# Cymbidium goeringii "Mangetsu" 日本春蘭「満月」-plucking flower buds.



## jokerpass (Sep 3, 2021)

This C. goeringii variety is very floriforous, produced 8 flowers April 2021 and 3 flowers April 2020. This year, produced 4 flower buds. To save energy, as recommended by my Japanese Cymbidium vendor, I decided to pluck all 4 flower buds, so there will be more new vigorous new growths next year. Last picture is the flower picture. Because I decided not to flower them this season, I did not shade the buds, so the buds are green (supposed to be white when you shade the buds) and the flower sheath has a tough texture (flower sheath has a soft texture when you shade). It is still a bit early but almost all C. goeringii in the collection has buds again this year, The coloured varieites I decided to keep the buds are shaded since mid August.


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## abax (Sep 3, 2021)

Do you grow ensifoliums as well as goeringi?


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## jokerpass (Sep 3, 2021)

I only grow Cymbidium goeringii because it is probably the most challenging to grow and bloom. I only grow C. goeringii because it is the smallest (size wise). Also, C. goeringii appears to be the most mysterious one to the Western world. My Taiwanese East Asian Cymbidium vendor told me that if you follow C. goeringii culture and can grow and bloom successfully, you will be able to grow and bloom any east asian cymbidiums you want. To grow other East Asian Cymbidiums including C. ensifolium, C. sinense, C. kanran, and C. faberii, the general cultural points (potting mix, light, temp (except winter), watering schedule and techniques, and humidity) are the same. The only major difference between C. goeringii and C. ensfolium is the temperature requirement. C. ensifolium requires high intermediate to low warm temp range in spring and fall (20C-25C), warm to hot temp range in the summer (25C-30C), and in the winter time intermediate range (15C-20C). Everything else (watering technique, potting mix, lighting, and humidity) are all the same. It is the easiest East Asian Cymbidiums to grow and bloom. I bloomed C. ensifolium many many years ago when I was a beginner orchid grower like more than 15 years old. Without knowing the proper techniques and conditions, I bloomed it every year. I got rid of it one year at the local orchid show because it was way too big (10 inch pot).


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## Happypaphy7 (Dec 10, 2021)

It is indeed the different temperature ranges requirement that separate these Cymbidiums although they can all be grown the same way provided that the winter minimum temperature is well above the freezing point as ensifolium and sinense are nowhere as winter hardy as Cymbidium goeringii which is the hardiest of these, which makes them easiest one to deal with depending on what climate a grower lives in. 
But you are into cool varieties that take fine tuning for proper flower development, so that is the challenge.

Both Cymbidium goeringii and Karan are native species in my country of South Korea. Karan only occurs in the subtropic island of Jeju while goeringii occurs in this island and way up north to about middle of the country where the January average temp is 0-2C. Jeju is significanly warmer than this.
Even in Japan, Karan occurs in Shikoku, Kyushu and way down south in Okinawa. There is a colony found in Honshu but along the coastal line and a lot further down from Tokyo Yokohama area. So, I would expect much milder climate than what people would consider typical of Honshu.


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## Linus_Cello (Dec 10, 2021)

Is there a hybrid of C. goeringii x Karan?


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## jokerpass (Dec 10, 2021)

Linus_Cello said:


> Is there a hybrid of C. goeringii x Karan?


Yes there is.


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## jokerpass (Dec 10, 2021)

Happypaphy7 said:


> It is indeed the different temperature ranges requirement that separate these Cymbidiums although they can all be grown the same way provided that the winter minimum temperature is well above the freezing point as ensifolium and sinense are nowhere as winter hardy as Cymbidium goeringii which is the hardiest of these, which makes them easiest one to deal with depending on what climate a grower lives in.
> But you are into cool varieties that take fine tuning for proper flower development, so that is the challenge.
> 
> Both Cymbidium goeringii and Karan are native species in my country of South Korea. Karan only occurs in the subtropic island of Jeju while goeringii occurs in this island and way up north to about middle of the country where the January average temp is 0-2C. Jeju is significanly warmer than this.
> Even in Japan, Karan occurs in Shikoku, Kyushu and way down south in Okinawa. There is a colony found in Honshu but along the coastal line and a lot further down from Tokyo Yokohama area. So, I would expect much milder climate than what people would consider typical of Honshu.



Yes, Cymbidium goeringii and Cymbidium kanran are native to China, Korea, and Japan. Korean and Japanese varieites are more hardy (just above freezing) but takes longer for the buds to develop than the Chinese varieties (both Korean and Japanese varieites require a more consistent low temp and longer period of vernalization than Chinese C. goeringii). In Korea, Japan, and Shanghai region of China, they get the winter requirements naturally but I think it's very hard to replicate anywhere else.

Yes, Cymbidium kanran grows further south than C. goeringii. So it can take a higher temp in the winter to winterize. They bud in the fall and will bloom before Christmas, no near freezing temp is required to bloom C. kanran. However, it's better to winterize them (after blooming) just above freezing (dryer conditions) during rest. There are 2 types of C. kanran, broad leaf and thin leaf. Generally speaking, the thin leaf varieties are more hardy than the broad leaf varieties.


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## Ozpaph (Dec 10, 2021)

I would have trouble pulling out all the buds


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## jokerpass (Dec 10, 2021)

Ozpaph said:


> I would have trouble pulling out all the buds


The plant bloomed too much last year. You are not supposed to bloom it every year, it's not good. It is a standard practice to pluck the buds from C. goeringii.


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## Linus_Cello (Dec 11, 2021)

jokerpass said:


> The plant bloomed too much last year. You are not supposed to bloom it every year, it's not good. It is a standard practice to pluck the buds from C. goeringii.



Can you stop plucking the buds once the plant gets to a large multigrowth size?


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## BrucherT (Dec 11, 2021)

jokerpass said:


> This C. goeringii variety is very floriforous, produced 8 flowers April 2021 and 3 flowers April 2020. This year, produced 4 flower buds. To save energy, as recommended by my Japanese Cymbidium vendor, I decided to pluck all 4 flower buds, so there will be more new vigorous new growths next year. Last picture is the flower picture. Because I decided not to flower them this season, I did not shade the buds, so the buds are green (supposed to be white when you shade the buds) and the flower sheath has a tough texture (flower sheath has a soft texture when you shade). It is still a bit early but almost all C. goeringii in the collection has buds again this year, The coloured varieites I decided to keep the buds are shaded since mid August.


Once again, my kanran and goeringii have died. You are the only person in the west that I have seen grow them. I still don’t know why they die; they simply brown and die within a few months of arriving. They never have a chance to acclimate. I grow many other orchids, including thriving C. ensifolium, which is very easy with summering outdoors. 14 spikes on my big one this year! I will try again with goeringii and kanran even though it feels hopeless.


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## jokerpass (Dec 11, 2021)

BrucherT said:


> Once again, my kanran and goeringii have died. You are the only person in the west that I have seen grow them. I still don’t know why they die; they simply brown and die within a few months of arriving. They never have a chance to acclimate. I grow many other orchids, including thriving C. ensifolium, which is very easy with summering outdoors. 14 spikes on my big one this year! I will try again with goeringii and kanran even though it feels hopeless.



C. ensifolium is probably okay with a regular bark mix. and even without following the traditional method, it will probably be okay. However, it will not work with C. goeringii. C. goeringii requires very specific conditions (and harsh conditions in the winter) with specific instructions, not a flexible species. People who don't follow instructions will not succeed with C. goeringii.

It took me a few tries and once I follow instructions as close as possible, they are all okay.

It is complicated, I have a video on youtube, I don't know if you have seen it already or not. It has all the instructions you need to grow C. goeringii (and not killing it).


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## jokerpass (Dec 12, 2021)

BrucherT said:


> Once again, my kanran and goeringii have died. You are the only person in the west that I have seen grow them. I still don’t know why they die; they simply brown and die within a few months of arriving. They never have a chance to acclimate. I grow many other orchids, including thriving C. ensifolium, which is very easy with summering outdoors. 14 spikes on my big one this year! I will try again with goeringii and kanran even though it feels hopeless.


I know a few people (1 in Canada, 1 in California, and 1 in Europe) who follow my intructions as close as possible, the person in Europe and the person in Canada all bloomed beautifully. The guy in California, followed my instructions showed me the pictures of his fat and juicy buds on 3-4 Japanese C. goeringii last month. He could not bud them before. Since he lives in California, I am not sure if he can bloom them.

To grow C. goeringii, these kind of people would fail miserably:

1. people who have their own thinking and don't like to follow instructions
2. people who think they know how to grow C goeringii and are very opinionated
3. people who don't like to be told what to do.

I have encountered people mentioned above and so far, either they killed them, bloomed with low success rate (3-4 plants out of 30 plants bloomed is a very low blooming rate), or still no bloom. This is my experience so far.


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## BrucherT (Dec 13, 2021)

jokerpass said:


> C. ensifolium is probably okay with a regular bark mix. and even without following the traditional method, it will probably be okay. However, it will not work with C. goeringii. C. goeringii requires very specific conditions (and harsh conditions in the winter) with specific instructions, not a flexible species. People who don't follow instructions will not succeed with C. goeringii.
> 
> It took me a few tries and once I follow instructions as close as possible, they are all okay.
> 
> It is complicated, I have a video on youtube, I don't know if you have seen it already or not. It has all the instructions you need to grow C. goeringii (and not killing it).


I have not seen your video! I will wait and try again with a fall order. My last order was supposed to be fall but due to COVID, it arrived in spring.


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## BrucherT (Dec 13, 2021)

jokerpass said:


> I know a few people (1 in Canada, 1 in California, and 1 in Europe) who follow my intructions as close as possible, the person in Europe and the person in Canada all bloomed beautifully. The guy in California, followed my instructions showed me the pictures of his fat and juicy buds on 3-4 Japanese C. goeringii last month. He could not bud them before. Since he lives in California, I am not sure if he can bloom them.
> 
> To grow C. goeringii, these kind of people would fail miserably:
> 
> ...


I don’t ever care if they bloom at this point, if they’ll just frickin’ stop dying.


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## Linus_Cello (Dec 13, 2021)

BrucherT said:


> I have not seen your video! I will wait and try again with a fall order. My last order was supposed to be fall but due to COVID, it arrived in spring.



I think the video (on YT) that was mentioned: "An Introduction to East Asian Cymbidiums" - YouTube


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## jokerpass (Dec 13, 2021)

BrucherT said:


> I have not seen your video! I will wait and try again with a fall order. My last order was supposed to be fall but due to COVID, it arrived in spring.


It's better to get them in the spring and to have a high survival rate, the plant must have good roots. With the Japanese Mix, I am able to save a rootless C. goeringii in 1 season; however, this plant has not bloomed for me yet (The root is probably not good enough yet). Since you will not be able to get the plants until the spring, my recommendation now is to find the materials for the potting mix. I know in the US, it is possible to get individual components and you have to make it yourself (the components are hard kanuma, baked akadama, and satsuma). If you cannot get hard kanuma, regular kanuma should be okay. From what I understand, baked akadama may not be available in the US. If all you can get is regular akadama, make sure you only buy large and medium grade, you can forget about small and fine grades, they break/crumble too easily.


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## jokerpass (Dec 13, 2021)

Linus_Cello said:


> I think the video (on YT) that was mentioned: "An Introduction to East Asian Cymbidiums" - YouTube


yes, that's the one. The video should give anyone the basic knowledge and guideline on how to grow any East Asian Cymbidiums. There is a focus on C. goeringii in the presentation, so it should provide all the information you need to know to keep them alive.


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## BrucherT (Dec 13, 2021)

jokerpass said:


> It's better to get them in the spring and to have a high survival rate, the plant must have good roots. With the Japanese Mix, I am able to save a rootless C. goeringii in 1 season; however, this plant has not bloomed for me yet (The root is probably not good enough yet). Since you will not be able to get the plants until the spring, my recommendation now is to find the materials for the potting mix. I know in the US, it is possible to get individual components and you have to make it yourself (the components are hard kanuma, baked akadama, and satsuma). If you cannot get hard kanuma, regular kanuma should be okay. From what I understand, baked akadama may not be available in the US. If all you can get is regular akadama, make sure you only buy large and medium grade, you can forget about small and fine grades, they break/crumble too easily.


I have received all my goeringii and kanran in the spring and all died. I want to try a fall delivery and maybe that will give them a chance to establish before the heat. 4 tries in spring seems like enough.

The directions on the mixes have been daunting. Those names apply to different substances, to different people. I have no way to know what’s good or bad. No reference points. I have kanuma and pumice from Japan. Even talking about this is just demoralizing. I’ve spent many hours trying to track down correct ingredients and recipes and I have bags of this and that all over but ultimately the plants die before they get a chance to take hold. There’s a reason no one grows these in the U.S. despite their extraordinary beauty and charm. I’ll try again because I’m smitten with them but it is absolutely baffling how difficult they are. I’m always glad for your success.


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## jokerpass (Dec 13, 2021)

BrucherT said:


> I have received all my goeringii and kanran in the spring and all died. I want to try a fall delivery and maybe that will give them a chance to establish before the heat. 4 tries in spring seems like enough.
> 
> The directions on the mixes have been daunting. Those names apply to different substances, to different people. I have no way to know what’s good or bad. No reference points. I have kanuma and pumice from Japan. Even talking about this is just demoralizing. I’ve spent many hours trying to track down correct ingredients and recipes and I have bags of this and that all over but ultimately the plants die before they get a chance to take hold. There’s a reason no one grows these in the U.S. despite their extraordinary beauty and charm. I’ll try again because I’m smitten with them but it is absolutely baffling how difficult they are. I’m always glad for your success.



I have no problem providing more guidance and coach to your C. goeringii cultural concerns. You know where to find me on facebook, and you can pm me. I suspect that other than the pottng mix, there is something not right about your set up. We can discuss more of this when I receive your pm on facebook. However, the first step to grow C. goeringii, you need to have the proper/correct potting mix, this is extremely critical.

For the potting mix: Here is a list of components that you can find in the US. in English and Japanese (you should always check/match with the Japanese description).

鹿沼土 (Kanuma)
硬質鹿沼土 (Hard Kanuma)

日向土（Hyuuga/Hyuga)

赤玉土 (Akadama)

焼き赤玉土 (baked Akadama)

薩摩土 (Satsuma). As Japanese can have problems with Kanji (Chinese characters), sometimes, on the bag, it can be written as さつま土 or can be written as サツマ土, but it's the same thing.

sizes: large (大粒）medium (中粒）small (小粒）fine (化粧砂 or can be written as 細粒）

I know the ratio of the pumice blend as described in many C. goeringii books. I can do it myself if I want to but it's a lot of work, so I buy ready-mixed in Japan. In North America, it's not possible, so you have to make a blend yourself. People who I coached in California and in Europe all grow their C. goeringii well in the mix they blend by themselves. Both guys were able to find most of the components. I believe in the European guy cannot find one of the component and he found another pumice with similar properties. 

If you cannot find Hard Kanuma in the US, you can use Hyuuga as a substitute as Hard Kanuma, these 2 pumices have very similar properties.

The most important size is the medium size as it is used to fill 80% of the pot.


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## Linus_Cello (Dec 14, 2021)

Is this the same as "Hard Kanuma"? 
Kanuma — Kusamono Gardens


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## jokerpass (Dec 14, 2021)

I


Linus_Cello said:


> Is this the same as "Hard Kanuma"?
> Kanuma — Kusamono Gardens


It is not possible to know with the picture you showed me. You have to ask the vendor for the original packaging from japan and take a picture of the original packaging. Many US vendors buy very large quantities from japan all these pumices and then repackage them into smaller packs and resell it for higher. Please ask for the original packaging! You have the Kanji in the previous post to match.


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## jokerpass (Dec 14, 2021)

Linus_Cello said:


> Is this the same as "Hard Kanuma"?
> Kanuma — Kusamono Gardens


This place has baked akadama and hard kanuma (from original Japanese packaging). They also have Hyuuga (but since they already have hard kanuma, so hyuuga is not needed)




__





Soil - Page 2 - House of Bonsai







www.houseofbonsai.com





house of bonsai. 

I don't see satsuma, so you have to search more.


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## BrucherT (Dec 15, 2021)

jokerpass said:


> This place has baked akadama and hard kanuma (from original Japanese packaging). They also have Hyuuga (but since they already have hard kanuma, so hyuuga is not needed)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I also bought from Kusamomo. You can only order once a year and it’s like a year in advance.


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## spes1959 (Jan 23, 2022)

jokerpass said:


> I have no problem providing more guidance and coach to your C. goeringii cultural concerns. You know where to find me on facebook, and you can pm me. I suspect that other than the pottng mix, there is something not right about your set up. We can discuss more of this when I receive your pm on facebook. However, the first step to grow C. goeringii, you need to have the proper/correct potting mix, this is extremely critical.
> 
> For the potting mix: Here is a list of components that you can find in the US. in English and Japanese (you should always check/match with the Japanese description).
> 
> ...


Hi Jokerpass I live in Italy and I don't have much experience with Chinese Cymbidiums. I would like to start with C. ensifolium which I have read to be the easiest to grow. Not finding in Italy the original potTing mix I ask you with what can I replace it to get closer? Thanks for the help you can give me.
add that I have Found only medium and little Akadana and Kanuma but not the third component.


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## jokerpass (Jan 24, 2022)

spes1959 said:


> Hi Jokerpass I live in Italy and I don't have much experience with Chinese Cymbidiums. I would like to start with C. ensifolium which I have read to be the easiest to grow. Not finding in Italy the original potTing mix I ask you with what can I replace it to get closer? Thanks for the help you can give me.
> add that I have Found only medium and little Akadana and Kanuma but not the third component.


Hi Spes1959: It's good that you found akadama and kanuma. For the third pumice, you can either use Hyuuga pumice or Satsuma pumice. I know that Riccardo Senesi grows his C. goeringii beautifully. He is Italian and I remember he told me that he had to substutite at least one components that he found locally. He has a facebook account and you should ask him for details. You can mention that Michael suggested you to contact him for the potting mix information.

There is another way. I have seen quite a few people in North America (US and Canada) who use 50% bark (medium/small bark) and 50% pumice (medium/small pumice). But from what I see (other people's results), it's hit and miss.


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## spes1959 (Jan 24, 2022)

Thank you very much Jokerpass for the advice and for pointing me to Riccardo Senesi as a farmer in oriental Cymbidiem. he lives in Florence just like me and is already a friend of mine on Facebook. I will definitely contact him and if you don't mind I will come back to bother you for some other advice.


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## jokerpass (Jan 24, 2022)

spes1959 said:


> Thank you very much Jokerpass for the advice and for pointing me to Riccardo Senesi as a farmer in oriental Cymbidiem. he lives in Florence just like me and is already a friend of mine on Facebook. I will definitely contact him and if you don't mind I will come back to bother you for some other advice.



No problem. The Cymbidium potting he uses will work for all East Asian Cymbidiums including Cym. ensifolium.


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## TropiCool (Jan 24, 2022)

Perhaps you can share the recipe on here for others growing in Europe as well?


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## jokerpass (Jan 24, 2022)

I buy premixed bags from Japan, it's already mixed, I don't know the precise ratio. I just know that the mix contains three kinds of pumices: Hard Kanuma (not regular kanuma), Baked Akadama (not regular akadama), and Hyuuga/or Satsuma (these 2 pumices are interchangeable). The general ratio is the same but each vendor recipe is different slightly. The mix comes in 4 sizes, Large, Medium, Small, and Fine and this is how I pot them.

The proper method to pot these East Asian Cymbidiums is the following:

Large Grade Mix: bottom 10% of the pot

Medium Grade Mix: 80% of the pot (the main body of the pot)

Small Grade Mix: top 10% of the pot

When potted correctly, the newest pseudobulb should be 1/3-1/2 covered. If the whole pseudobulb is completely exposed, it is potte too high, it will never bloom or not bloom well because it's losing too much water/moisture.

What recipe are you looking for?


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## spes1959 (Mar 3, 2022)

jokerpass said:


> It's better to get them in the spring and to have a high survival rate, the plant must have good roots. With the Japanese Mix, I am able to save a rootless C. goeringii in 1 season; however, this plant has not bloomed for me yet (The root is probably not good enough yet). Since you will not be able to get the plants until the spring, my recommendation now is to find the materials for the potting mix. I know in the US, it is possible to get individual components and you have to make it yourself (the components are hard kanuma, baked akadama, and satsuma). If you cannot get hard kanuma, regular kanuma should be okay. From what I understand, baked akadama may not be available in the US. If all you can get is regular akadama, make sure you only buy large and medium grade, you can forget about small and fine grades, they break/crumble too easily.


I have already read your advice to fertilize must a little these Cymbidium and I plan to add 4or 5 pellet balls in the spring. But I ask you if you think adding algae extracts like Kelpak could be positive or not. Thank you


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## jokerpass (Mar 3, 2022)

spes1959 said:


> I have already read your advice to fertilize must a little these Cymbidium and I plan to add 4or 5 pellet balls in the spring. But I ask you if you think adding algae extracts like Kelpak could be positive or not. Thank you


Do not add anything extra. If you add any growth hormones, you will never bloom it. One of the C. goeringii books I read, the author said that if you add any growth hormones, you will set the plant back at least 3 years (meaning it will keep growing but will never bloom). I don't know why but that's what the book says, so I follow.


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## jokerpass (Mar 3, 2022)

jokerpass said:


> Do not add anything extra. If you add any growth hormones, you will never bloom it. One of the C. goeringii books I read, the author said that if you add any growth hormones, you will set the plant back at least 3 years (meaning it will keep growing but will never bloom). I don't know why but that's what the book says, so I follow. In fact, my vendor said that you can bloom these cymbidiums without a single drop of fertilizer. When I receive the plant bareroot from Japan, I don't fertlize first year (rule of thumb is never fertilize the plant 1st year when you receive them). you can start fertlizing after that. In fact, the plants that I didn't fertilze the first year, they all bloom the following spring.


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## spes1959 (Mar 4, 2022)

Thank you very much


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## spes1959 (Mar 8, 2022)

hi jokerpass i followed your youtube course on oriental Cymbidiums and i would like to ask you how much sun they can get from october to april


jokerpass said:


> I have no problem providing more guidance and coach to your C. goeringii cultural concerns. You know where to find me on facebook, and you can pm me. I suspect that other than the pottng mix, there is something not right about your set up. We can discuss more of this when I receive your pm on facebook. However, the first step to grow C. goeringii, you need to have the proper/correct potting mix, this is extremely critical.
> 
> For the potting mix: Here is a list of components that you can find in the US. in English and Japanese (you should always check/match with the Japanese description).
> 
> ...


Hi jokerpass i followed your youtube course on oriental Cymbidiums and i would like to ask you how much sun they can get from october to april


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## jokerpass (Mar 8, 2022)

spes1959 said:


> hi jokerpass i followed your youtube course on oriental Cymbidiums and i would like to ask you how much sun they can get from october to april
> 
> Hi jokerpass i followed your youtube course on oriental Cymbidiums and i would like to ask you how much sun they can get from october to april



Throughout the year, only morning sun (no direct sunlight after 11:30am or noon). I don't know where you live, but you need to grow them outdoor as much as possible. I live in Toronto Canada, so it's only possible to grow them outddor from early May to early November. From early November to end of April, I grow them in a basement room underlight. if you can grow them outdoor all year round, here are the light requirements:

Spring (March, April, May): 75% shade

Summer (June, July, August): 90% shade

Fall (Sept, October, November); 75% shade

Winter (December, January, February): 50% shade

This is the general rule of thumb. However, some varieites (especially highly variegated varieties with little cholorophyll), you have to give them a shadier condition


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## spes1959 (Mar 8, 2022)

jokerpass said:


> Throughout the year, only morning sun (no direct sunlight after 11:30am or noon). I don't know where you live, but you need to grow them outdoor as much as possible. I live in Toronto Canada, so it's only possible to grow them outddor from early May to early November. From early November to end of April, I grow them in a basement room underlight. if you can grow them outdoor all year round, here are the light requirements:
> 
> Spring (March, April, May): 75% shade
> 
> ...


I live in Florence (Italy) and grow my classic Cymbidiums on a south-west facing terrace. The minimum temperature is rarely below freezing and in this case I cover them with non-woven fabric. Only Cymbidium aloifolium stays in the colder months (November-April) in a glassed-in veranda always with south-west exposure.


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## jokerpass (Mar 8, 2022)

spes1959 said:


> I live in Florence (Italy) and grow my classic Cymbidiums on a south-west facing terrace. The minimum temperature is rarely below freezing and in this case I cover them with non-woven fabric. Only Cymbidium aloifolium stays in the colder months (November-April) in a glassed-in veranda always with south-west exposure.


From what I understand, Florence stays just above freezing in the winter time? C. goeringii requires 0C-10C at all times in the winter months. Do you know Riccardo Senesi? You can find him on facebook and just tell him that Michael Hwang suggests that you connect with him. He lives in Florence as well and I believe that he grows outdoor all year round. You should talk to him how he sets up his C. goeringii growing area. He bloomed his Mebina beautifully for the last 2 years. I think it is better to talk to him because he lives in Florence and knows the weather pattern. Also, I remember that Riccardo waters more frequently than I do (what I said in the presentation) because Florence has a very different weather pattern than Toronto, Canada (my growing condtions/protocols is optimized for East Coast Canada/USA, not for Florence) so your watering schedule will be verry different than mine.


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## jokerpass (Mar 8, 2022)

spes1959 said:


> I live in Florence (Italy) and grow my classic Cymbidiums on a south-west facing terrace. The minimum temperature is rarely below freezing and in this case I cover them with non-woven fabric. Only Cymbidium aloifolium stays in the colder months (November-April) in a glassed-in veranda always with south-west exposure.


I forgot to mention that whatever you know about classic Cymbidium culture, you can throw them into garbage. The cultural rules don't apply to C. goeringii or any other East Asian Cymbidiums (C. ensifolium, C. sinense, C. kanrna, C. faberi). If you grow these East Asian Cymbidiums with your classic Cymbidiums (Standard or Miniature) on a south west facing terrace, it will be 100% kill. From Facebook, I know that California is a perfect place to grow these Classic Cymbidiums but I an still waiting to see someone who can successfully grow and blom a C goeringii from California.


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## spes1959 (Mar 8, 2022)

jokerpass said:


> I forgot to mention that whatever you know about classic Cymbidium culture, you can throw them into garbage. The cultural rules don't apply to C. goeringii or any other East Asian Cymbidiums (C. ensifolium, C. sinense, C. kanrna, C. faberi). If you grow these East Asian Cymbidiums with your classic Cymbidiums (Standard or Miniature) on a south west facing terrace, it will be 100% kill. From Facebook, I know that California is a perfect place to grow these Classic Cymbidiums but I an still waiting to see someone who can successfully grow and blom a C goeringii from California.


thanks for the reply Michael, you are very kind. I have already contacted Riccardo who lives two kilometers from my house. for the moment I want to grow only Cymbidium ensifolium and sinense. if I'm good then I'll go to Goeringii too. Thanks for all the advice you have given me, I will treasure it.
p.s. I have another little North facing terrace and I Will grow my ensifolium and sinense there hoping not to kill them


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## jokerpass (Mar 8, 2022)

spes1959 said:


> thanks for the reply Michael, you are very kind. I have already contacted Riccardo who lives two kilometers from my house. for the moment I want to grow only Cymbidium ensifolium and sinense. if I'm good then I'll go to Goeringii too. Thanks for all the advice you have given me, I will treasure it.
> p.s. I have another little North facing terrace and I Will grow my ensifolium and sinense there hoping not to kill them


The general culturing methods for C. goeringii applies for all East Asian Cymbidiums including C. ensifolium and C. sinense (ie light requirements, watering interval, temp during growing season). The only major difference is winter temp. For C. ensifolium, winter temp should be no lower than 15C ( I would keep it between 15C-20C). For C. sinense, winter temp should be no lower than 10C (I would keep it 10C-15C). Both C. ensifolium and C. sinense are considered as the "broadleaf" type Asian Cymbidiums and they can be grown together. They are easier and a bit more flexible than C. goeringii.


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