# Cycnoches warscewiczii



## Happypaphy7 (Dec 7, 2016)

First time blooming seedling.
I bought it with two spikes initiated, but they blasted during the shipping.
One bud survived on this spike and it is open.

The flower is rather big with about 6in width, but the fragrance is very weak.

I'm looking forward to next year's performance.


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## SlipperFan (Dec 7, 2016)

That is cool.


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## Dandrobium (Dec 7, 2016)

Wow, that is a big flower! Very nice!!


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## NYEric (Dec 7, 2016)

Nice, thanks for sharing.


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## John M (Dec 7, 2016)

What a spectacularly handsome flower!!! I LOVE this!!!


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## blondie (Dec 8, 2016)

Very nice I always like this group of orchids but I always struggled with red spider mite attacks on them. Very nice flower with great potential


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## naoki (Dec 8, 2016)

Pretty cool!


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## Happypaphy7 (Dec 8, 2016)

blondie said:


> Very nice I always like this group of orchids but I always struggled with red spider mite attacks on them. Very nice flower with great potential



If you look at the first photo, you can see spider mite damage on the back of that leaf.

I bought a few of different crosses earlier this year, and about half of them came with spider mites on the back of the leaves.
I wiped them off with wet flat cotton ball for wiping face. It works great to eliminate these bugs from the surface of the leaf underside.
You want to apply a gentle pressure to do a good job because the underside of these plants are not flat but veins make grooves in between them where some bugs might be left off even after wiping off, if not done carefully.

Then, you want to repeat this again in a few days to catch new hatchlings or ones that were missed the previous treatment.

I find them very easy to get rid of, and once you do, at least for me, I don't ever see them again. It's always on the new plants, and you deal with them right after you purchase, then all is good.


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## John M (Dec 8, 2016)

Horticultural oil - 10 to 15 ml per litre of water, once a month, does a great job of destroying mites and keeping them away. Plus, it's fast and easy to apply and it's non-toxic, being just a very fine grade of mineral oil (97 to 99% with an emulsifier 1 to 3%). Do NOT use it at more than 15 ml per litre and do not use it really often. Too much and it can clog the stomata on the plant leaves. Used once or twice (a couple days apart), on new plants that are infested is all that's needed. Then, once a month for maintenance, in environments (warm and dry), that favour mite infestations.

Also, don't use regular mineral oil from a Pharmacy. It is too thick and not meant for this application. The Pharmacy stuff can quickly damage foliage.

I never use chemical miticides because Horticultural Oil does such a good job.


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## AdamD (Dec 8, 2016)

Very nice! 'Tis the season. 6" on a first bloom is rather impressive. Since the other two buds blasted I wonder if that helped this bloom reach its potential. I can't wait to see this one next year.


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## Migrant13 (Dec 8, 2016)

Such a beautiful flower in all respects. This is a fantastic species.


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## Happypaphy7 (Dec 9, 2016)

John M said:


> Horticultural oil - 10 to 15 ml per litre of water, once a month, does a great job of destroying mites and keeping them away. Plus, it's fast and easy to apply and it's non-toxic, being just a very fine grade of mineral oil (97 to 99% with an emulsifier 1 to 3%). Do NOT use it at more than 15 ml per litre and do not use it really often. Too much and it can clog the stomata on the plant leaves. Used once or twice (a couple days apart), on new plants that are infested is all that's needed. Then, once a month for maintenance, in environments (warm and dry), that favour mite infestations.
> 
> Also, don't use regular mineral oil from a Pharmacy. It is too thick and not meant for this application. The Pharmacy stuff can quickly damage foliage.
> 
> I never use chemical miticides because Horticultural Oil does such a good job.



Do you find horticultural oil milder than neem oil?
I have tried neem oil based spray, insecticidal soap spray, sulfur based 3-in-1 type spray, "natural" spray containing a bunch of oil like garlic oil, peppermint oil,...all of them nearly killed my Paphiopedilums.
I remember Cattleya turning yellow and dry. I threw away them all at the end.

So, I'm never buying those again. Trauma was too much both on my plants and me.


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## John M (Dec 9, 2016)

Happypaphy7 said:


> Do you find horticultural oil milder than neem oil?
> I have tried neem oil based spray, insecticidal soap spray, sulfur based 3-in-1 type spray, "natural" spray containing a bunch of oil like garlic oil, peppermint oil,...all of them nearly killed my Paphiopedilums.
> I remember Cattleya turning yellow and dry. I threw away them all at the end.
> 
> So, I'm never buying those again. Trauma was too much both on my plants and me.



I've never used Neem; but, I've heard plenty of bad things, like you report. I've never use any of the other things you mention, either. Horticultural oil says on the label it's okay to use when the plants are "in growth"....eg: when they have foliage. It's not just for use as a dormant spray. However, one person I recommended it to went out and bought a combo oil and sulfer dormant spray and they did a huge amount of damage. Do not combine hort oil with anything if you're spraying foliage or flowers. The recommendated dose on the label is 10 ml per litre. I usually use a little more; but, NOT over 15 ml per litre. I've seen serious damage to plants that were treated with higher doses and/or, treated over and over and over in a short period of time. I've never had any damage whatsoever on any plants at the 10 to 15 ml per litre. I have heard that Dendrobium cuthbertsonii is sensitive; but, I've not tried it on that species myself.


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## Happypaphy7 (Dec 9, 2016)

Thanks. 

The product I see at stores here are ready to use spray horticultural oil. 
I forgot the %. I'm just worried about burning. 
I guess might as well order concentrate online and mix it myself. 

So you don't have any issues with horticultural oil on your plants?


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## John M (Dec 9, 2016)

Happypaphy7 said:


> So you don't have any issues with horticultural oil on your plants?



No issues.

Google: "Green Earth Horticultural Oil". That's what I use.


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## Happypaphy7 (Dec 9, 2016)

Alright, I'll have a look. 
Thanks.


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## Happypaphy7 (Dec 11, 2016)

Today it is very fragrant!!! 

Btw, does anyone know what the black blemish in the green center of the flower?
Ok, I'll post a close up later.


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## Happypaphy7 (Dec 11, 2016)

The black area was much smaller at first, and a few days later now, it is bigger.

I looked at SVO's pictures and one of their clone had this black area too.

I just hope it is not a sign of something. ahem. v...


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## AdamD (Dec 11, 2016)

I'd say most likely it is the first sign that the flower is fading. The spot that is turning, when the flower is freshly opened, resembles the gills on the underside of mushrooms. It is where the flowers scent is concentrated. So it would make sense that the smell is most intense just as it is starting to turn.


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## Happypaphy7 (Dec 11, 2016)

But the flower opened just three days ago.


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## John M (Dec 12, 2016)

They don't last very long.


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## Happypaphy7 (Dec 12, 2016)

Is this species particularly short lived??
I mean a few days? 

All the Cycnodes and cycnoches I've had lasted a few weeks, which I thought was too short. lol


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## John M (Dec 12, 2016)

"A few weeks"???? I've never heard of a Cycnoches or Cycnodes or Catasetum who's blooms lasted 3 weeks! In my experience, you're lucky to get 7 days. 10 days is pretty good. Over that is rare.


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## AdamD (Dec 12, 2016)

Yes over a week fully opened without fading would be unusual for a male cycnoches or catasetum. More like 2-3 days. From what I understand the trigger mechanism takes a heavy toll on flower life. Plus, in nature they usually get pollinated (vigorously) fairly quickly after opening. Flower longevity just isn't in the genes. 

Now cycnodes is a different ball game. The Mormodes parent imparts perfect (male and female) floral segments, which are much more stable. They also lack a trigger. Much longer lived.


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## Happypaphy7 (Dec 12, 2016)

Hmmm I was going to buy more, but now I'll have to think about it then. lol

Ok, so as Adam says, Cycnodes lasts for a while. 
My Wine Delight last 3-4 weeks. 
I had Cycnodes Golden Shower which last nearly one month. 

My Cycnoches Seven Fold ( genetic make up is warscewiczii, cooperi, barthiorum) male flowers last 3 weeks and female flowers over one month. 
I thought that was the norm. Maybe one of the species involved has long lasting flowers? I don't know. I should ask SVO.


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## AdamD (Dec 12, 2016)

I guess I should preface that by saying these have been my experiences under my conditions. My cycnodes lasted about 3-4 weeks as well. My Cyc cooperii lasted about a week (or about two weeks from when the bud peeked open to when the flower fell). Ctsms. are about 10 days from bud opening to flower falling. I have lots of light, air movement and humidity working against me though.


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## Happypaphy7 (Dec 15, 2016)

Just an update. 
The flower opened last Monday, 5th, and it is still fresh with very strong perfume today!  
The black area has grown much larger, though! lol


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## Happypaphy7 (Dec 15, 2016)

AdamD said:


> I guess I should preface that by saying these have been my experiences under my conditions. My cycnodes lasted about 3-4 weeks as well. My Cyc cooperii lasted about a week (or about two weeks from when the bud peeked open to when the flower fell). Ctsms. are about 10 days from bud opening to flower falling. I have lots of light, air movement and humidity working against me though.



Adam- I grow indoor and in the cold months like now, the humidity does fall very low. I really want to add Catasetum pileatum (sp?) white variety, whose flowers last for short time, but they do flower a couple of times a year, right?


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## AdamD (Dec 16, 2016)

Yes when mature they can flower 4 times a year or so. I don't think you'd be disappointed.


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## Happypaphy7 (Dec 16, 2016)

Alright, thanks for the input.


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