# Need Dendrobium advice



## The Orchid Boy (Dec 23, 2012)

I rescued a Dendrobium aggregatum v. majus and a Dendrobium Thongchai Gold 'Viroj' today. The aggregatum seems nice sized, healthy w/ lots of p-bulbs. The other one is a dendro-phal type I think, and has 2 mature growths with 1 or maybe more starting. The first is in a platic pot in bark, second is in sphag in a platic pot. I just read that the aggregatum can be a little tougher to grow and needs a cool and very dry winter. I've never had a dendrobium before and can use all the help I can get.


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## SlipperFan (Dec 23, 2012)

I personally would not grow a phalaenopsis-type Dendrobium in sphagnum. I agree that the aggregatum likes a cooler, dryer winter season, but the phal-type needs water year-around. They both like lots of light.


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## The Orchid Boy (Dec 23, 2012)

It seems healthy in sphagnum and doesn't have any root rot. I also grow all my cattleyas in sphagnum because I overwatered them in bark. Unlike most people I tend to overwater things in bark and underwater things in sphagnum. Most of the time I use a mix of mostly bark with a little sphag.


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## Stone (Dec 24, 2012)

Grow the agg. on cork and you won't go far wrong. If the hybrid is a tropical hard-cane type, maybe try leca and as much heat, light and humidity (with air) you can give it.. Remember the golden rule with Dend. Small pots and don't disturb until new roots are comming out of NEW growth.


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## Ozpaph (Dec 24, 2012)

I wouldn't grow the hard cane in spag - but if you're really careful with the winter watering it might work. Better if you can keep the spag alive.
I grow my aggregatum in a woven plastic basket/pot but mounting is a great idea.


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## The Orchid Boy (Dec 24, 2012)

I would absolutely LOVE to mount the aggregatum but I don't know if it would do ok in humidity around 50%-60%, or would it? I was thinking if I didn't mount it, use a courser mix of bark, charcoal, and perlite or medium lava rock in a clay pot.


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## keithrs (Dec 24, 2012)

You can pot both in crushed 1-2" pieces of terra cotta(pots) or clay brick in TC pots. You won't have to worry about over watering.

Usually when people get rot in bark from "overwatering" its really because theres a pathogen in the bark causing your roots to rot. People will take that as rot from overwatering rather them a problem in there media. You have a better chance of "overwatering" in sphag. then bark because you can 'seal' the air movement in the pot and drown the roots if it gets to wet. Water itself will not cause rot hints SH.


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## SlipperFan (Dec 24, 2012)

The Orchid Boy said:


> I would absolutely LOVE to mount the aggregatum but I don't know if it would do ok in humidity around 50%-60%, or would it? I was thinking if I didn't mount it, use a courser mix of bark, charcoal, and perlite or medium lava rock in a clay pot.



Try mounting it and then hang it inside a big clay pot that is sitting in water. This worked for me for years before I got my greenhouse. The big clay pot wicks up the water (soak it first) and provides some humidity to the plant(s) hanging inside.


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## Ozpaph (Dec 25, 2012)

The Orchid Boy said:


> I would absolutely LOVE to mount the aggregatum but I don't know if it would do ok in humidity around 50%-60%, or would it? I was thinking if I didn't mount it, use a courser mix of bark, charcoal, and perlite or medium lava rock in a clay pot.



Thicker leaved orchids are more tolerant of lower humidity conditions.


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## goldenrose (Dec 25, 2012)

The Orchid Boy said:


> I would absolutely LOVE to mount the aggregatum but I don't know if it would do ok in humidity around 50%-60%, or would it? I was thinking if I didn't mount it, use a courser mix of bark, charcoal, and perlite or medium lava rock in a clay pot.


Mine was mounted, it grew like a weed but no matter what I did I couldn't get it to bloom ... but it will now 'cause I sold it this fall!


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## The Orchid Boy (Dec 25, 2012)

I mounted a little cattleya once and couldn't keep it watered enough and it eventually died. So I'm a little afraid to try any other orchids mounted.


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## bballr4567 (Dec 25, 2012)

You could always mount it with a little spag like I do so they dont dry out so fast.


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## The Orchid Boy (Dec 25, 2012)

What about basket culture? I wouldn't be able to hang the basket under my light but I could set it directly on the wire shelf or boost it up with a clay pot or something. If I did basket culture, what media and how often would I have to water? I thought about bark and watering every day or every other day or sphagnum and not watering until it completely dries out and then wait a day or two just to be sure.


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## The Orchid Boy (Dec 29, 2012)

Any information or opinions about basket culture with bark or sphagnum?


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## keithrs (Dec 30, 2012)

keithrs said:


> You can pot both in crushed 1-2" pieces of terra cotta(pots) or clay brick in TC pots. You won't have to worry about over watering.



How about trying this? It works! You can even use plastic pots if you want.


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## Leo Schordje (Dec 30, 2012)

My first thought is, pot them in the mix you know how to water. You need to be able to predict when mix will need water. Sounds like you know how to use sphagnum, so stick with sphagnum. Do not try to have a custom mix for every plant. One or two mixes that you know how to water is best. I have seen beautiful plants grown in pure sphagnum, if it is working well stick with it. 

Second, do not do repotting unless you have new root buds on new growths. Out of season repotting of Dendrobium and Cattleya are frequent causes of failure to thrive. Unless there is an emergency, wait until new growth starts putting out roots. 

I would grow the aggregatum as a mount, but don't move it until new growth is underway. 

Hope they do well for, the advice from others on hight light is correct. 
Hope this helps


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## The Orchid Boy (Dec 30, 2012)

Sounds like a mount for the aggregatum is the way to go. Would it really do well mounted in low humidity? I don't want to have to do anything special for humidity. Would a treefern plaque be good? How do I give it a dry winter rest mounted? Same as in a pot but water a little more?


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## keithrs (Dec 30, 2012)

The Orchid Boy said:


> Sounds like a mount for the aggregatum is the way to go. Would it really do well mounted in low humidity? I don't want to have to do anything special for humidity. Would a treefern plaque be good? How do I give it a dry winter rest mounted? Same as in a pot but water a little more?



It will be fine if watered daily while growing. I have never used treefern but it should be ok to use. Winter rest is very easy to do to mounted plants. Reduce watering to once a week or so, No fert., Give cool night temps, increase waterings as night temps start come up.


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## Leo Schordje (Dec 31, 2012)

My humidity is very low in winter, yet I have many mounted orchids, some Dendrobiums. I water 'resting' mounted Dendrobs, about once a week. This seems dry enough. In summer actively growing mounts get watered every 3 to 5 days. It may not be ideal, but it works for me.

Tree fern or cork? They both work well, which ever you have on hand is the one to use.


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## The Orchid Boy (Dec 31, 2012)

I was thinking about a treefern plaque because I heard they can hold a little more moisture. Can they? 

Thanks so much for the help everyone!


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## keithrs (Dec 31, 2012)

Tree fern does hold water better than cork, but cork last longer.


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## The Orchid Boy (Jan 3, 2013)

Not sure if my current winter temps are cool enough for D. aggregatum. The temps range from 60F-67F. I have a place that constantly stays around 35F-40F but this seems too cold. And no I can't crack a window, got in trouble for doing that.


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## goldenrose (Jan 3, 2013)

Hmmm ....... here's my 2 cents worth ....
although I wasn't successful at blooming it, it grew like a weed for me. I had mine in a shallow net type pot with some coco fiber. These plants are found growing on tree trunks in open forests with a dry, full sun, winter rest, so why would you be hesitant on mounting it? 
The night time winter lows in my GH are 50-55, it was located in the south end. I, too, thought because it was mounted that it should be watered weekly in the winter. As I talked to various people that were successful in blooming them, I was told don't even mist them in the winter, dry meant dry. I felt I tried everything, (had the plant for 8 years) & sold it this past fall, good luck, hope this helps!


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## The Orchid Boy (Jan 3, 2013)

So you didn't water at all during winter and it didn't shrivel up? Or did you water once a month or something? Would you keep it totally dry or same or more moist mounted as in a pot?


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## Leo Schordje (Jan 4, 2013)

I haven't personally grown D aggregatum, but I do recall now exactly what Rose said, being said to me. Bone dry. Yes, there will be some shriveling, but this is part of what the plant needs to trigger blooming. I have grown Dendrobium nobile for many years, and bloomed it many times. I used to keep it bone dry also, no water at all. It would shrivel and look bad, but when the new growth and flower buds started to show, I started watering and a few days later the plant looked great. Don't worry about it being too dry during the rest. Like some cactus, it really does need to dry out.


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## The Orchid Boy (Jan 4, 2013)

I'll probably mount it on virgin cork. When would be the best time to do that? Some sources say you can mount it while it is resting and continue giving it rest, but I don't know.



The Orchid Boy said:


> Not sure if my current winter temps are cool enough for D. aggregatum. *The temps range from 60F-67F. I have a place that constantly stays around 35F-40F* but this seems too cold. And no I can't crack a window, got in trouble for doing that.



Are my current winter temps of 63F-70F cool enough? I could put it in the fridge of 40F at night?

Thank you so much for your help everyone. You've all helped a lot. I hope I don't bother you by asking too many questions!


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## goldenrose (Jan 5, 2013)

The Orchid Boy said:


> I'll probably mount it on virgin cork. When would be the best time to do that? Some sources say you can mount it while it is resting and continue giving it rest, but I don't know.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Most seem to feel repotting is best done when roots are showing active growth, my gut says it may be better to wait to mount.
I don't think your temps are a problem unless you don't have at least a 15 degree difference between day/night. The trick seems to be the dry winter rest. One year I tried occasional misting, the next year none for 6-8 weeks, no blooms, the next year 3months no water, no misting no blooms, whatever I did it still continued to grow!
Today I noticed buds on my dend. atroviolacea, this will be the 2nd dend I've bloomed/rebloomed!


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## Ozpaph (Jan 5, 2013)

forget the fridge.
Just try in the coolest part of the greenhouse. Mine is a small plant but outside year round in a mesh basket. It can get into the high 40's or low 50's in winter, here.
Don't 'repot' unless its in active growth (new roots showing).


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## The Orchid Boy (Mar 13, 2013)

I've got it mounted now and it looks really nice.


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## SlipperFan (Mar 13, 2013)

Looking good!


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## cnycharles (Mar 14, 2013)

goldenrose said:


> Mine was mounted, it grew like a weed but no matter what I did I couldn't get it to bloom ... but it will now 'cause I sold it this fall!


so true!

i've had an aggregatum-type that i bought a few years ago with lots of growths (mounted on cork) and after a while the new growths and spikes would turn black. it hasn't flowered (but I haven't killed it which is a miracle with dendrobiums for me) and also may head to someone else, soon

I just posted bud pics of a pleuro that the owner told me hadn't gotten it to flower in four years, and it just put out buds for me (I got it a few months ago)


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