# Recirculating water table for phrag culture



## xiphius (Jan 2, 2018)

I decided to start the new year off by realizing an idea that I have been sitting on for quite some time. With the move to a new (larger) growing space, I now finally have the room (and the time) to do this - a recirculating water table for my phrags! This idea is based off something I saw on the Gore Orchid Conservatory site years ago (http://goreorchids.com/CatalogAndInfo/Phrag-culture-SH.html). A lot of people grow their phrags (very successfully) standing in water trays. The idea here is to have a constantly recirculcating layer of water from a reservoir, some of the advantages being:

1) constant water level (since the water level is dependant on the reservoir and not on tray evaporation).
2) water stays cleaner (moving water doesn't get nasty nearly as fast as stagnant water).
3) much larger volume of water doesn't accumulate minerals as fast and doesn't need to be changed out as often. So, less maintenance.

I am all about things that automate/lower maintenance so I have more time to actually appreciate and enjoy my plants. Ok, lets get building!

I picked up a shallow, long, and narrow storage tub to use as the base. I am using flexible vinyl tubing for all the plumbing since this will make it easier to take apart for cleaning and also make it easier to shift and move as necessary (flexible). I will attach the tubing to the tub using barb fittings. But first, I needed a way to attach the barb fitting to the the tub! Looking around online and in various hardware stores, I was taken-aback by how expensive PVC bulkhead fittings are ($10-$20/fitting depending on the size)! However, it turns out they are actually quite easy to make from some very inexpensively obtained parts. All you need to make them is a pair of male/female thread-slip CONDUIT* adapters in whatever size you want and an o-ring of the appropriate size. The adapters are about $0.50-$0.70 depending on size. The o-rings I made out of some spare rubber I had laying around. For this particular build, the inlet hose is going to be 3/4 in. ID and the passive overflow is going to be 1 in. I arrived at these sizes since the pump I am using is rated at ~350 gallons per hour for a 2 foot lift. The one inch outlet should easily be able to drain at this rate and keep up with the flow.

*Step one (move everybody off the phrag shelf and test the tub for fit):*

Everybody off!






Adjust the shelf so the tub is centered:





*Step two (make and install the bulkhead fittings):*

Adapters:





Pieces - I am joining the slip components using a small piece of appropriately sized PVC pipe. I also cut off the long (slip) end of the female adapter since this will not be required and makes the whole build more compact.





Finished bulkheds - forgot to take pictures of making the gaskets, but I assume everyone knows how to cut a circle 





Installing: Cut holes just slightly larger than the threads on the male adapter and popped them in.















*Step three (the test):*






I put the tubing on and it was a bit stiffer than I expected, so I will probably go ahead and throw some elbows on there to help route the tubing more easily. Works pretty well though! The static water line sits right above the 1-inch overflow. Because the side of the tub was curved near the bottom, I had to drill the hole for this about 1-1.5 in above the bottom of the tub. So the water is a bit deep (covers about 2/3 of the pots). So I may have to put a tray in there to raise them up a bit. If I had been able to find a tub with straight sides, I could have drilled the hole much lower and avoided this bit.






I am going to see about adding elbows this afternoon to get it permanently in place and running.

I can't say I am disappointed in this build. The deeper than anticipated water is an easily fixed issue and a better problem to have then not being deep enough. The whole thing only cost me about $45 ($15 for the tub and ~$30 in sundry plumbing stuff). The pump I had laying around already for aquarium stuff, but these can be bought for around $20. So with the pump, the total build cost is around $65. The reservoir I am using is an old cat-litter bucket that holds around 5 gallons.

Hopefully my phrags find this a great way to start out the new year! 

*Note: It is very important to get CONDUIT adapters (in the electrical section) rather than getting PLUMBING adapters. Although they superficially look very similar, plumbing adapters have tapered threads which don't allow you to screw them together completely so the surfaces touch. Conduit adapters have straight threads and you can easily screw them together completely to get a good seal.


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## Paphluvr (Jan 2, 2018)

The concept sounds good and the set-up looks good. The only thing I question is the 350 g/hr pump. That's close to 1 g/sec meaning a total water change every 4-5 sec. Wouldn't you want to create more of a water seep flow rate, maybe in the g/min range? Regardless, I like your idea and hope you'll keep us updated on the results or observations. Good luck!


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## Linus_Cello (Jan 2, 2018)

Supposedly this is the best way to grow PK.


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## orchid527 (Jan 2, 2018)

Very clever with respect to the bulkhead fittings. Please keep us updated about how this works for you in the months ahead. The phrags drying out in my greenhouse limit how long I can be away on vacation. A setup like this could take care of the problem. Mike


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## xiphius (Jan 2, 2018)

Paphluvr said:


> The only thing I question is the 350 g/hr pump. That's close to 1 g/sec meaning a total water change every 4-5 sec.



It's actually around 350 gal/hr = ~0.1 gal/sec (I think you missed a decimal somewhere in there). The total system volume is around 12-15 gallons, which means my turnover is around 20-25 times per hour. This is actually about the recommended bare minimum for any home aquarium setup. While the water current in the tub is definitely strong, it's hardly torrential (think medium - fast stream, not white water rapids ). The plants should definitely be able to take it. I've seen more than a few _in situ_ photos of plants growing happily in or very near much stronger flows (case and point, see this in situ photo of phrag pearcei). And plants like besseae which grow on very steep rocks would frequently be subjected to really fast flowing water as rain runs over/off the rocks.

I actually see the fast(er) current as a plus rather than a minus as it also means that the water flowing by the roots should be pretty well aerated (another plus of moving vs stagnant water).

The only thing I am worried about is the depth. 2/3 of the pot submerged seems a but much, especially if it's on a continuing basis.

I will definitely post updates/progress!

Cheers!


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## xiphius (Jan 2, 2018)

Linus_Cello said:


> Supposedly this is the best way to grow PK.



This thought had crossed my mind when I was thinking about building the recirculating setup. One day, I hope to add a PK to my collection .


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## Ray (Jan 2, 2018)

I think it's a great idea, if a bit too deep at the moment, and lowering the drain fitting should be easy.

The one _caveat_, in my mind, is that if several plants share the bath, you have created the ideal way to share pathogens. I would avoid using chemicals to ameliorate that, so maybe consider an inline UV sterilizer?


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## abax (Jan 3, 2018)

The same thought occurred to me too Ray...also rot in
that much water. My Phrags. would begin rotting almost
immediately with the high humidity in my greenhouse if
I tried that method. In winter I only water maybe twice
a week...if the sun happens to come out.

I do admire do it yourselfers.


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## Brabantia (Jan 3, 2018)

I never very well understand why some growers want cultivate there Phrags with there foots in a tray of water. It seems to me that this is not the best solution to have a good air (oxygène)circulation around the roots.

Envoyé de mon Nexus 9 en utilisant Tapatalk


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## Ray (Jan 3, 2018)

Brabantia said:


> I never very well understand why some growers want cultivate there Phrags with there foots in a tray of water. It seems to me that this is not the best solution to have a good air (oxygène)circulation around the roots




Consider that there are some phrags that grow with their roots growing into streams...

All of my paphs and phrags are doing will in semi-hydroponic culture, in which they are standing in a pot having a 5-6cm water reservoir inside the pot. Each and every plant, over time, will grow its roots right down into the water, with no rotting whatsoever. 

I'm not saying that one can just stick a plant into a reservoir, as if you submerge existing roots, they will suffocate and die.


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## xiphius (Jan 3, 2018)

Ray said:


> I think it's a great idea, if a bit too deep at the moment, and lowering the drain fitting should be easy.
> 
> The one _caveat_, in my mind, is that if several plants share the bath, you have created the ideal way to share pathogens. I would avoid using chemicals to ameliorate that, so maybe consider an inline UV sterilizer?



I wish I could just drill the hole lower, but the side of the tub is curved near the bottom. So for now I am just going to put a tray in there to raise the pots up a bit and keep the water level the same as it is now (about 1.5 inches). In future, if I can find a tub with straight sides all the way to the bottom that is the right shape, I may just swap out the tub.

An inline UV sterilizer might be a good idea. I might look into adding one in the future. For now, I am not too concerned about the pathogens issue since my plants already occupy communal trays (for quite some time with no issues so far - of course, that's not to say it won't become an issue in the future). Also, I won't have that many plants in the tub. right now since I don't have terribly many phrags at the moment.


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## xiphius (Jan 3, 2018)

abax said:


> The same thought occurred to me too Ray...also rot in
> that much water. My Phrags. would begin rotting almost
> immediately with the high humidity in my greenhouse if
> I tried that method. In winter I only water maybe twice
> ...



Yeah, I am definitely not going to let them sit that deep. They probably would rot. I am going to put in a tray to raise them up in the water such that only the bottom 1.5 inches of pot are submerged (which is about what they have currently).

I wish I had high(er) humidity, still adjusting to the new space and this is something I have been struggling with... keeping it above 50% has been a real struggle, especially with how cold it's been outside here


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## xiphius (Jan 3, 2018)

Brabantia said:


> I never very well understand why some growers want cultivate there Phrags with there foots in a tray of water. It seems to me that this is not the best solution to have a good air (oxygène)circulation around the roots.
> 
> Envoyé de mon Nexus 9 en utilisant Tapatalk



If you have super-high humidity (like 80-100%) and water a few times a week, then you probably don't need the trays to grow them well. But if your humidity is low or your water isn't terrific, then the trays really help!

Personally, it would be next to impossible for me to grow phrags at all WITHOUT trays of water. They would just dry out too fast and I would have to water continuously. Also, as Ray noted, mine have been sitting in water for as long as I've had them and many are now growing roots out the bottom of the pot completely submerged in water 24/7. These roots are really healthy and in no way rotting or struggling.


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## xiphius (Jan 3, 2018)

Also, as a quick update, the hardware store was out of 3/4 inch right elbows yesterday, so I am going to have to look elsewhere today and temporarily delay the permanent install. But updates with the final installation will be forthcoming!


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## Ray (Jan 3, 2018)

xiphius said:


> I wish I could just drill the hole lower, but the side of the tub is curved near the bottom. So for now I am just going to put a tray in there to raise the pots up a bit and keep the water level the same as it is now (about 1.5 inches). In future, if I can find a tub with straight sides all the way to the bottom that is the right shape, I may just swap out the tub.



Or...

Drill a hole in the bottom, and use a bulkhead fitting to create a shallow standpipe


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## littlefrog (Jan 3, 2018)

Put a clay saucer or two upside down under each pot to lift them...

And if you are worried about oxygen, get an air pump and bubbler. I bought one that is probably over-oxygenating my 1000 gallon storage tank. I run it 24 hours a day. I think the whole setup cost around $60 at the hydroponics store.


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## Tom499 (Jan 4, 2018)

Great to see someone trying this, thank you for the detailed post. I really want to do this one day when I have the space.

I see that the air stone has already been suggested, I couldn't tell if you were using a pump, or also a filter too? My plan is to use my external aquarium filter, as well as a heater to maintain water temps to help with root growth.

I also was thinking to put the pump on a timer, similar to the flood and drain hydroponics systems, so the plants do get a period not submerged. 

(With phrags requiring only light ferts, I would then be tempted to go one further and introduce aquatic plants, maybe some small fish... )


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## xiphius (Jan 4, 2018)

Ray said:


> Or... Drill a hole in the bottom, and use a bulkhead fitting to create a shallow standpipe



That's a great idea! I had actually thought about drilling the bottom and just putting on a smaller drain when I was setting it up, but the only tub of correct dimensions I could find doesn't have a very flat bottom (it has these weird ridges every inch or so (probably for support so they can get away with using thinner/cheaper plastic). I have already decided that I am going to be rebuilding the tub portion at some point in the future though (the tub by itself is pretty cheap) and I love the standpipe idea. This would let me actually interchange standpipes of different depths (very easily) if I wanted to have slightly wetter or dryer conditions depending on the season.



littlefrog said:


> Put a clay saucer or two upside down under each pot to lift them...
> 
> And if you are worried about oxygen, get an air pump and bubbler. I bought one that is probably over-oxygenating my 1000 gallon storage tank. I run it 24 hours a day. I think the whole setup cost around $60 at the hydroponics store.



That's the plan. I don't think I want to put an airstone in the actual reservoir itself, though. This would create the risk of the pump sucking up air bubbles (which is really bad for the pump). But I may throw one in the tray with the plants.



Tom499 said:


> Great to see someone trying this, thank you for the detailed post. I really want to do this one day when I have the space.
> 
> I see that the air stone has already been suggested, I couldn't tell if you were using a pump, or also a filter too? My plan is to use my external aquarium filter, as well as a heater to maintain water temps to help with root growth.
> 
> ...



I wish you the best of luck when you try it yourself. The build was actually much easier than I anticipated once I found out how to do the bulkhead fittings. I am not terribly worried about the air issue. Right now my plants sit in about 1.5 inches of stagnant water with no problem and have lots of roots growing into the water. They aren't going to be any deeper in the current system (once I adjust the height) than they already are, so it shouldn't be a problem. I may add an airstone to the tub, but I am hesitant to add one to the reservoir as I don't want my pump sucking up air bubbles. I do have an aquarium heater which I plan to throw into the reservoir at least during winter to head off water temperature issues when I have top off the system. Don't want to suddenly shock them with ice water!

The flood/drain idea is really interesting! In theory, you could use a deep tub and this strategy to effectively auto-water your phrags by having the pots completely submerged for 30 min-1 hour per day and then just let the system drain by shutting off the pump. A neat idea that I might steal when adding more tubs for other stuff later on :evil:.

It's funny that you mention fish. When I was done building it, my dad jokingly suggested that we throw in a couple zebra-fish to complete the whole "jungle stream" ambiance :rollhappy:.


I finally found the fittings I needed on the way into work this morning, so I am hoping to get it installed this afternoon.


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## TyroneGenade (Jan 4, 2018)

Thanks for posting your design, and the commentary by everyone else. As I dream about growing Disa again this type of information will go a long way towards turning my dreaming into a plan.


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## dodidoki (Jan 6, 2018)

I tried it once in the past. Fist reply was rotting within few days. Remember a pic of delenatii in situ took by Mr. Cahn. Roots were always wet by dripping water but on the surface of rocks so they could breathe.


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## Ray (Jan 6, 2018)

dodidoki said:


> I tried it once in the past. Fist reply was rotting within few days. Remember a pic of delenatii in situ took by Mr. Cahn. Roots were always wet by dripping water but on the surface of rocks so they could breathe.



To me, that reinforces my thoughts on root growth: Yes, they need both air and water, but they can grow in a way that makes different conditions acceptable.

Move a plant into semi-hydroponics, for example. You MUST pot it with the roots above the static reservoir, or they will rot. However, over time, the plant will grow its roots down into the reservoir, so will be submerged at all times, but do not rot, and in fact, they plant will do better than ever.

In the case of the "ebb and flow" nature of the concept in this thread, I believe the best option would be to have the tray be deep, have the pump flood it completely on a timer, then let it drain.

That could be accomplished by having a standpipe to set the maximum depth, but have a smaller hole in its base (or the tray bottom) to allow the water to slowly drain. (I am assuming the pump can lift more water than the hole can drain per unit time.)


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## xiphius (Jan 15, 2018)

Long overdue, but finally finished the install, with a few changes. Adding the elbows changed the drain rate enough to pretty drastically raise the water level, so I added a ball valve to help regulate the equilibrium water line. Right now I just have them sitting on overturned disposable bowls to raise them up a bit and they are sitting in about 1/2 - 3/4 inches of water (a bit less than the 1 inch or so they were in originally). However, since the water line won't be changing with evaporation, I don't have to worry about keeping them standing as deep (more air!). I may adjust the water line a bit, but the overall setup seems to be working splendidly.

In future, I am going to rebuild the tub and try to implement Ray's idea of using a standpipe from the bottom. This will make customizing the water depth even easier.

The valve:






Valve setup:





New water line:





All installed:





Cheers!


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## NYEric (Feb 6, 2018)

Looking good. I just put small aquarium pumps (Fluval 1's) in trays with water to circulate the water.


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## MaxC (Mar 20, 2020)

Curious about updates on people's experiences on recirculating water culture. Though not a recirculating system, what about using an aquarium pump and splitting the line (see attached) and oxygenating each individual plant thus eliminating the risks associated on a single large tray?


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## Ray (Mar 21, 2020)

Not sure what you're suggesting, Max. The airstone is to keep the water oxygenated. The water is still a shared bath. Putting air into individual pots does not change that.


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## MaxC (Mar 21, 2020)

Using a splitter on a single air pump you could split the one source of air into 12 lines and run each line into an individual saucer for each plant, no?


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## cnycharles (Mar 21, 2020)

Max, you are correct, a splitter would divide air into each pot separately. But ray is saying that having one source for all pots and having all water return to the same common area is potentially problematic. You could have a splitter and divide the water source to each individual pot and let the drain water escape or be discarded. Many greenhouse/nursery irrigation systems utilize this watering method but then it isn’t hydroponic or semi hydroponic irrigation, it’s simply highly directed irrigation. You could do this but collect the drain water and reuse, Ive thought of this but didn’t have time or place to do
https://www.horticulturesource.com/fresh/product/grodan-dutch-leach-tray-kit-6-x-40/

I have a grodan leach tray, here’s a kit for one, 13$. They are made to hold a slab of growing media and the water goes in and out the bottom. I modified by drilling a hole near the top of the tray and putting a bulkhead drain. The second tube that is meant as a drain, it goes back into the bucket which sits under the one end. The top drain also returns via the same end and down into the bucket. The drain line hooks into one of the elbowed fittings. I rotate up the fitting/line to raise the water line but mostly I want the water almost to fill the tray completely and go out of the top drain. Then the pump turns off via a timer and the water flows back into the reservoir in the tube from the pump.

I have a strong pump which could easily overflow the tub it’s pumping into. Since I live in a second floor apartment and this is in the living room that has carpet, and I’ve already had a kitchen sink overflow and mess up the ceiling below, I don’t have option for the tub overflowing and have built ability to help prevent this. Someone with this in a different setting and a gentler pump might not need to install the top drain, just adjust return line to get the proper fill level.

I also have a tub with a bulkhead fitting in the bottom. The water inflow tube comes up through the fitting, blocking most of the return water so the level rises. Pump turns off and all the water drains back down through the tube/pump and around the gaps between tube and drain fitting. The leach tray has phrags and other wet things and waters every day. The other one has different timer, and waters once a week.

Last year I was away two weeks and this worked sufficiently so that everything was fine when I returned. Some things might get a little more or less than they are comfortable with normally in a weekly or daily regimen, but for a vacation I watered well right before leaving and they get watered close enough for the rest of the time.

These could be adjusted differently, but I was having trouble finding tube line to fit the bulkhead drains and elbows etc, and since pots tip sometimes and potting media would try and jam drain tubes and openings I opted to not have return tubes on the bulkhead drains. But anyone could come up options that prevent clogging.

man option for people to use trays and water for their orchids could be to change their media to be more open, and/or use net pots for increased air. I’m sure phrags grow in very humid environments, and very wet, so it’s the need to have better air around the roots or have circulation/air stone. I think net pot would work with chunky perlite


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## MaxC (Mar 21, 2020)

Could you just put a check valve on each line and not to worry about back flow? Did not include that in my explanation.


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## eds (Mar 21, 2020)

MaxC said:


> Could you just put a check valve on each line and not to worry about back flow? Did not include that in my explanation.



Check valves increase the pressure on your air pump, shortening diaphragm life and the amount of air produced. The rubber also perishes so after a few years when your pump packs in the valve doesn't always work! Much better to site your pump above the water line to prevent a back syphon.


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## MaxC (Mar 21, 2020)

eds said:


> Check valves increase the pressure on your air pump, shortening diaphragm life and the amount of air produced. The rubber also perishes so after a few years when your pump packs in the valve doesn't always work! Much better to site your pump above the water line to prevent a back syphon.



Thank you Ed, good to know. I may try this at some point since it does not seem to be that difficult to rig up or cost very much. Which type of air stone would you potentially use (i.e. ceramic, glass/silica) ? I would be worried about potential salt accumulation.

I am leaning towards the volcano  (below) but not enough space.


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## eds (Mar 22, 2020)

It depends what you're trying to achieve. And please note my knowledge about air is in aquaria and ponds - not hydroponics. In aquaria and ponds air is used primarily to move water - it doesn't really oxygenate the water but, by moving the water, it brings new water to the air/water interface where gaseous exchange can occur.

Air inside a pipe can also be used very effectively to move water - I turned over a 5,000 gallon (real gallons not your little US ones!!! ) once an hour using just 35W air pump.

So cheaper airstones with larger bubbles give less back pressure and are cheap to replace as they start to block up over time.

If you are splitting the air into 12 you will need a pretty pokey air pump such as the large 35W types. If you're just trying to prevent stagnant water in a reservoir I'd use a smaller pump with a larger single airstone. If you do split the air supply you will need a valve on each line to regulate the flow otherwise it won't be balanced.


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## MaxC (Mar 23, 2020)

Goal is to provide close to ideal water conditions for a Phrag vittatum and other Phrags that will sit in standing water. Since the vittatum needs pure water not much I can do to give it a chemical boost but I can potentially give it a little movement in the water with an aquarium bubbler. 

(Our gallons are the perfect size, they are the same size as our plastic drinking glasses for coffee and soda pop.)


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## Ray (Mar 24, 2020)

Nothing is going to grow very well with just water.


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## MaxC (Mar 24, 2020)

There is some fertilizer but extremely infrequent and a top dressing of moss.


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## NYEric (Mar 31, 2020)

Max, I reduced the number of Phrags I grow sitting in water, it kind of destroyed my floors and I had a problem with condensation leaking down into my neighbor's ceiling. You can do either, move the water (water pump) or add air (air pump and filter stone). Just anticipate any growth and have equipment for the end result.


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## Gerryhain274 (Apr 12, 2020)

Good info


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## xiphius (May 8, 2020)

Somehow, I missed that this thread got revived. But it reminded me that I should probably give an update. Two years in and I am loving the recirculating water table! Pretty much everything in it is growing well. No issues with rotting so far (*knocks on wood*).




I never did get around to changing out the tub. I will eventually, but I just haven't found the time. I also need to change out my fluorescent tubes. I am seeing some plants starting to elongate a bit more than I would like, so I think the light output has probably dropped a bit too much (fewer flowers the past 6 months or so too). Growth has been great though. I actually don't really do a complete change of the water very often. Maybe only 1-2 times a year. Other than that, I just make sure to top it off as needed. I actually recently added a float valve and tied it directly in to my RO system to make that part easier and more automated. I was initially worried about salt buildup in the water, but that doesn't really seem to be much of an issue. Algal growth seems to take care of the excess mineral salts pretty handily. When I notice too much algae, I just scoop a bunch out and throw it in the garden. I do periodically rinse salts/algae off the exterior of the pots.



NYEric said:


> Max, I reduced the number of Phrags I grow sitting in water, it kind of destroyed my floors and I had a problem with condensation leaking down into my neighbor's ceiling. You can do either, move the water (water pump) or add air (air pump and filter stone). Just anticipate any growth and have equipment for the end result.



Ouch... bet that was a fun conversation to have with your downstairs neighbor . Yeah, it can be hard to have so much moisture inside. The basement I grow in now is all concrete, so it isn't as big of an issue. In my old apartment, my grow tent and misting system definitely created lots of mold issues that were difficult to keep under control. In the winter, I would get so much condensation on the inside of the windows in that room that it would actually create an ice dam inside the apartment on the windowsill on exceptionally cold days.


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## Ray (May 9, 2020)

A highjack for a humorous story:

I had a friend who was big into aquaria and plants. He had a tank water changer that squirted fresh water into the tank while simultaneously siphoning off some, allowing a slow transition to clean water without shocking the fish. The siphoned water was great for watering plants at the same time.

He was doing just that, enjoying a bit of “herbal refreshment” at the time, and fell asleep while watering a particularly large potted plant. He apparently slept for hours, the pot and tray overfilled early on, soaking his carpet and running under the walls to the apartments on either side, plus draining into the one below.

His new apartment was, at least, nicer...


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## xiphius (May 9, 2020)

Ray said:


> He apparently slept for hours, the pot and tray overfilled early on, soaking his carpet and running under the walls to the apartments on either side, plus draining into the one below.



Yup... this is exactly why when I used to fill buckets directly from my RO system, I always set them in the tub. That way, if I forgot about them, at least it was just running down the drain. Then I finally bit the bullet and got a storage tank because I got tired of forgetting about buckets in the tub .


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## rwalsh (May 9, 2020)

My R/O is set to go to a livestock water tank valve (from Fleet Farm) attached to a seven gallon plastic bucket, set on top of a laundry tub. R/O wastes a lot of water as a by product besides the damage it can cause overflowing.


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## eds (May 9, 2020)

I've got an auto shut off kit to fill my 100l barrel. I only turn it on to fill when the barrel is empty though so the system isn't constantly topping up with little bits of water.

As well as filling the barrel for orchid and succulent watering, I also use the RO for an Amazonian aquarium. The waste water from this goes into an outdoor pond.

All the RO waste goes into my 1,000l Malawi aquarium and this then overflows to the outdoor pond.

The rainwater from most of the house roof is also diverted into the pond.

The pond overflows into a water butt to use for watering outdoor plants and then this butt overflows into a big garden.

Not a drop is wasted!


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## Linus_Cello (May 9, 2020)

Can we see your amazon and cichlid tank?


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## eds (May 9, 2020)

The Amazonian tank is still being set up but will take photos of the Malawi tank tomorrow and post in the non-orchids section.


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## Linus_Cello (May 9, 2020)

What’s going to be in the Amazon tank? My dream tank is Asian arowanna with black diamond stingrays


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## xiphius (May 9, 2020)

eds said:


> I've got an auto shut off kit to fill my 100l barrel. I only turn it on to fill when the barrel is empty though so the system isn't constantly topping up with little bits of water.
> 
> As well as filling the barrel for orchid and succulent watering, I also use the RO for an Amazonian aquarium. The waste water from this goes into an outdoor pond.
> 
> ...



Yeah, eventually I would like to do something like this. RO does waste a lot of water which is perfectly fine for other things. I also dabble with aquariums, but don't currently have one large enough to bother trying to tie it in. Looking forward to pics of your tanks!


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## xiphius (May 9, 2020)

Linus_Cello said:


> What’s going to be in the Amazon tank? My dream tank is Asian arowanna with black diamond stingrays



Ambitious! I like it! That's gonna need a lot of space though...


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## eds (May 9, 2020)

Linus_Cello said:


> What’s going to be in the Amazon tank? My dream tank is Asian arowanna with black diamond stingrays



The tank is 'only' 5ft long but nearly 3ft wide and 2ft deep. It'll have 4 other tanks linked in with quarantine and filtration so overall volume will be a little over 1,000 litres.

It will have wild or F1 angelfish, wild-type discus, catfish, tetras with a few pairs of dwarf cichlids. These might be the one thing that breaks the South American rule though - I fancy 2 or 3 pairs of Nanochromis transvestitus from West Africa.

It's going to have an open top with branches coming in and out of the water with some orchids and other plants out of the water in a riparium-style. This is one reason why it's taking so long to set up!


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## Linus_Cello (May 9, 2020)

Altum angels? P. leopoldii? Heckel discus? Any fancy plecos? (I’m growing up an L14)


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## eds (May 10, 2020)

After ruining the op's thread enough, I've popped an answer on the thread I created in hobbies and critters,
https://www.slippertalk.com/threads/my-aquaria.49427/#post-686532


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