). Humidity is still high, but watering is cut way back. During the summer they get light watering w/RO water every couple of days, with the heavy watering with fertilizer 1 day/week. 

I use the ANTEC basic CHC mix with a good amount of oyster shell in the mix, and course limestone gravel in the bottom of the pots.

I fertilize with MSU 1X/week just about year round, but may skip random weeks during the winter. I usually add a dash of Superthrive and Protek (to balance the pH) to the fertilizer mix.


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## cnycharles (Mar 20, 2009)

paphioboy said:


> charles, I beg to differ.. Concolor may be a warm grower but bellatulum prefers being kept intermediate/cool. Believe me, I've killed 3 bellatulums under 'hot' culture..



the culture sheet I have for bellatulum shows average temperatures, and in winter the day temps qualify as nearly hot to hot, but the big thing is that the night temperatures are definitely cold! it's one that needs the big temp swing and cold at night to save up the energy. someone else here pointed out that they will fade if kept constantly warm, so they probabaly would do better if cool but likely depending on your growing conditions (or mine), a spot somewhere warm to cool would do best. doing s/h for me hasn't been all that great since for a large period of time my temps are decidedly lukewarm (for many plants) with very little temperature swing. if I could have kept them cold but very bright then they may have done better


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## kentuckiense (Mar 20, 2009)

Anyone have a good online source for that 10-52-10 fertilizer?


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## cnycharles (Mar 20, 2009)

lowes sells a version of 'better gro' orchid bloom booster 11-35-15 plus essential minor elements, made by the sun bulb company that has chelated zinc and manganese at .05% levels no urea and 40/60 nitrate to ammoniacal nitrogen. i add it to some of my calmag seedling fertilizer that is low in p

I did a check and found that if you want exact 10-52-10 you're looking at 25-50 pound bags of professional fertilizer which will run you at least $40 or more for one bag especially if you get around to adding shipping. Many of the store versions (even Jacks Peters brand) that sell in smaller quantities have the sort of formulation as above (10-30-10 in general). There is a fertilizer called triple super phosphate that has like 40-60% phosphorus and no n or k; it is pretty cheap as far as large bags go, could add some regular fertilizer to it to bring up to 10-50-10. You will be laying out quite a bit of cash to get a large bag of the pro mix. Brands of pro fert mix include blackmore, jacks peters, plantex, scotts; often called 'starter fertilizer'


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## kentuckiense (Mar 20, 2009)

Thanks for the leads. I checked out several stores today and none had anything even approaching that ratio. On the bright side, I picked up a big bag of pelleted limestone at the Tractor Supply Store.


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## cnycharles (Mar 20, 2009)

yeah, the tractor supply store around here has lots of stuff and pretty cheap. I can look at work and see if we have starter fertilizer with that high p and see if the manager would allow some to be borrowed... there are a bunch of open bags that have been around for a while (if the labels are still legible that is)


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## kentuckiense (Mar 20, 2009)

Well, if you manage to pull it off, send me a PM. I'll keep looking around. I'm just trying to gear up for giving armeniacum, my arch nemesis, another try.


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## cnycharles (Mar 21, 2009)

I checked today and it doesn't look like we have any of that starter fertilizer. I talked to my supervisor who said they had tried to use up most of the oddball things in one way or another, so it doesn't look like we have any of it available. Unless you can find someone who also works somewhere that uses large bags of fertilizer and might have some of that type, it might be more likely you'll find the more common ones similar to the 10-30-10ish


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## kentuckiense (Mar 21, 2009)

Thanks for checking on it. I'll keep checking around. I feel a bit better now that I've applied pelletized limestone and replaced my fluoro fixture that kept failing. I didn't give any limestone to delenatii hybrids. I seem to recall someone (Eric M.?) saying that's how they did it.


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## goldenrose (Apr 6, 2009)

armeniacum:

delenatii: Bark (to me, var. album needs sponge rock or other draining component), 10-52-10 fertiliser, warm, medium light

emersonii:

hangianum: temperate-warm, quite low light, always keep wet so well drained medium (rockwool for me), and ... dithane a few times each year. Leaves must be apple green, calcareous

jackii: 10-52-10, low light, temperate, humid but well drained

malipoense: as for jackii

micranthum: var. album is easier to grow for me, 10-52-10, medium light

vietnamense: medium light, warm summer, temperate winter, well drained medium but keep wet

[thaianum:] small pots, very well drained: lava rock (small) + composted crushed branches, 10-52-10

bellatulum: very well drained medium, small pots, high vented aera, quite high light, temperate to warm, calcareous

concolor: higher light than bellatulum, warmer

godefroyae: medium light, hot growing

niveum: as for godefroyae

barbigerum:

boxalii:

charlesworthii: temperate, never dry

druryi: high light, hot summers, osmocote (slow release fertiliser)

exul:


Rick said:


> Mine blooms every year, often beginning to spike in January. I think its allot like druryii liking high temps and high light. Plenty of oystershell and bone meal.




fairrieanum:

gratrixianum:

helenae: -small pots, well drained, high light.
-heleanae grows equally well for me in bark mix or straight dyna-rok. hermannii, in my limited experience(with 1 plant), is more susceptable to rot than helenae, so be more careful with watering.
- use a mix of bark & charcol, and a little perlite or sponge rock if it is available. Particle size 1/8 to 1/4 inch. I top dress with about 1/2 teaspoon of oystershell for a 2 1/2 x 4 inch tall pot. I keep mine fairly moist, watering every 3 to 5 days, but I also use screens when making my mix to make sure my media is open. I sift the mix to get rid of the fines and dust. This preserves the air voids. I fertilize continuously (every watering) with 1/2 teaspoon per gallon MSU fertilizer. Light is bright shade, about 800 foot candles, under 4 tubes, 40 watt cool white, the leaves are withing 5 inches of the tubes. It is 2 cheap shop light fixtures, side by side hanging over the shelf. Lights on 16 hours per day. 
__________________



henryanum:

hermanii: same as helenae

hirsutissimum:

insigne:

spicerianum:

tigrinum:

tranlienianum:

villosum: medium light, intermediate temps, mine doesn't dry out, bark mix, good air circulation

acmodontum:

appletonianum:

argus:

barbatum:

bullenianum:

callosum:

ciliolare:

curtsii:

dayanum:

fowliei:

hennisianum:

hookerae:

javanicum:

lawrenceanum:

mastersianum:

purpuratum:

sangii: rain water, very low salts, low light, humid, temperate or cool

schoseri:

sukhakulii: low light, easy to grow, rain water is better

superbiens:

tonsum:

urbanianum:

venustum:

violascens:

virens:

wardii: med - low light, intermediate temps

wolterianum:

adductum: composted crushed branches + inorganic component (lava rock or other), warm, medium light

dianthum: medium light, temperate, easy to grow

glanduliferum:

haynaldianum:

kolopakingii: temperate-warm, medium light, slow release fertiliser, well drained medium

lowii:

parishii:

philippinense: warm to hot, humid, high light, slow release fertiliser

platyphyllum: as for kolopakingii

randsii: fern roots (Asplenium, Osmunda, tree ferns ... ) in pots. Never repot (if possible lol)

richardianum:

rothschildianum: warm, high light, well drained pots, slow release fertiliser

sanderianum: warm to hot, very humid and shady, calcareous, well drained medium

stonei: warm to hot, as for roths

supardii:

wilhelminae: high light

chamberlianum:

glaucophyllum:

liemianum:

moquetteanum:

primulinum:

victor-mariae:

victor-reginae:


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## Stone (Dec 10, 2014)

NYEric said:


> OK, I said I'd do this so..
> I'm posting a list of Paph species and I'd like to get growers' inputs on requirements [even if based on rumor] fro successfull growing. The categories I'd like to see addressed are: temperature, light, watering, fertilizer, pot size, media and mineral additives, air flow, and any seasonal changes recommended.
> 
> armeniacum:
> ...



I was looking up something and came across this...and some tried to answer.. :rollhappy:


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## NYEric (Dec 11, 2014)

OK, 
rungsuriyaunum - Not too wet!


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## Parryaw (Dec 11, 2014)

I'm guessing you must have lost that rungsuriyanum then?


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## NYEric (Dec 11, 2014)

Lost what? :ninja:


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