# Adductum Anitum advice



## Carper (Apr 1, 2017)

Hi all,

I purchased a couple of flasks of each of the above just under a year ago and they seem to have done very well. I haven't yet lost a seedling. They have progressed through our winter period with the supplementation of light and a heatmat. I have fed every couple of days as the medium is about dry. This is a quite a weak solution of MSU/Akerne (13-3-15) with an addition of around 20% of either magnesium sulphate or calcium nitrate. I use RO water and feed at approx. 100 u/S. I feed kelpmax to everything every 3 weeks. Some of the seedlings do look a little weak and are slightly yellowing. Could anyone give any advice on how to feed or progress further as the plants grow. Do I need to change anything ie, feed stronger, more light, retain moisture etc. 

Thanks

Gary
UK


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## Ozpaph (Apr 1, 2017)

would like to see photos.
If they are growing well dont change anything.


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## Carper (Apr 1, 2017)

Here are some photos. Sorry quality is not too good as getting used to a different camera.









Gary


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## Jeffreyn (Apr 1, 2017)

I think they look good.


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## Alex (Apr 1, 2017)

I heard from various sources they need *very* little feed and lots of water. That's the regime my older plants (one multi growth and some bigger seedlings) get, and they grow OK and surprisingly stay the usual dark green. I might feed twice a year if they're lucky. Your plants look great, but very pale for anitum, and given your regime I do wonder about overfeeding. Do you know how the roots look?

I got a flask from Taiwan a couple of years ago, but it arrived having been shaken aggressively by the Post Office and most of them died almost on arrival. Only one of those plants made it just a month, but pleased to say it is still with me!


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## Ozpaph (Apr 1, 2017)

maybe less light? they are pale.


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## Carper (Apr 2, 2017)

Also got mine from Taiwan as were brought over to UK by Hsiao from In Charm & we're in vg shape. Roots look very strong and established so no probs there. Will try less feed and flush alternately for a while and monitor. randsii seedlings that I got at same time also going very well on same regime even though a bit slow. 

Gary


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## Brabantia (Apr 2, 2017)

Try using a fertilyser with a little bit of ammonium (20%) is pretty good. Each time I have used a 100 % NNO3 nitrogen I obtained pale color leaves.

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## Stone (Apr 3, 2017)

Brabantia said:


> Try using a fertilyser with a little bit of ammonium (20%) is pretty good. Each time I have used a 100 % NNO3 nitrogen I obtained pale color leaves.
> 
> Envoyé de mon Nexus 9 en utilisant Tapatalk



Yes. Or even better, a tiny pinch of blood and bone once per month. The ammonium + amino acids will do wonders.


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## Carper (May 27, 2017)

I was wondering if I could try adding or mixing fertilizers. Could I add Tomorite, say 50/50 with my Akerne. Wondered whether the extra ureic nitrogen may darken up the seedlings. I may still only feed lightly, say around 3-400 u/S. Both products can be seen below for their breakdown;

Tomorite;
Additional Information:
UK Fertiliser Declaration
NPK Fertiliser Solution 4-3-8
Nitrogen (N) total 4%
Ureic nitrogen 2.1%
Phosphorus pentoxide (P2O5) soluble in neutral ammonium citrate and water 3% (1.3%P)
Potassium oxide (K2O) soluble in water 8% (6.6%K)

ROI Fertiliser Declaration
Low Nutrient Fertiliser NPK Compound 4.0-1.3-6.6
Nitrogen (N) total 4%
Ureic nitrogen 2.1%
Phosphorus (P) soluble in water 1.3%
Potassium (K) soluble in water 6.6%

Akerne Rainmix

(11,8N+2,7P2O5+13,7K2O+11,8CaO+3,5MgO+4,8SO3)

RAIN MIX ® is based on the following principles:

- All the nitric nitrogen in this fertilizer is directly absorbed by the plant. This fertilizer does not contain any Urea ( a cheap nitrogen source) that requires high temperatures in order to be absorbed by the plant, resulting in a premature breakdown of the substrate due to micro-organisms.

All necessary trace elements are present: Fe, Mn, Zn, Cu, B, Mo and Co.

Any calculations or alternative measures would be good.

Thanks

Gary
UK


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## Paphiope (Jun 9, 2017)

I have had problems in the past with with akerne rain mix. Yellow leaves with later brown leave tips. I have change to Peters 20-20-20 alternating with Peters Excel CalMag grower 14-6-14. Both with an addition of Calziumnitrat and Magnesiumnitrat. The leaves green up.


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## SlipperFan (Jun 9, 2017)

Ozpaph said:


> maybe less light? they are pale.



I wondered about that, also.


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## Stone (Jun 13, 2017)

I've started feeding at every watering now (for the small plants in an open mix) 

Total about 2 gms in 20 litres (5.2 gallons) + solid organic once per month. (weak in other words)

After watering with plain water.


About 10-3-6 NPK ratio

50/50 or 70/30 ammonium - nitrate ratio summer. 20/80 in winter

+ Urea in summer.

Cal nitrate + ammonium nitrate for N

Higher rates of trace elements (about 3 times normal ferts) All as sulphates in higher to lower ratio...

Mn, Zn, Fe, B (as NaB), Cu, Mo as (NaMo).

Kelp once per month, Aminos as fermented fish now and then...

Spray with vermicompost extract once per month. Sometimes add MgSO4 to a spray

Dolomite dusting every 3 months.

This seems to give very good colour and vigour so far.

I spray with ammonium nitrate if I see old leaves yellowing.


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## Brabantia (Jun 13, 2017)

Stone said:


> Higher rates of trace elements (about 3 times normal ferts) All as sulphates in higher to lower ratio...
> Mn, Zn, Fe, B (as NaB), Cu, Mo as (NaMo).


What are ratios for your oligos ? Are there same as MSU ? Do you use more Mn than Fe as recommended by Roth (Xavier) a few years ago. Is it a commercial all ready solution?


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## Stone (Jun 13, 2017)

Brabantia said:


> What are ratios for your oligos ? Are there same as MSU ? Do you use more Mn than Fe as recommended by Roth (Xavier) a few years ago. Is it a commercial all ready solution?



The ratios are roughly.....

Mn-10 * Zn-5 * Fe-2 * B-2 * Cu-1 * Mo-1. They are the ratios but the rate can vary as much as you want.
The iron is the slowest to dissolve so I use very hot water. I made up the mix and keep it in a glass jar and use maybe 1/8 teaspoon or a bit less (maybe 0.25gms) in 20 litres.

No not a commercial preparation. I bought each one separately. Also want to add Nickel Chloride to the mix soon but the organics provide of the rare ones as well. In fact you can just use a good organic and just add N if you need it but I like playing with the chems..


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## Bjorn (Jun 14, 2017)

I have been making my own and used it for several years, here is the proportions of the micros. Started With less Fe but had to increase a bit. Better results with this one, but might increase Fe even more, perhaps by 25% next time I do the mixing. Similarities with your composition Mike.
Fe	1,00
Mn	3,03
Zn	1,70
Cu	1,43
B	0,98
Mo	0,49
Co	0,07
Ni	0,08
Na	0,24
Cl	0,09


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## Brabantia (Jun 14, 2017)

Thank you very much Stone and Bjorn for your infos about oligos elements.
I have two other questions:
Are the metals complexed by any chelator like EDTA or citric acid?
Do you use these ratios for other orchids than Paphs and Phrags such as Cattleya or Odontoglossum?


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## Stone (Jun 14, 2017)

Brabantia said:


> Thank you very much Stone and Bjorn for your infos about oligos elements.
> I have two other questions:
> Are the metals complexed by any chelator like EDTA or citric acid?
> Do you use these ratios for other orchids than Paphs and Phrags such as Cattleya or Odontoglossum?



Mine are all sulphates except for the Mo and B. No chelation. 

Yes I use it on everything but not always as I'm a bit lazy.


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## Bjorn (Jun 15, 2017)

I use citric acid as chelant. 
My water has approx 100ppm fertiliser added (Equals to approx 0.2ppm Fe). All water gets the addition, hence also all plants irrespective of genus.


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## Ozpaph (Jun 17, 2017)

so you guys use Manganese (Mn) and not Magnesium (Mg)??
How much citric acid?
Thanks


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## Brabantia (Jun 18, 2017)

Ozpaph said:


> so you guys use Manganese (Mn) and not Magnesium (Mg)??
> How much citric acid?
> Thanks


Mg (Magnesium) is not an oligo-element but a macro-element like Ca N P and K. Here we discuss about oligos-elements.

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