# What is this?



## Daniel Herrera (Nov 9, 2013)

Some of my paphs have a problem where the leaves get orange spots. There are also some small insects that I think are some sort of larvae. They are too small for my camera to capture them though, but I can leave some pictures of the damage in one of my paphs. Do you know what is this? How can I treat it?

http://s894.photobucket.com/user/daniel24941/media/IMAG0484_zpsa24497a5.jpg.html
http://s894.photobucket.com/user/daniel24941/media/IMAG0483_zps0d30b71f.jpg.html
http://s894.photobucket.com/user/daniel24941/media/IMAG0482_zpsd4f45e84.jpg.html
http://s894.photobucket.com/user/daniel24941/media/IMAG0485_zps8a07f361.jpg.html


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## Paphman910 (Nov 9, 2013)

It could be thrips! I had same probably with my paph many years ago.


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## Erythrone (Nov 9, 2013)

Since I was unable to see the pics on Photobucket, I paste their links

















Yes, it does look like thrips damage! Guess the small insects are greenish or yellowish (western flower thrips larvae). I guess you see black dots too.


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## Daniel Herrera (Nov 9, 2013)

Thank you, but how do I get rid of them?


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## NYEric (Nov 9, 2013)

rubbing alcohol.


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## abax (Nov 10, 2013)

Orthene WP 97% and drench the potting medium throughly. One teaspoon per gallon.


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## NYEric (Nov 10, 2013)

Holy smokes!


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## Erythrone (Nov 10, 2013)

Botanigard for me!


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## Wendy (Nov 10, 2013)

abax said:


> Orthene WP 97% and drench the potting medium throughly. One teaspoon per gallon.



What Angela says. Don't mess with thrips.


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## Daniel Herrera (Nov 11, 2013)

abax said:


> Orthene WP 97% and drench the potting medium throughly. One teaspoon per gallon.



Should I use this solution to water my plants in a regular basis or should I sumerge the whole plant one time only?


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## littlefrog (Nov 11, 2013)

Tank mix of distance, azamax, and spinosad... Works like a dream.


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## Wendy (Nov 11, 2013)

I used to do mine twice, about 10 - 14 days apart. Orthene is toxic so make sure you don't apply it indoors, plus wear protective clothing, mask, glasses etc. I took my plants out into the yard, treated them, let them dry and then put them back indoors. The only time I used Orthene was for thrips. They are almost impossible to get rid of otherwise.

I believe there are other systemics that may not be as toxic as Orthene....maybe someone here can chime in. (as in Rob's post above)


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## SlipperFan (Nov 11, 2013)

littlefrog said:


> Tank mix of distance, azamax, and spinosad... Works like a dream.


A little more explanation, please?


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## Paph_LdyMacBeth (Nov 11, 2013)

Spinosad should work fantastically!
Its a big new player in flea treatments and has shown no resistance. 
I'll be following this thread. 
Crappy thing being in Canada and not having access to pesticides when you need. 

Sent from my BlackBerry Bold 9900 using Tapatalk


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## chrismende (Nov 12, 2013)

The first thing I would do is to repot the plant, carefully getting rid of all the old media. I would then dip it in a solution of Physan 20 for about half an hour. The plant looks to me as if it is rotting from the bottom up. The surface damage may be incidental. First find out what the roots look like!


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## NYEric (Nov 12, 2013)




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## cnycharles (Nov 12, 2013)

Conserve (spinosad) has been used a lot for thrip and in some places they are becoming resistant. It may still work fine in some areas. If you use the high rate and plaster the whole plant it will be more effective

Try sucrashield from ray; it eats through the sides of the bug and isn't a poison. Just have to make sure you don't get it in your eyes


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Stone (Nov 12, 2013)

Are we sure it's thrips? I have had the same problem and after looking VERY closely many times I have never seen anything moving.


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## Erythrone (Nov 13, 2013)

Stone said:


> Are we sure it's thrips? I have had the same problem and after looking VERY closely many times I have never seen anything moving.



He wrote: _There are also some small insects that I think are some sort of larvae._


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## littlefrog (Nov 13, 2013)

SlipperFan said:


> A little more explanation, please?



It works for me. Goal was to get something vertebrate friendly, and all of those things are (in theory) quite safe. I sell a lot of plants to frog people, so can't use a lot of things.

Distance - an insect growth regulator, can't remember which class, but it has translaminar activity (it is a systemic, in other words). Enstar II would probably work, but I like systemics. It might only be available in large quantities, but you could come pick some up, Dot.

Azamax - active ingredient the same as in neem. I don't know if it is synthetic or purified. Neem oil has a long history of being less than consistently effective, so the standardized formula is more reliable. Azidarachtin is an anti-feedant and has a few other modes of action, I'm not sure anybody knows all of the things it does yet.

Spinosad is the active 'ingredient' in a beneficial bacterium - I buy it as 'Dr. Doom's Deadbug Brew', which is an evocative name. Worked well for me. I've heard it works on molluscs too, but I can't say that it ever has had that effect for me.

Anyway, if I did my research right, three different (maybe more) modes of action, so resistance should be minimal. Doesn't mean it can't happen... In my hands it did absolutely no damage to plants, I sprayed it on flowers and buds and everything in the barn, not a spot or blemish. The usual three times, a week apart.


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## Erythrone (Nov 13, 2013)

littlefrog said:


> It works for me. Goal was to get something vertebrate friendly, and all of those things are (in theory) quite safe. I sell a lot of plants to frog people, so can't use a lot of things.
> 
> Distance - an insect growth regulator, can't remember which class, but it has translaminar activity (it is a systemic, in other words). Enstar II would probably work, but I like systemics. It might only be available in large quantities, but you could come pick some up, Dot.
> 
> ...



Interesting Littlefrog. I did not know Spinosad. Maybe I shoud use it sometimes. Maybe I should aternate with Botanigard.


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## phrag guy (Nov 13, 2013)

Monterey Garden Insect Spray has Spinosad in it works well on thrips and other pests


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## SlipperFan (Nov 13, 2013)

Thanks, Rob. I've heard of Dr. Doom's Deadbug Brew, but wondered if it was a scam product. Good to know it is not.


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## Paph_LdyMacBeth (Nov 13, 2013)

And which of you fine folks will be ensuring your Canadian friend has access to chemicals? 

Sent from my BlackBerry Bold 9900 using Tapatalk


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## Leo Schordje (Nov 14, 2013)

Thanks Rob, for all our Canadians, check in at your local Grow Shop, the ones that cater to the marijuana growers. They may carry the Dr Doom product, or something similar since it is an extract from natural organisms. And while there, check out the lighting systems. They always have the newest in under lights technology. Orchids in general need about half the light that marijuana does, so you can use that as a guideline. That would be about right for most Cattleya. 

My local Hydro Your Own, has been a great resource for the latest in under lights technology, and more interesting substrates for hydroponics or semi-hydroponics. Pretty good for the less toxic, more environmentally friendly insecticides. If you are ever in Kenosha, WI, its on Hwy 50 at county H.


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## NYEric (Nov 15, 2013)

Mari..what!?


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## Daniel Herrera (Nov 17, 2013)

Well, out of all mentioned products I found none, but I found one that contains Spinosad as the main active ingredient. I decided to give it a try, lets hope it works. I repoted all of the orchids, unfortunately I ran out of potting material, so I had to reuse some. I pray the reused potting material to make sure there were no more thrips in there, either way I will keep an eye on those pots.

Wish me luck!


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## Erythrone (Nov 17, 2013)

Yes, there can be thrips pupae in your mix...


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## ALToronto (Nov 17, 2013)

If you have to reuse potting material, at least boil or microwave it to kill any insects or their eggs.


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## littlefrog (Nov 17, 2013)

Somebody told me it was actually 'Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew'. Maybe. I think Dr. Doom is a better name, if you need that name I'll sell it to you for a quarter.


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## labskaus (Nov 18, 2013)

I used to have plants with damage similar to what Daniel shows. It didn't go away with the use of insectizides. It did eventually go away with repeated treats of akarizides. The link below has a lot of info on orchid pests. Look at the pictures and decide what is most likely the problem with your plants.

http://www.hark-orchideen.de/Pflanzenschutz/uebersicht.php?lang=en&navID=99


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## SlipperFan (Nov 18, 2013)

Thanks, Carsten. Hark just built a facility in a nearby city, and it will be interesting to see their impact on the orchid community in this area. It looks like, from this link, they are quite competent.


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