# Foliar feed with Epsom salt



## papheteer (Jan 13, 2013)

I tried spraying leaves with a solution of 1/12 tsp of magnesium sulphate to 1 lt of RO water. Is this ok? What ratio do you guys use? Thanks!


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## chrismende (Jan 14, 2013)

I assume the 1/12 is a typo for 1/2 tsp?


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## papheteer (Jan 14, 2013)

No chris, 1/12 is correct. I made a concentrate of 1tsp epsom salt to 500ml RO. And took from there.


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## John Boy (Jan 14, 2013)

How did you arrive at such a "starting point"?


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## papheteer (Jan 14, 2013)

Well isn't 1/12 tsp per litre like 1/3 teaspoon per gallon? I have been reading online and most recommend 1/2 to 1 tsp per gallon so i thought I'd be on the safe side and give a little bit less.


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## Rick (Jan 14, 2013)

I think tiny amounts are just fine.

1/2 tsp or more per gallon is generally safe for random widely separated doses, and assumes that 99% of what you spray on the plant is wasted.

But if you want to dose frequently its best to take it down to tiny amounts.

There's already som Mg in K lite, MSU and tap water. But for frequent applications you don't want to have higher Mg than Ca concentrations on/in the plant.

But If you have a ton of soluble Ca around then it helps to get a bit more Mg around to help balance.


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## papheteer (Jan 15, 2013)

Thanks Rick! I have been seeing a lot of greening up in my plants. Some had very yellow leaves too. I will keep feeding 1/16 epsom salt with 1/8 tsp k-lite / gallon of RO every other watering. Question: if i wanna make a concentrate of say 5 tsp K-lite to 1L RO. Do I have to use it right away? Or does it keep for a while? Again, thanks!!


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## Rick (Jan 15, 2013)

papheteer said:


> Thanks Rick! I have been seeing a lot of greening up in my plants. Some had very yellow leaves too. I will keep feeding 1/16 epsom salt with 1/8 tsp k-lite / gallon of RO every other watering. Question: if i wanna make a concentrate of say 5 tsp K-lite to 1L RO. Do I have to use it right away? Or does it keep for a while? Again, thanks!!



Your welcome.

Your strategy sounds good to me.

We talked about the storing a liquid concentrate before, and not sure what the answer was.

I would be inclined not to hold it for much more than a week or two. I would think the trace metals could oxidize into insoluble precipitates over that time frame. However, I've been making up solutions at the rate of 2 tsp/gal and then dipping into it for small amounts over the coarse of a week since either the weather has been bad to feed alot or been too busy to feed all on one day.

I have noticed either bacterial growth or some precipitation by the end of the week. Maybe refrigeration might help???

But I've been avoiding long term storage once in solution.


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## John Boy (Jan 15, 2013)

sounds to me like preparing smaller quantities more often is a better way to do this.


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## terryros (Jan 15, 2013)

I have a modest sized collection of about 110 orchids and have been using K-Lite for not quite a year. I make up 500 mL at a time of a 10% concentration (50 gm K-Lite in 500 mL RO) that I then use at 10-15 mL/gallon RO to end up with 35-50 ppm N and an EC of 0.4-0.5. I keep the stock solution in a squeeze bottle in a refrigerator and use it up over about 2 weeks. The concentrate stays completely clear for the two weeks. At the beginning when I did not refrigerate, particles would develop. I have no idea whether the particles are organism related or chemical precipitates, but I like having them absent!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## papheteer (Jan 15, 2013)

Thanks again Rick! The reason i wanna make such concentrates is that with making small batches you don't get all the different particles of the fertilizer. Sometimes when I use a small spoon i just get the bigger flakes. And I assume that the different particles are different compounds and that getting all those particles in the solution is essential. Am
I correct?


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## Roy (Jan 15, 2013)

I know this comment will cause a problem but unlike some studies done over the last 60 years, very little on orchids but they do exist, it is shown that plants do feed thru their leaves. Some plants will draw food from every part of the plant. This is done thru the Stomata. Orchids can also do this but in a very recent study, as in previous studies, have concluded that the food uptake is done via resperation. Nutrient filled air & vapour is drawn in by the leaf. Actual fluids are not. Example, although the wrong end of the plant, Vanda's grow in the air, they don't need a compost to grow in. They rely on nutrient rich, humid air to absort food. The recent study used these & similar plants. The stomata on the roots have to accept food this way as, unlike say a Cym or Paph, they are not surrounded by a moisture laden, nutrient supplied compost to supply food. The root structure is different. Foliar feeding for vandaceous is beneficial, no question, as for compost grown plants, little benefit will be found. The actual benefit is by that the air in the growing area being moist & food laden.
The time of day foliar feeding works is critical as is the light. The stomata react quite differently under red or blue light.
The critical issue is to keep good humidity in the growing area, feed in the pot & allow the runoff to work with the humidity to do the foliar feeding.


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## newbud (Jan 15, 2013)

thanks all


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## Rick (Jan 16, 2013)

papheteer said:


> Thanks again Rick! The reason i wanna make such concentrates is that with making small batches you don't get all the different particles of the fertilizer. Sometimes when I use a small spoon i just get the bigger flakes. And I assume that the different particles are different compounds and that getting all those particles in the solution is essential. Am
> I correct?



Yes, homogeneity of the dry reagent is an issue still to be corrected I think.

So your strategy of using a big spoon is the only easy way to correct at the hobby level. The smallest thing I'm using for the same reason is a Teaspoon.

Fortunately you are doing good with the math. Unfortunately I really can't say how well the product ages once in solution to prevent a lot of waste.


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## Stone (Jan 16, 2013)

Rick said:


> Yes, homogeneity of the dry reagent is an issue still to be corrected I think.
> 
> So your strategy of using a big spoon is the only easy way to correct at the hobby level. The smallest thing I'm using for the same reason is a Teaspoon.
> 
> Fortunately you are doing good with the math. Unfortunately I really can't say how well the product ages once in solution to prevent a lot of waste.



I think many recycled hydroponic set ups fuction well for an entire growing season. (with frequent pH adjustments) So if you make a large patch of full strength solution, you should be able to store it for a while and then re-dilute it to suit your needs when you want.


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