# Are aircone pots worth the $



## Jim Toomey (May 20, 2009)

Hi,
Does the air cone pots make any difference in growth, health?
Worth the extra$ ?


http://www.gardeningwarehousedirect.com/prod_images_blowup/CT_AP21.gif

Thanks,
Jim T


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## NYEric (May 20, 2009)

Supposedly you get more air flow so I'd say yes.


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## emydura (May 20, 2009)

I know in most of my Paphs the root growth is basically only along the sides of the pot. I could see this would help to get roots to grow through the centre of the mix.

David


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## Hien (May 20, 2009)

NYEric said:


> Supposedly you get more air flow so I'd say yes.


 
-The material is 3 to 4 times thicker than the normal pots, very sturdy.
-The air cone would bring the air to the middle of the mix so less roots' rot. More so for big pots.
(I just hate that the edges & corners are so sharp)


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## cnycharles (May 20, 2009)

I use them and am happy, and they can be used many times over


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## Heather (May 21, 2009)

I love them!!! Also, you can fit more square pots in a space than round! :clap:


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## john mickel (May 21, 2009)

*Pots*

Ray knew what he was dueing - there are no down sides to this pot - if you don't like the clear - they came in 2 - 3 more colors -john


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## nikv (May 21, 2009)

I've started using them with Paphs and Phrags. My other orchids are still in good ol' fir bark mix in regular pots.


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## NYEric (May 21, 2009)

Hien said:


> - (I just hate that the edges & corners are so sharp)



Why, are you a hemopheliac?!


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## Hien (May 21, 2009)

NYEric said:


> Why, are you a hemopheliac?!



Nope, but I think skinny peoples like me have the nerves' ending so close to the skin surface, which make them so sensitive to pain & pleasure.


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## NYEric (May 21, 2009)




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## Jim Toomey (May 21, 2009)

What is your favorite source for air cone pots?
Thanks again for your replies.

P.S.
I changed my signature today from AHAB to Jim Toomey.


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## Scott Ware (May 21, 2009)

Jim Toomey said:


> What is your favorite source for air cone pots?
> Thanks again for your replies.



I get mine from Kelley's Korner at http://www.kkorchid.com
They give quantity discounts and great service.




Jim Toomey said:


> P.S.
> I changed my signature today from AHAB to Jim Toomey.



Wow! Did you know that there is a world famous Florida-based photojournalist by the same name?!


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## Jim Toomey (May 21, 2009)

Thanks Scott, I'll try them.

You know I think I have heard of him. Isn't he just some crazy teacher, who shoots weddings on the weekends.
You know, no respectable photographer shoots weddings, that's just for hacks. LOL
The other jim Toomey


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## paphioland (May 22, 2009)

I strongly dislike aircone pots. I have stopped using them. I would rather use an open mix in a deeper pot that gets thinner at the base. Aircone pots do not allow the water to back up and wet the mix thoroughly. I think mix and proper watering is the key to getting air to the roots.


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## Jim Toomey (May 22, 2009)

Can you post your airier mix here?
Thanks
Jim t


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## Heather (May 22, 2009)

Scott Ware said:


> I get mine from Kelley's Korner at http://www.kkorchid.com
> They give quantity discounts and great service.



That's where I got mine too, Ulla, the owner, is on the board of my orchid society - she is GREAT! Tell her I sent you if you decided to order. !


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## SlipperKing (May 22, 2009)

Paphioland is right when he or she says proper mix and watering is the key to good air in the root zone. I have used aircones for the past 20 years or so. With their unique design, you must be able to supply lots and lots of water in order to "flood" the pots. Pour on the water until the mix(bark type mix) begins to float then you can stop watering. This technique of watering allows air to be "pulled" into the pot as the water rushes out the bottom. This technique of watering is how you should water any orchid regardless of the type of pot. Air cones just takes more water to do this.


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## Ray (May 22, 2009)

Some folks invert a small net pot in the bottom of the pot to achieve the same thing as an air-cone.


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## paphioland (May 22, 2009)

SlipperKing said:


> Paphioland is right when he or she says proper mix and watering is the key to good air in the root zone. I have used aircones for the past 20 years or so. With their unique design, you must be able to supply lots and lots of water in order to "flood" the pots. Pour on the water until the mix(bark type mix) begins to float then you can stop watering. This technique of watering allows air to be "pulled" into the pot as the water rushes out the bottom. This technique of watering is how you should water any orchid regardless of the type of pot. Air cones just takes more water to do this.



yup couldn't agree more. And the narrow pot at the bottom also helps achieve this.


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## Jim Toomey (May 22, 2009)

Thanks everyone!

Hi Rick,
Wow, 20 years that is very telling that you still are using the same product!

Can you share your potting mix ingrediants with us ?
Ratios?
I water heavily, then go back and water a second time, helps with wetting & absorbing, & seems likely to help leach out any accmulated salts.
Thanks again everyone,
Jim T


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## NYEric (May 22, 2009)

Man, it must be nice to have time to double water. I know Terry Root suggested this but most time I'm too hurried to do it consistently.


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## Jim Toomey (May 22, 2009)

Not whining (really) but I get up at 5-5:30 AM to water.
If I don't get up before my son (or wife for that matter) it doesn't get done.
It is really enjoyable to get out there first thing in the morning.
I have a small floodlight out there.
Jim


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## Jim Toomey (May 22, 2009)

On the other hand Eric, I don't have anywhere near as large as a collection as you do either... 
With that large of a collection I imagine it does take quite a bit of time...
Jim T


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## Jim Toomey (Jun 15, 2009)

*John, where do you get...*

Hey John where do you get different colors aircone pots from?

"Ray knew what he was dueing - there are no down sides to this pot - if you don't like the clear - they came in 2 - 3 more colors -john"

Thanks,
Jim


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## Jim Toomey (Jun 15, 2009)

Where can I get trays to hold the aircone pots?
The 2 & 2 1/2 seems like they would tip over when watering.
Thanks again,
Jim


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## NYEric (Jun 16, 2009)

I don't see why unless your pushing too much force while watering?!?


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## Jim Toomey (Jun 16, 2009)

Hey Eric,
I haven't gotten the aircone pots yet, (just ordered a bunch from KK), but I would like to keep them all straight in the trays though, I was just thinking that they MIGHT tip over...

Soooo any leads for trays?
Jim


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## suss16 (Jun 16, 2009)

Jim...

For me, I use the 4" aircones. I does not make sense to me to use the smaller ones, I prefer the 2.25" standard pot. Most seedlings only stay in there for only a year or so...

But if you did get the 2.5" aircone, they fit perfectly in kord 3" trays.

http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/Kord-Carrying-Trays-Hobby-Pack/productinfo/CN-TRKHP/


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## Jim Toomey (Jun 16, 2009)

Hey Suss16,
Thank you very much!
That is what I was looking for... 

However, I've already ordered many 2" aircone pots already... 
any trays that fit the 2" aircone pots? 

When I buy seedlings from growers that is one of the sizes I see most often, so I ordered that size for my seedlings.

I have a bunch of compots that are getting to the size that they need to be moved out into pots... so that's why I ordered that size.

Got another question for you, have you used the 4" Kord trays for your 4" aircone pots or does the 4.5" fit better?
Thanks again!
Jim


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## suss16 (Jun 16, 2009)

I have not tried the 4" aircone in 4" Kord trays - but don't believe they will fit. Aircone pots have very square edges from top to bottom. The other clear pots I order taper a bit and fit in the trays. I am sure Ulla will modify your order if it has not shipped. I order from them also. It's all about experimenting and finding out what works for you. 

I believe the 2" aircones will fit in these trays - but not as snug as the 2.5" pots.


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## Rick (Jun 16, 2009)

Hien said:


> -The material is 3 to 4 times thicker than the normal pots, very sturdy.
> -The air cone would bring the air to the middle of the mix so less roots' rot. More so for big pots.
> (I just hate that the edges & corners are so sharp)



The "sharp" corners are harder to clean crud out of.

But I've been using them (not exclusively though) since 2002, and like them allot for all the reasons stated except the sharp corners.


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## suss16 (Jun 16, 2009)

I wash them in the dishwasher (when my wife is not home) and soak overnight in a 10% bleach soln overnight. That does the trick for me.


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## Jim Toomey (Jun 23, 2009)

Got my order of Aircone pots from KK's, man they are sturdy!

Thanks to all that recommended them!

I've started potting up my compots into individual pots, I've got bunches to do, but it is very enjoyable to pot up these husky little plants!
Plug in some great tunes and I'm in orchid heaven!
Jim


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## Toddster63 (Jun 30, 2009)

As you stated, Jim, they are sturdy aren't they? They make almost all other plastic pots look like they are made of typing paper.

As stated they are trickier to water, but I think it's worth it. Though I do have a smaller collection and hand water each plant...

I also hate the gap between their 3" and 4"models—it's really a noticable leap in size, and it always seems like a 3.5" Aircone would fit the slipper I am potting, I swear...!


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## Scott Ware (Jun 30, 2009)

Toddster63 said:


> I also hate the gap between their 3" and 4"models—it's really a noticable leap in size, and it always seems like a 3.5" Aircone would fit the slipper I am potting, I swear...!



We used to go round and round with Ray trying to get him to produce additional pot sizes. 

Now that you mention it, I agree that a 3.5" pot WOULD be a nice addition, but so far that has never been as much a problem for me as it was for all those years when there was no 5" pot. 

Quantum leap in potting mix consumption notwithstanding, you had to be really careful jumping from the 4" pot to the 6" pot because it could easily result in an overpotted plant that would find itself going from that 6" pot down to a 3" pot at the next repotting and then pouting for years to recover. Ray's point of view was that the molds were so expensive he was just wasn't sure he could ever sell enough of the new size pots to recover costs. 

I'm very thankful to whoever decided to go ahead and produce the 5" pot - I am pretty sure I have done my fair share to help recover the cost of THAT mold!


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## Delego (Jun 30, 2009)

I use these for types that are considered more air loving and found that they are happy as can be. I was just hoping to find a source that was more cheaper.


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## Toddster63 (Jul 1, 2009)

I had forgotten about the 5" being fairly new, Scott... I do remember that jump from 4" to 6", how HUGE the 6" was. I agree that the 5" was a nice addition...!


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## NYEric (Jul 1, 2009)

Toddster, welcome from NYC!


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## cnycharles (Jul 1, 2009)

Scott Ware said:


> Quantum leap in potting mix consumption notwithstanding, you had to be really careful jumping from the 4" pot to the 6" pot because it could easily result in an overpotted plant that would find itself going from that 6" pot down to a 3" pot at the next repotting and then pouting for years to recover.



boy, I've had my share of large phal species that were growing fast and I moved them from a four inch pot to a six inch one, that I had tried my best to make enough air space in the bottom center to try and keep them from getting too wet, but the plants had terrible setbacks (one favorite being dead). I guess maybe just keeping them in four inch pots (maybe now using 5" ones...) and let new roots just grow outside the pot...


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## Scott Ware (Jul 1, 2009)

Charles,

I'm having great success growing phals in 5" aircone pots that might never have made a happy transition from the 4" to a 6" pot. 

It's a good idea to keep in mind what Hien mentioned early in the thread about the edges and corners of these pots. You probably already have observed that these large pots have sharp corners in just the right location where if a large, succulent phal leaf rests on a corner it can cause mechanical damage that can result in infection or rot. On the other hand, I have a smilar problem with circular clay pots because they are so damp for quite some time after watering at the point of contact and can also cause issues with rot.

In both cases I cushion the edges and corners where the leaves of my phals rest on the edges of the pots with an "S" shaped styrofoam packing peanut. It locks right into place and insulates the point of contact from the edge of the pot.


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## Jim Toomey (Jul 1, 2009)

Hey Scott,
Any harm in using a piece of charcoal?

I have recently been using small pieces of (new) charcoal to hold up the leaves of small seedlings that has a bottom leaf that curls down and sticks into the potting mix.
Jim T


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## Scott Ware (Jul 2, 2009)

Jim,

I was talking about when the leaf hangs OVER the edge of the pot and rests on the sharp edge or corner of the plastic pot. Sometimes it can develop a "wound" through vibration and air movement that gets worse and can even kill the plant if an infection results.

I think what you're asking is what to do when a leaf falls just a little short of the pot wall and doesn't make it over the edge of the pot and grows down toward the mix instead? Sure - I would try using a piece charcoal if it doesn't have a lot of sharp edges to damage the plant tissue, or bark or even a styro peanut _(my mom calls 'em "angel farts" :noangel: )_ - but if this is a small seedling I would also try to make sure there wasn't a lot of upward pressure on the plant that might slowly force it out of the mix. You just gotta be creative and figure out what works the best for you.


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## NYEric (Jul 2, 2009)

Scott Ware said:


> _(my mom calls 'em "angel farts" :noangel: )_



Yes, but she's one of ours! :evil:


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## Jim Toomey (Jul 7, 2009)

Does anyone put additional holes into their Aircone pots?

I'm thinking about adding one on each side about halfway up the pot.

Thoughts?


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## NYEric (Jul 7, 2009)

Wow, someone has a lot of time on their hands! Hey Jim, did you finish those benches yet!? oke:


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## Scott Ware (Jul 7, 2009)

Jim Toomey said:


> Does anyone put additional holes into their Aircone pots?
> 
> I'm thinking about adding one on each side about halfway up the pot.
> 
> Thoughts?


 
I've never perforated these pots beyond their original design for slippers, but I have put holes about 3/4" from the top edge of 6" aircone pots to convert them to hanging pots.

Ok - you asked for "thoughts." I end up sacrificing a lot of pots whenever good healthy roots that I want to preserve grow through the drainage holes and I can't get 'em back through the slots without damage to the roots. This probably isn't necessary but I would still rather cut away a dollar pot from a hundred dollar plant and take a new pot out of the box. I suppose it is possible that additional drainage holes higher up might provide new places for roots to exit the pot - probably more likely in non-slipper varieties such as catts and phals.

If you don't hear back from anyone with direct experience, you might get some enjoyment out of experimenting with some of your ideas in small quantities just to see what the results might be. 

Oh yeah - and build some decent benches for heaven's sake.


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## Heather (Jul 7, 2009)

I used to put additional holes in my aircones. Used a 1/4" drill bit. Depending on the size of the pot, 1-3 holes per side. It probably helped with drainage a bit. Nice for hanging phal. species also.


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## NYEric (Jul 7, 2009)

Scott Ware said:


> Oh yeah - and build some decent benches for heaven's sake.



Yes, another one corrupted! :evil:


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## Jim Toomey (Jul 7, 2009)

OK, OK, Eric... and Scott,
I'll try to attach a photo of my first bench attempt...￼ about 20' x 6'.

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww305/orchidjim/bench2.jpg
http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww305/orchidjim/bench3.jpg







Shown without light panel that covers the roofing panel.






I used the clear corrugated roofing panels under the "egg crate" lighting panels, boards, with sawhorses to hold it all up. The run off water flows off the to far end, which will eventually have a short gutter attached and running just to the ground to keep the water from splashing.
The reason I did this is so I can put my seedlings under the bench without them being dripped on.
It works well and keeps every thing dry, and it has pretty nice light there as well.

The next revision will have the boards with the narrow edge up for much better support.

I used a cheap soldering iron to put holes in about halfway up the sides on a few pots to see if it does any good. Maybe it is a waste of time, we'll see.


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## NYEric (Jul 7, 2009)

Good idea w/ the clear panels to have the light go thru; also put some holes on the edge so you can put hanging plants! I don't think the extra holes will be a waste of time, it will allow more air flow as you remember from Terry Root's talk!


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## Jim Toomey (Jul 7, 2009)

Thanks Eric!
Good idea about the hanging plants
Funny, I just reviewing my notes from that talk today!


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## NYEric (Jul 7, 2009)

_"Wise men learn from wise men!" _- NYEric


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## Jim Toomey (Nov 9, 2009)

Well, several months later, I have to say i am very glad I switched
over to the bark and aircone pots. The roots have taken off!
I must admit that I really get a kick at picking up the pots
and looking at the root growth.
Does anyone else like to do that?
The pots are very sturdy and the plants are really putting out the roots.
I have repotted just about everything except my oncidiums and
some of my phrags & cats that really thrive in S/H.
If you have not tried the Rand aircone pot pick up a few and see
if your plants perform better.
Mine have.


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