# How are your kovachii seedlings doing?



## SlipperFan (May 2, 2009)

I'm asking this question because mine seem to be "stuck" -- I've lost a bunch, and the remaining seem to be holding their own. But they are growing, if they are growing, ever so slowly.

Mine came from Piping Rock, so I'm wondering if it has to do with parentage, or just the nature of kovachii?

I've noticed a couple of threads where people indicated their seedlings were growing fast, and maybe even some posts about their kovachii's about to bloom, but no photos were posted yet. The only one I remember is the photo of Chuck Acker's plant. 

So how about it? How are your kovachii seedlings doing? If they are growing fast, what's your secret????????


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## Magicboy (May 2, 2009)

Mine is growing very slowly! I don't know where it's from and don't know it's parentage.


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## JeanLux (May 3, 2009)

I have got 2 smallies from Wubben in 2007, one passed away, 1 is growing but slowwly. My other youngster from f Glanz is yet smaller and already loosing 1 leaf  ! Jean


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## Paul (May 3, 2009)

Mines needed two years to acclimate from flask but they were really bad at the begining: very tiny plantlets with no roots, flask contaminated... I'm lucky to have saved most of them!
Now they are growing well, but far from blooming size.


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## P-chan (May 3, 2009)

I bought mine last summer from Piping Rock. It was about 4" at the time. I have mine under T-12's about a foot from the bulbs. I water it each morning spraying the bark mix. It's pretty much doubled in size, which is still small, but it's healthy and I can see growth.:wink:


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## Clark (May 3, 2009)

Pk x Living Fire- small seedling bought Feb. 2007, grows like a weed.
I am sure it will spike next year. 

Pk- bought Feb. 2008. Very small seedling, has tripled in size since.
These are the most expensive plants by size I have bought.

When it rains, they go outside. Hybrid gets same fertilizer as sanderianum,
but it is a larger plant. Newer Pk gets just a little fertilizer, same as
longifolium (which I find sensitive to fertilizer).
Light-same as roth and sand.
Water-they'll teach you how to do the backstroke. The wettest plants
in the house. I mist most of the plants.
Both came from Piping Rock. Except for cost, no complaints.
Air flow- unless a window is open or they go outside-none.


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## Wendy (May 3, 2009)

I had two...lost the smallest one. The biggest one now has a leaf span of 12", which is deceiving as the leaves are very upright. This is actually the second growth for this plant. The first growth faded away as this growth grew. I have it in an opaque pot so I can monitor the root growth, in coconut and perlite and top dressed with limestone chips. It is also grown wet and in low light with good air movement.


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## goldenrose (May 3, 2009)

Wendy said:


> .... The biggest one now has a leaf span of 12", .... It is also grown wet and in low light with good air movement.



How long did it take to get that size? 
At what point would one increase the light? Can't they handle pretty good light?


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## John M (May 3, 2009)

Back in June 2007, I started with two flasks of kovachii that originated from Piping Rock. I potted them all (about 60 plants), individually in pure sphagnum moss and watched them rot and die en-masse. A few months later, I finally salvaged the survivors (about 18 plants) and put them into clay pots, using a mix of perlite and coconut chips. I fed them the same as my mixed collection of adult plants and gave them Cattleya light. They established and grew some, doubling their size; but, it took about 18 months. 

I've heard that I should've been able to get better results. Specifically, I've read/heard that kovachii seedlings like very low light and only appreciate the higher light levels (for say...a Cattleya), when they are near blooming size. Also, acid conditions at the roots is not good for them. So, the sphagnum moss was a mistake to use on newly deflasked seedlings. They need a slightly alkaline condition at the roots.....so, limestone added to the mix is very helpful. I believe that in nature, they are supposed to grow on limestone hills.

FWIW; Some food for thought...in a nutshell.....what I've come to understand for this species is that the seedlings will grow quickly...
1) if they have a neutral to slightly alkaline potting mix containing limestone. 
2) if they are grown in very low light.
3) if they are grown at no higher than intermediate temperatures.
4) if they are fertilized very lightly; expecially at first when very young.
5) if you have good karma and the moon and the stars are aligned right!


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## NYEric (May 3, 2009)

Eh, fair.


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## smartie2000 (May 3, 2009)

I had three kovachii ('laura' x 'ana') and I also put mine into sphagnum. I have one left now, and I noticed it had a small root system this year when I unpotted it.

Now it is in sphag with dolomite (pH increaae). Its small but now it has started growing faster and hopefully in the coming years it will bloom. But I might put it into fine bark later this year

Kovachii hybrids are as easy as other phrags, mine are now blooming sized.


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## P-chan (May 3, 2009)

goldenrose said:


> How long did it take to get that size?
> At what point would one increase the light? Can't they handle pretty good light?



Glenn Decker told me that they need to start out with Phal. type light until they're at least an 8 inch leaf span, and then gradually increase the light as the plant grows. once it's 12 inches or so, it should be able to take Cattleya light. Gradual increase is the trick. Low light when very small.


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## Gilda (May 3, 2009)

John M said:


> 5) if you have good karma and the moon and the stars are aligned right!



You hit the nail on the head with that advice !!:clap::wink:


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## Rick (May 3, 2009)

P-chan said:


> Glenn Decker told me that they need to start out with Phal. type light until they're at least an 8 inch leaf span, and then gradually increase the light as the plant grows. once it's 12 inches or so, it should be able to take Cattleya light. Gradual increase is the trick. Low light when very small.



I'm having somewhat similar results with multifloral paph species. The seedlings of some of my light hogs like phili and kolo grow very well under indoor florescent light levels, but stall out (or die) at brighter conditions in the GH. If I find dark corners to stash them they take off again. There also seems to be a connection between light levels and temperatures too, so you might be able to grow brighter if you keep them cooler.


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## SlipperFan (May 3, 2009)

This is interesting.

Does anyone have a kovachii seedling with a leaf span of greater than 12 inches???


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## Wendy (May 3, 2009)

Here is my seedling. If I stretch the single leaf it is 9" from tip to crown. I like how the leaves curl on Pk. I still have this plant on the bottom shelf where the temps are lower...on the cool side of intermediate. I've found that in the time I've had it, it has told me pretty quick when it was happy and when it was not.

Yes Gregory 'needed' to get in on the photo shoot. he's always a good boy so I suffer through his neediness.


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## slippertalker (May 4, 2009)

I also purchased a flask from Decker about 1 1/2 yrs ago, it had 30 flasklings.
My previous experience of growing phrags from flask has probably helped with this species. Out of those 30, I have lost one....

The largest are 20+ inches in spread, and they are starting their 2nd and 3rd growths. I have good conditions for this species (cool, good water, and medium light). They grow the best in spring and fall, and stop in summer temperatures. They really seem to enjoy 50-55F nights and bottom moisture along with oyster shell in the mix to raise the PH.

I would guess that half are over 12", 1/4 are 8" or so and the runts are about 5-6". Pretty typical for phrags to have such a spread in vigor.

I expect flowers in probably two more years and if lucky, perhaps this fall.


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## NYEric (May 4, 2009)

Don't forget your STF friends!!! :drool:


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## Hien (May 4, 2009)

slippertalker said:


> I also purchased a flask from Decker about 1 1/2 yrs ago, it had 30 flasklings.
> My previous experience of growing phrags from flask has probably helped with this species. Out of those 30, I have lost one....
> 
> The largest are 20+ inches in spread, and they are starting their 2nd and 3rd growths. I have good conditions for this species (cool, good water, and medium light). They grow the best in spring and fall, and stop in summer temperatures. They really seem to enjoy 50-55F nights and bottom moisture along with oyster shell in the mix to raise the PH.
> ...



YOU ARE THE MAN
:clap::clap:
I SHOULD HAVE SENDING MY PERU-FLORA & PIPING ROCK FLASKS TO YOUR KOVACHII BOARDING SCHOOL.
WELL IT IS TOO LATE NOW. THERE IS NOTHING TO SEND


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## Hien (May 4, 2009)

Wendy said:


> Here is my seedling. If I stretch the single leaf it is 9" from tip to crown. I like how the leaves curl on Pk. I still have this plant on the bottom shelf where the temps are lower...on the cool side of intermediate. I've found that in the time I've had it, it has told me pretty quick when it was happy and when it was not.
> 
> Yes Gregory 'needed' to get in on the photo shoot. he's always a good boy so I suffer through his neediness.



WATCH THAT CAT LIKE A HAWK IF HE EVEN LICKS THE KOVACHII LEAF, GIVING HIM SOME GOOD SPANKING


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## Wendy (May 5, 2009)

LOL Hien! He wouldn't dream of it. I trust my kitten. He's been around the orchids since he was 6 weeks old. Having said that though I don't let them in the room when I am not there...the temptation might be too much. The orchid room has a door to keep them out.

I forgot to mention that my plant came from Peter Croezen.


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## goldenrose (May 6, 2009)

Wendy said:


> .... I trust my kitten..... The orchid room has a door to keep them out.


oke: :rollhappy: I've heard those words before!
Translation - you trust that you will close that door!


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## Wendy (May 6, 2009)

No I mean that I know he won't do anything naughty while I'm there. It would be unfair on him to expect him to behave while I am not there...thus the closed door. Too much temptation for 'kittens' without Mommy present. :drool:


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## @[email protected] (May 28, 2009)

PK is the only orchid that really mocked me! 
Including the one I have, aborted the bud, it continues to grow rapidly in its new owner.
However, I know two other kovachii withc have aborted in the same way as mine. It is possible that this plant to complete its flowering is sensitive to their native conditions and season, and this, without any consideration about the nature of the substrate!


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## slippertalker (May 28, 2009)

My plants will be blooming size in a year or so, hopefully aborted blooms aren't part of the package! How disappointing....


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## NYEric (May 28, 2009)

Eh.


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## TyroneGenade (Jun 10, 2009)

Hello,

I got a multi-growth Phrag. kovachii seedling in the post (from an annonymous donor ). :rollhappy:

I have it in a clay pot with some gravel in the bottom and the plant potted in a mix of fine bark and sphagnum moss. I have worked some shell grit into the mix. Is this OK?

Regarding watering, does the kovachii want to be kept wet or moist? Should I put the pot into a shallow tray of water or just water regularly?

Any and all advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks


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## Paul (Jun 10, 2009)

It needs to never dry.
I grow mines constantly wet, they are still young plants but grow well


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## NYEric (Jun 10, 2009)

I have mostly hybrids, so far I'm not getting the results I thought I would. I must confess that I haven't been spending as much time as I need to on my plants!


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## TyroneGenade (Jun 10, 2009)

Paul, when you say "wet" do you think having it rest in a shallow tray of water would do the job? The mix is pretty porous AND there is quite a bit of course gravel in the bottom 3rd of the pot.

Thanks for the advice.


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## slippertalker (Jun 10, 2009)

Yes, Phrag kovachii loves wet "feet", and my plants are always with trays of water similar to other moisture lovers as besseae. Give it an open mix, keep the PH relatively high (a smidge on the alkaline side) and lots of good quality water. They like being in a bit of shade when young, after they grow a bit they will enjoy more light.


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## Paul (Jun 11, 2009)

TyroneGenade said:


> Paul, when you say "wet" do you think having it rest in a shallow tray of water would do the job? The mix is pretty porous AND there is quite a bit of course gravel in the bottom 3rd of the pot.
> 
> Thanks for the advice.



Yes their feet often stand into 1cm water


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## Brachy (Jun 13, 2009)

There's a long time I've not posted here (post change, and a lot of other things)!
For kovachii seedlings I bought in 2006, it's rather a good year (Ok, only for one of them, lol) 

it's there

(in french but I plan to translate)


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## JeanLux (Jun 14, 2009)

Brachy said:


> ....
> it's there
> 
> (in french but I plan to translate)



the link does not work!! Jean


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## Paul (Jun 14, 2009)

Hello, 
here are my 3 kovachii crosses (Tupac Amaru x N3, Jewel x Goliath & Tupac Amaru x Maximus)

The first one is the oldest and biggest (20cm), I saved it from bacterial rot by miracle  







The others are from 2 flasks of 5 plants, one flask has grown better.
they are all outside now (moderatly deep shade), sitting into 0-1cm water (rain water)
potting is small bark + peat + perlite + lava rock + dolomie powder (CaCO3, MgCO3) They are doing well in it. 
I just put very little osmocote on the top as fertilizer.


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## NYEric (Jun 14, 2009)

Thanx for sharing


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## TyroneGenade (Jun 15, 2009)

Thanks Paul,

That is pretty much how I have mind pottered. I'm using a clear-plastic tub with a water resevoir at the bottom (like for my Disa) and then bark + shell gritt. Hope mind do as well.


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## Brachy (Jun 17, 2009)

Sorry, this link should be right, this time ;o)

http://www.orchidspirit.com/index.php?categoryid=23&p2_articleid=23


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## SlipperKing (Jun 17, 2009)

Yes, it works now. Nice progression!


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## JeanLux (Jun 18, 2009)

wow and bravo!! Very nice!!! Tiens nous au courant!!! Jean


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## Bjorn (Nov 27, 2015)

Came across this one, anyone of you that succeeded flowering one?


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