# Dyna-gro K-L-N rooting



## neno747 (Aug 25, 2011)

Hello, to all, I have a plant with little roots and decide of dyna-gro k-L-N I wanted to know as it is used and how many grams of product for liter, how many times are used, is used alone or with other products.

Thanks and hello


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## eggshells (Aug 25, 2011)

I use a quarter strength in 1 gallon of water. So 1/4 tsp. per gal once a month. If a plant needs to be rescued and have no roots. I soak it to a 1/2 tsp per gallon solution of KLN.


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## goldenrose (Aug 25, 2011)

KNL was recommended when my hubby & I were involved in bonsai. Not sure if it made a difference but I'm sure we used it more than once a month, different for orchids? I would think a plant would need it more often than once a month - the old weakly, weekly?
.... or should I be using the mentality - here's a shot, like it? go out & find it roots!


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## Justin (Aug 25, 2011)

I have not had success with IBA rooting hormones for paphs.


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## neno747 (Aug 25, 2011)

Thanks, on 1 liter of water how many ml/l of KLM, once a month or more often and moreover it is someone that uses Dyna-grow 7-9-5 how many ml/l always for paphiopedilum. Thanks


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## eggshells (Aug 25, 2011)

I am using dynagro "grow" which is 7-9-5. I use 1/2 tsp per gallon which yield 110ppm give or take. I also water 3x a week this summer. I only use K-L-N once or twice a month on established plant.

I forgot to metion that I use RO water.


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## Rick (Aug 28, 2011)

I think it depends on why the plant has no roots.

If this is a division or keiki from an otherwise healthy plant the KLN will work good as directed.

However if the plant was healthy and lost it roots to "rot" then adding more K to a plant that is probably overloaded with K already will not be much of a help.

Changing out the potting media (especially with sphagnum moss) and using a rooting media will often jump-start root growth. KLN may not even be a good start to get the first roots out. But back down quick and get more Ca and Mg to the plant (and potting media) before it builds up excess K and stops all the new growth.


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## Ray (Aug 29, 2011)

Rick, I don't think there's enough potassium in K-L-N to make any difference.

The fertilizer components are only there because the mineral salts of the rooting hormones are more soluble than the straight stuff.

At full strength, its fertilizer components are equivalent to 0.009-0.011-0.006, which is on-par with the diluted fertilizers we typically apply. Dilute it to usable rates, and it's infinitesimal.


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## Rick (Aug 29, 2011)

Ray said:


> Rick, I don't think there's enough potassium in K-L-N to make any difference.
> 
> The fertilizer components are only there because the mineral salts of the rooting hormones are more soluble than the straight stuff.
> 
> At full strength, its fertilizer components are equivalent to 0.009-0.011-0.006, which is on-par with the diluted fertilizers we typically apply. Dilute it to usable rates, and it's infinitesimal.




You are probably correct Ray.

The KLN instructions say to use in conjunction with your favorite fertilizer which is where all the K would come from (and start all the problems back up again).


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## Ray (Aug 30, 2011)

Justin's comment leads us into another potentially-interesting direction:


Justin said:


> I have not had success with IBA rooting hormones for paphs.


So it there some fact to back up his anecdotal evidence?

I know that K-L-N and Hormex, unlike most other liquid rooting hormone products, contain IBA, NAA and B1, so if any of them have an effect on paphs, we'd never know for sure which, but has anyone experimented with them singly?


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## Carper (Sep 2, 2011)

With your response to root growth Rick, how would you add/supplement the calcium and magnesium to the plant if it was needed for fast root development instead of the KLN?

Gary
UK


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## Justin (Sep 2, 2011)

Hi Ray,

I only have my very un-scientific experience. Have tried a couple different brands of rooting powder on paphs and have never seen any noticeable difference. 

Also, on multiple occasions I've been unable to rescue root-compromised plants by using rooting hormone. As I mentioned however, not much I can offer in the way of proven facts especially considering the other factors in the equation, i.e. the plants were already dying for other reasons.

For me, Paphs put out flushes of roots when they are healthy, have good quality water, and are in their cycle to root. Other than the usual (and very often successful) technique of putting rootless Paphs in sphaghum and keeping moist, I've never been able to "force" rooting. 

Just my experience though. Would love to hear if anyone has had success with K-L-N or other formulas.





Ray said:


> Justin's comment leads us into another potentially-interesting direction:So it there some fact to back up his anecdotal evidence?
> 
> I know that K-L-N and Hormex, unlike most other liquid rooting hormone products, contain IBA, NAA and B1, so if any of them have an effect on paphs, we'd never know for sure which, but has anyone experimented with them singly?


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## Ray (Sep 6, 2011)

Justin said:


> Hi Ray,
> 
> I only have my very un-scientific experience. Have tried a couple different brands of rooting powder on paphs and have never seen any noticeable difference.


The fact that you used powdered formulations may have been the issue.

The concentration of hormones in the powders tend to be 10x-100x or more than in liquids and are used at full strength, which some claim is damaging to the roots of orchids. If we dilute K-L-N at a teaspoon per gallon (a strong dose by most folks' standards), we're talking a 1/10,000 concentration compared to a powder!

Secondly, the powders contain hormones that are relatively insoluble in water so they don't wash away from the woody cuttings they are intended for. Liquids tend to contain mineral salts of those same hormones, which are more soluble in water.


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## Rick (Sep 6, 2011)

Carper said:


> With your response to root growth Rick, how would you add/supplement the calcium and magnesium to the plant if it was needed for fast root development instead of the KLN?
> 
> Gary
> UK



From memory, the hormonal component of KLN is the same as for SuperThrive. Just skipping the K supplement.

So as far as Ca and Mg goes I'd stay the course I've outlined in other threads using MSU/Calcium nitrate/Mag sulfate, but just dose periodically with Super Thrive. (I used to do this for years before I found out about KLN).

These days I have been adding a kelp extract that should also be full of natural plant hormones.


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## gonewild (Sep 6, 2011)

Be careful with the use of IBA and NAA. Applications should not be made to the foliage. Foliar applications can cause undesired effects.

I have found NAA to be extremely toxic to some plants (not orchids as far as I know). For some woody plants it causes defoliation and stem death. For other genera it works perfect to induce roots. Plants that don't respond well to NAA often do respond to IBA..... That is why some companies mix the two in their rooting formulas for retail sale, to make it more generically useful.

Rooting auxins should be applied to stems where roots could or should form. If applied properly at the right time they work great but at the wrong time or on the wrong plant part they may very well inhibit root growth.

I think regular applications of these hormones is a mistake and will adversely affect plant health over a period of time.

Also keep in mind that once dissolved in water the auxins have a very short life. Like maybe only hours?


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