# Paph. anitum deflasked in pictures



## orchideya (Apr 19, 2015)

Wish me luck please. Also comments and advices are highly appreciated.
I put them in shaded corner with no direct light. Also I peeled bottom brown leaves, hope it was ok.


----------



## Justin (Apr 19, 2015)

looking good!


----------



## Ozpaph (Apr 19, 2015)

they should do well in there - make sure water doesnt drip into the growth (crown) from the plants above.


----------



## Justin (Apr 19, 2015)

the leaves look like they are still very soft so be careful. 

this is when deflasking with agar-on is preferable when the plants are so tender.


----------



## AdamD (Apr 19, 2015)

Good luck! Looks like you have a good start. They do look so tender and vulnerable. Where did they come from?


----------



## AdamD (Apr 19, 2015)

Nevermind. Just saw the other post.


----------



## 17andgrowing (Apr 19, 2015)

Good luck.


----------



## tomkalina (Apr 19, 2015)

Warm and humid w/o a lot of direct watering should work.......


----------



## Paphman910 (Apr 19, 2015)

Seedling looks nice and green. The root system is small on them. 

They are slow grower and good luck!


----------



## abax (Apr 19, 2015)

Orchideya, you'll do well. I know you will because you're
brave. I think they look healthy with those brown leaves
off. Sending good vibes!


----------



## Bjorn (Apr 20, 2015)

Good Luck! I have remains of a flask that has been sitting there for the last three years or so. Never found out how to treat those guys! (but managed to kill most of them:evil:


----------



## orchideya (Apr 20, 2015)

Thank you everybody for your comments and advices.
The leaves do feel very soft, so I am trying not to touch them at all.
It is humid in the tank, about 80% RH, but temps are hovering at 20 - 22C , not too warm, because tank is in the basement. It should become warmer in summer, hopefully.
According to H.Koopowitz book - overgrown seedlings are slower to start after deflasking, so I am prepared for them doing nothing for a long while.
I took a look this morning - they still are green and perky, I guess it will be my routine from now on - to check on them every morning.


----------



## Paphman910 (Apr 20, 2015)

Good luck on the seedlings. Check this post:

http://www.slippertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35649&highlight=tigrinum+flask

If you could get a hold of this product, you should try it out on the anitums.


----------



## polyantha (Apr 20, 2015)

Very nice! Anitum is a great species, hopefully there will be some left in situ for the next generations  One of my motherplants is blooming in a month and I will try to make some seed and produce some flasks in the lab.


----------



## Migrant13 (Apr 20, 2015)

Good luck. Judging from the care you took with potting them up and the health of the rest of your plants in the photo, you'll do just fine!


----------



## Stone (Apr 20, 2015)

The first month is the tricky part. Good lick with them. Lick? I mean luck.....


----------



## orchideya (Apr 21, 2015)

Thanks!
Paphman910, I checked the link, apparently the company that produces it is in Montreal. I filled the request form on their website, hopefully I will be able to get it.
Did you try it on your anitums?


----------



## Paphman910 (Apr 21, 2015)

orchideya said:


> Thanks!
> Paphman910, I checked the link, apparently the company that produces it is in Montreal. I filled the request form on their website, hopefully I will be able to get it.
> Did you try it on your anitums?



No, most of my anitum looked like your seedling but they started to rot from the base. Same thing happened to my tigrinum flask and I came upon this thread on ST. You should give it a try because they are so prone to ewirnia.


----------



## SlipperFan (Apr 21, 2015)

They look great! Good luck growing them up!


----------



## Wendy (Apr 22, 2015)

Wonderful seedlings....I hope you do well with them.


----------



## orchideya (Apr 23, 2015)

Thank you Dot and Wendy.

Well, I didn't get any reply on my request about that Inocucor. If anybody knows how to get it in Canada, please let me know.


----------



## Paphman910 (Apr 23, 2015)

orchideya said:


> Thank you Dot and Wendy.
> 
> Well, I didn't get any reply on my request about that Inocucor. If anybody knows how to get it in Canada, please let me know.



I did not get a reply either! Maybe go to hydroponic shop and see what they got.


----------



## Happypaphy7 (Apr 23, 2015)

Good luck!
How long is it expected before they reach mature size?
I know this is a very slow species.


----------



## orchideya (Apr 24, 2015)

Happypaphy7 said:


> Good luck!
> How long is it expected before they reach mature size?
> I know this is a very slow species.


Thank you.
From what I read everywhere - couple decades maybe. If you can keep them alive of course...


----------



## Happypaphy7 (Apr 24, 2015)

twenty years!!!


----------



## polyantha (Apr 25, 2015)

New growths on multigrowth plants can rech FS in 4-5 years, which is pretty slow already. But nothing compared to rising them up from seed where you will have to wait 15 years as I was told by a Taiwan grower. But don't forget that roths took almost the same time before ppl started to propagate and cross them for flower quality and vigor. The fastest roths at the moment are around 4.5 years, so most likely the anitums will become easier to grow and keep alive very soon. I have an anitum that is very vigorous for example compared to the others and it is growing almost twice as fast. It will bloom more often and the most vigorous progenies will bloom first, get pollinated, produce fast progenies and so on...


----------



## orchideya (Apr 27, 2015)

Well. I am on my way to destroying them. Yesterday the large phal that was creating shade turned over right on the tray with seedlings. At least 4 plantlets had their leaves broken and badly bruised. I sprinkled damages with cinnamon, but they will probably die. Damn it...


----------



## orchideya (Jun 23, 2015)

Just un update on my anitum flask. Count is still 16, so they did survive the crash of phalaenopsis pot onto tray which resulted in few broken tops/leaves and total re-arrangement. They lost bottom leaves, I don't see much growth in the foliage but they seem to be straightening up a bit.







One of the plants with broken top is even growing a new leaf (in the front of the tray):


----------



## Wendy (Jun 23, 2015)

Looking good!!!!!! :clap:


----------



## Rick (Jun 23, 2015)

Looks like significant growth in 2 months!


----------



## NYEric (Jun 23, 2015)

Thanks for the update.


----------



## Bob in Albany N.Y. (Jun 23, 2015)

They look wonderful. Wish you lived in the US and could grow some flasks out for me.


----------



## Justin (Jun 23, 2015)

nice work! whatever you are doing keep it up.


----------



## Ozpaph (Jun 24, 2015)

any new roots to be seen?


----------



## Cat (Jun 24, 2015)

You got this! Keep it up.


----------



## orchideya (Jan 2, 2016)

These are anitum seedlings now, still alive but..... They were a bit overgrown in flask and had long narrow leaves from beginning. I expected the new leaves to be normal width but they appear quite narrow too, so I think I am doing something wrong. What is it? Too much light, too little light, not enough ferts?
any idea? Thanks.


----------



## polyantha (Jan 2, 2016)

I think they are on a good way. Even the bigger anitums tend to slow down their growth without any reason you might think. Well, it still is a difficult species and we have to accept that I guess.
"Too much light, too little light, not enough ferts?" I don't think that it is a good idea to give them fertilizer at all since it can kill the roots fast. If you are using rain or RO water it might be ok to give them very very low fert conc. tough.
Light shouldn't be a problem with anitum. Under my conditions they grow well under normal roth light intensity as well as under phal light int.


----------



## John M (Jan 2, 2016)

They look good to me. I'd be very pleased with those.


----------



## calypso (Jan 2, 2016)

Seems to be very healthy, don't wet foliage, don't use the quart of engrais you imagined to use the less is 
the better:evil::clap:


----------



## Justin (Jan 2, 2016)

polyantha said:


> I think they are on a good way. Even the bigger anitums tend to slow down their growth without any reason you might think. Well, it still is a difficult species and we have to accept that I guess.
> "Too much light, too little light, not enough ferts?" I don't think that it is a good idea to give them fertilizer at all since it can kill the roots fast. If you are using rain or RO water it might be ok to give them very very low fert conc. tough.
> Light shouldn't be a problem with anitum. Under my conditions they grow well under normal roth light intensity as well as under phal light int.



I agree about the roots -- i do fertilize mine but at half the strength of what i use for my other orchids...so half strength of my usual 1/16-1/4 tsp of 30-10-10. constant moisture for the roots (i keep mine wet) and low light.


----------



## Wendy (Jan 2, 2016)

They look fine to me. Healthy, happy seedlings. You're doing great!


----------



## My Green Pets (Jan 2, 2016)

Normally I would attribute long, narrow leaves to low light. They look healthy though — I don't know how you are able to keep the fungi away.


----------



## Ozpaph (Jan 2, 2016)

if they look healthy - dont change a thing


----------



## troy (Jan 2, 2016)

The flask is actually a phrag flask lol... mislabeled


----------



## Happypaphy7 (Jan 2, 2016)

They are still alive and growing! 
Congrats!!!!
Wish the best of luck!


----------



## Bjorn (Jan 3, 2016)

troy said:


> The flask is actually a phrag flask lol... mislabeled



Perhaps not phrags, but the leaves are not wide enough for anitum IMO, but time will show. Often leaves change drastically after deflasking. Good luck


----------



## polyantha (Jan 3, 2016)

Bjorn said:


> Perhaps not phrags, but the leaves are not wide enough for anitum IMO, but time will show. Often leaves change drastically after deflasking. Good luck



The tesselation of the leaves looks right to me. Altough the colour might be a little on the green side instead of the bluish teint they usually have. But maybe this comes later. I have sown some anitum flasks a week ago. I wonder how these will develop and if they are different than the ones of this thread.


----------



## Happypaphy7 (Jan 3, 2016)

These are still very very young. 
I've seen a jump in leaf width as much as three times. 
When they are ready, some of them will go from this little narrow leaf to a very wide one.
Then, some of them will gradually grow larger.


----------



## Alex (Jan 3, 2016)

I had a flask of anitum from Formosa last year (one survivor! Partly because they arrived all jumbled up and every one with broken leaves). Anyway, they looked just like this, long leaves and all, and I think this just must be how they start off at this young age. Unless we all have wrongly named flasks, which seems unlikely.


----------



## orchideya (Jan 3, 2016)

Thanks guys for your comments and advice. Mine came from Ching Hua , I thought they were trusted vendor and never doubted label, so thought it was my culture fault...

Re: roots. I did fertilized them, so decided to un-pot now and check the roots - indeed, roots took a lot of damage. damn me. I moved them from those deep pots back to shallow trays, hope new roots will come out soon. what a setback just when I though everything is fine.


----------



## Ozpaph (Jan 4, 2016)

curiosity killed the cat!


----------



## Dandrobium (Apr 20, 2016)

How is the root recovery going with your seedlings? Have you changed anything in your culture at all since the root damage? I've got a small compot as well and just wondering about anyone's success with raising these from small seedling size. 
Thanks!


----------



## Bjorn (Apr 21, 2016)

Yes, how are they doing?


----------

