# How to know when to harvest a pod and where can I get it flasked in Canada?



## Paph_LdyMacBeth (Jun 3, 2016)

Hello all,

I have a paph cross (brachy type) that I made a few months ago with the anticipation that a friend of mine would flask them for me. The pod is getting nice and fat, but still green. 
Fast forward to yesterday and the friend informed me they are not able to accommodate any further flasking with their new job.  

Can anyone advise me on flasking services in Canada (preferably Ontario) where I can have this done?

Also, how do I know if its ready to be harvested?


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## Ray (Jun 3, 2016)

Can't help with the "who", but for the "when", I have always subscribed to keeping a close eye on the capsule, and the moment either end starts to turn the slightest degree of yellow, it's time to harvest.


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## JAB (Jun 3, 2016)

Good advice Ray.


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## edkravcik (Jun 3, 2016)

I have not used them and they are newly opened but you could try http://www.theorchidfarm.com

The website indicated they do custom flasking and they are in Ontario


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## NYEric (Jun 4, 2016)

Good luck. It's hard to find a lab to make flasks here in the USA.


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## JAB (Jun 4, 2016)

Who do the pros use? Sam? Quintals? Etc?


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## Happypaphy7 (Jun 4, 2016)

When to know to harvest is my question also as I have a few capsules going, although I'm not sure if they are all good. 

Only one is very fat. 
Are capsules that are not so fat still good? I guess only going forward with the whole process will tell at the lab level??


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## fibre (Jun 4, 2016)

I got very fat capsules without viable seed and capsules without any sign of swelling that produced lots of good seeds. 

This is my experience for some Brachys. The capsules usually split after 7 month for thaianum, 9 month for niveum and 8-9 month for godefroyae. But of course it belongs to your conditions too...


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## Happypaphy7 (Jun 5, 2016)

That is great to know! 
I almost pinched off and threw away some. lol
And now, I shouldn't be too excited about the very fat ones, then.


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## eteson (Jun 9, 2016)

I usaully sow dry seed so i let the seedpod to open naturally. For most part of the species it works very fine. Also I can store the seed to complete 15-20 crosses to sow all of them at the same time... and to keep a backup of the cross.


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## gonewild (Jun 9, 2016)

eteson said:


> I usaully sow dry seed so i let the seedpod to open naturally. For most part of the species it works very fine. Also I can store the seed to complete 15-20 crosses to sow all of them at the same time... and to keep a backup of the cross.



How long have you stored seed? (and it remained viable)


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## fibre (Jun 9, 2016)

... and what are the conditions of your storing?


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## Kawarthapine (Jun 28, 2016)

The Orchid Farm has let thei url expire and repeated attempts to reach them to flask several species have not been returned in the past several months.

I think their plans to expand a preexisting nursery business (at least this is what I was told) have failed.


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## eteson (Jun 29, 2016)

Lance: I do have viable seed that has been stored for 5 or more years. for example a Phrag. lindenii cross is germinating from seed stored from 2009.
Fibre: I dry the seed using Calcium Chloride for 7 days then put it in a small sealed vial with some silica gel and strore at 4 Celsius.


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## gonewild (Jun 29, 2016)

eteson said:


> Lance: I do have viable seed that has been stored for 5 or more years. for example a Phrag. lindenii cross is germinating from seed stored from 2009.
> Fibre: I dry the seed using Calcium Chloride for 7 days then put it in a small sealed vial with some silica gel and strore at 4 Celsius.



Thanks.
How do you dry the seed with the calcium chloride?


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## fibre (Jun 29, 2016)

5 years! What a long time!
...and thanks a lot for the info about storing the seed.


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## eteson (Jun 29, 2016)

This is my setup. Calcium Chloride is in the bottom of the big jar and the seeds in the upper part, on top of the net, inside of small paper envelopes.


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