# Why!!!!!! Crown rot



## Happypaphy7 (Dec 19, 2015)

This is my first and only leucochilum I got two years ago.
I just saw that the second oldest fan which has been in low bud for a while had this dreaded dark brown wet area at the very center.
I thought it was a bit too slow that the low bud had been stuck in this stage for far too long. Well, now I know why.
It has been on its way to become a little clump of 6 growth, so I was quite upset about this.

couldn't just toss it in the bin, so I took it out of the pot to see how the rest looks. Well, there were tons of roots with active tips.
All the bark chip had been washed away and the roots were all clinging on to large (or medium large) perlite chunks.

What I did : I pull out the rotted leaf and poured in hydrogen peroxide, then potted up in a new pot. I hope the rot has not yet spread inside the center and other part already. I guess I will see what shows up in the next couple of weeks.

The first pic shows the correct green tone of the leaves. I love these. They are very glossy, thick and fleshy unlike any other brachy I have.

The dry brown stuff is from the last flowering in October. At the bottom of the picture, the darker part at the center of the growth is the rot.
The second picture is taken after the rotted leaf has been pulled out.

Wish me luck!


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## NYEric (Dec 19, 2015)

Good luck.


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## Happypaphy7 (Dec 19, 2015)

Thanks. I'll need lots of it.
If all fail, well, I won't be too sad. Too many seedlings growing up requiring space. lol


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## SlipperFan (Dec 19, 2015)

I see new growth... Hang in there!


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## Happypaphy7 (Dec 19, 2015)

Yes, the one that just flowered and this one with rot were the original growths at the time of purchase. They were much smaller. 
They always tried to add more fans but those new starts would die early on.
This year, they have been growing two three new fans each. 
Will see how it goes.


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## Linus_Cello (Dec 19, 2015)

would cinnamon or dragons blood help?


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## Happypaphy7 (Dec 19, 2015)

I poured in hydrogen peroxide and then put sone cinnamon powder. 
I don't have dragon blood. 

If the infection had already reached deeper inside, I think it's only up to the strength of the plant to fight it off.
Not so bright. 

Time will tell, I guess.

Really hate to see this, especially on multiple growth plants that never gave me trouble.


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## abax (Dec 19, 2015)

Fingers crossed for you Happy. I've had this happen and
I took out the dead plant material and the plant is making
a rather nice comeback without any treatment at all.


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## Ray (Dec 20, 2015)

Sorry for the commercial, but Inocucor Garden Solution will cure that, stop the spread, prevent future occurrences (unless you're really sloppy with your watering habits), and enhance the growth of the plant.

Having been known to get sloppy on occasion, I have first-hand experience.


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## dodidoki (Dec 20, 2015)

Happypaphy7 said:


> I poured in hydrogen peroxide and then put sone cinnamon powder.
> I don't have dragon blood.
> 
> If the infection had already reached deeper inside, I think it's only up to the strength of the plant to fight it off.
> ...



My experience that cinammon has no effect on rot ( maybe just makes the surface dry. I have to try dragon blood few weeks ago on one of my helenaes, I only place few drops on spot and it stopped and turned dry.


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## Happypaphy7 (Dec 20, 2015)

abax said:


> Fingers crossed for you Happy. I've had this happen and
> I took out the dead plant material and the plant is making
> a rather nice comeback without any treatment at all.



That's good to hear!
I hope my plant will heal itself.


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## Happypaphy7 (Dec 20, 2015)

Ray said:


> Sorry for the commercial, but Inocucor Garden Solution will cure that, stop the spread, prevent future occurrences (unless you're really sloppy with your watering habits), and enhance the growth of the plant.
> 
> Having been known to get sloppy on occasion, I have first-hand experience.



No need to apologize, Ray. If it's something that is beneficial to plant growers, what's wrong with that? Absolutely nothing!!
I should look into that. Never heard of it. 

Does it somehow penetrate into the tissue and fight or does it boost plants own fight mechanism?
I'm curious about how it works.


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## Happypaphy7 (Dec 20, 2015)

dodidoki said:


> My experience that cinammon has no effect on rot ( maybe just makes the surface dry. I have to try dragon blood few weeks ago on one of my helenaes, I only place few drops on spot and it stopped and turned dry.



I totally agree with you. 
I understand that cinnamon has anti-fungal property but it is in the extract.
Power form might just dry things up.
Hydrogen peroxide also doesn't do much other than sealing up the wounds.

So I hope the disease hasn't spread inside further.


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## Ray (Dec 20, 2015)

Happypaphy7 said:


> Does it somehow penetrate into the tissue and fight or does it boost plants own fight mechanism?
> I'm curious about how it works.


The product consists of several cooperating consortia of beneficial bacteria and fungi (yeasts). They colonize the medium, and the plant, both internally, and on their leaf surfaces, and combined, have several modes-of-action, ranging from killing pathogens in the potting media, on the plant surface, and within the plant, to stimulating the natural self-protective and growth mechanisms of the plant.


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## Happypaphy7 (Dec 20, 2015)

That sounds great!
It makes me curious how those microorganisms stay alive inside a bottle and come out and start working. 
Plus, would they survive in drier home growing condition?

I guess at least initially they would do the job.


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## paphioboy (Dec 21, 2015)

Throwing the whole plant away because of 1 rotted fan seems pretty extreme. Usually, I cut away the affected growth at the base, where the fan of leaves meets the rhizome. If the cut area still shows brown discoloration, then you can treat it there.


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## Stone (Dec 21, 2015)

Happypaphy, The fact that these leaves are thick and fleshy is a clue to treating the plant. It comes from near the coast where it is subjected to constant drying wind (along with heat and humidity) therefore you need to have strong air movement 24/7 365 days a year. If you look at all coastal plants you will see either thick fleshy leaves or hairy leaves both of which are evolved to withstand exposure. Give them too much ''soft'' treatment and sooner or later you will have this kind of trouble. Especially during your dark short winter days! Think of them as succulents rather than orchids. The pictures of the habitat I have seen they grow alongside succulent euphorbia (like cati) They don't like overhead watering without strong warm WIND! The more growths they have the more important air is. The plant looks healthy enough to me. Just give it a bit of tough love by not spraying it and water from underneath only for a while.


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## gonewild (Dec 21, 2015)

Ray said:


> The product consists of several cooperating consortia of beneficial bacteria and fungi (yeasts). They colonize the medium, and the plant, both internally, and on their leaf surfaces, and combined, have several modes-of-action, ranging from killing pathogens in the potting media, on the plant surface, and within the plant, to stimulating the natural self-protective and growth mechanisms of the plant.



Ray can you elaborate on how yeast and bacteria colonize internally in the plant and how they then kill pathogens or stimulate the plants immune system? How do they enter the plant and where do they colonize within the plant?


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## Ray (Dec 21, 2015)

I am knowledgeable to answer only parts of that.

Growth stimulation, at a minimum is due to the emission of indole acetic acid, an auxin. Other metabolic by-products have been known to stimulate defense mechanisms.

Much of the killing mechanism is due to those metabolites being able to decompose chitin.


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## gonewild (Dec 21, 2015)

Ray said:


> I am knowledgeable to answer only parts of that.
> 
> Growth stimulation, at a minimum is due to the emission of indole acetic acid, an auxin. Other metabolic by-products have been known to stimulate defense mechanisms.
> 
> Much of the killing mechanism is due to those metabolites being able to decompose chitin.



Do you have any info about the bacteria and/or fungi colonizing inside the plant as you stated?


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