# Yellow Spots And Drooping, Dying Paph Collection



## orchidbri (Jan 16, 2015)

Hello all. I have a small collect of paphs that are rapidly failing, doubtless thanks to an ebay venustum that came infested with the plague. It dissolved into rot 3 days after arriving. I asked for my money back so the seller sent me a second orchid. Beautiful root system, wonderful plant. I still look at it and adore. But I am watching as my tiny, tiny collection just _dies_.

I have 6 all together. Venustum (the baby of the group), Venustum var Album, Venus Aglow, Stella Scope, Fanciful Flight, and Charmingly Wood.


































My grow area:









The original venustum that died: (this is right after soaking it in Physan20, that is why it looks wet)









Physan 20 only seems to make it worse. I cut off humidity and all but stopped watering. When I did water, it harpooned a huge boost in the infection. This same type of whatever also killed off my supermarket phals. Cinnamon seemed to help somehow, but not for long. I noticed that many times the edges and tips of the leaves would turn brown and crusty, perhaps like a dormant disease(?), for many weeks before a spot or two begins spreading from the middle of the leaf. It does not always follow a pattern, and sometimes comes from the leaf tip or the base of the leaf and spreads from there, or from many places at once. It makes the leaf thinner, browner, slightly translucent, and almost papery. Only one and occasionally two leaves are effected at once. I have not noticed the spots being particularly wet or oozy. The spotting leaves are not the only symptom- they are DROOPING. It's almost worse than the spots. Extremely sad to watch, especially on my older, multi-growth paphs.

The disease is now blasting the buds on my venustum var album. The two that opened AND the one that never did. This same plant has lost two mature growths.

They came to me with overgrown root systems and springy, happy leaves. They came in bud, or budded the weeks thereafter. All 6 were in bud at once. The happiest 3 weeks of my life. They all looked something like this when I first got them:




...and by adapting my culture, I saw many perk up and shine even more. Please help me identify what is happening to my plants! I feel like it is already to late for them but I need to at least try.


----------



## ALToronto (Jan 16, 2015)

So - none of your paphs has been in your home longer than 6 weeks?


----------



## PaphMadMan (Jan 16, 2015)

Honestly, mostly what I see is Paphs dying of thirst.


----------



## Justin (Jan 16, 2015)

those plants are all severely dehydrated.

your mix is probably too coarse and you may not be watering enough? can you pot them in a finer grade of bark? you might mix in some chopped sphagnum moss too. also, the base of the plant should be flush or just below the top of the mix so that new roots can emerge and not dry out.

some of them may be too far gone but try to get them hydrated and see if they can recover...if they do recover it will take many months.

Also there is a fungal infection spread across your plants. Phtyon 27 or a copper based forumlation from Lowes would work much better than Physan. you need to cut off infected parts with sterlized tools (and of course this will make dehydration worse...)


----------



## troy (Jan 16, 2015)

you have a major project at hand use ro water should be ph neutral also what fertilizer do you use?


----------



## troy (Jan 16, 2015)

I use a water ph 6.5 on my majority and fertilize lightly with ro having to adjust ph because once added fertilizer usually throws ph off because it's unstable I keep my humidity 70 '/. although high humidity would explode your fungul problem, when your plants get healthy keep an eye on TEMP, WATER, HUMIDITY, LIGHT


----------



## Bjorn (Jan 16, 2015)

You have a serious problem there, but I believe that much can be gained by following the above guidelines. Mine are the same, keep em moist and increase humidity. Water quality is important as well, if you can use rain water, then try that. Its a misconception that orchids are to be kept dry, where paphs come from it rains heavily almost every day. Good luck!


----------



## Happypaphy7 (Jan 16, 2015)

Overall, yes, your plants look severely underwatered.

Some definitely have rust/rot diseases as in the first two pictures.
The next four pictures look like "natural" aging process or what happened to some of my orchids when they were sprayed with certain things.

I would trim off the diseased leaves and soak the plants good a few times to plump up the plants.

By the way, physan 20 is not going to help here.
I find it has minimal to zero effect on diseases.
There is also a chart somewhere on the internet where it compares various sprays regarding what they are good for and how effective they are.
Not surprisingly physan 20 is nearly useless against disease.

By the way, I would send everything back and get money back.
If they began to get sickly looking within 3 days after arrival, then they were already sick at the seller's place.
I'd like to know who the vender is? maybe PM me if you're not comfortable disclosing the info publicly.


----------



## mormodes (Jan 16, 2015)

PaphMadMan said:


> Honestly, mostly what I see is Paphs dying of thirst.



Same here. IMHO the original poster could easily slide these pots (with too many holes) into plain plastic pots - to cut down on transpiration. Maybe some new roots will grow in a few weeks. If s/he still worries about a pathogen pour 3% peroxide straight from the bottle over the plants and potting medium. (The same stuff you get at any grocery store). Keep evenly moist, which is difficult to do indoors (dry) and under lights (hot) but we all managed to eventually learn how to grow in these conditions. Keep out of any drafts from the room's heat register. Hopefully in 4-6 weeks new growths will start and if you are really lucky new roots. I'll leave it to people smarter than me about whether or not to take off the old brown leaves or the buds, and whether or not to feed. Personally I'd remove the one old brown leaf, I may or may not take off the bud and I'd wouldn't feed. I'd just keep it evenly moist until the plants show improvement. I might even turn off the lights and just go with whatever light is available from the window. YMMV. Growing indoors is hard to do. Don't beat yourself up. IMHO the trick is keeping things evenly moist and what that means in your environment. Not soaking wet, not dried out. Just evenly moist. Hard to do indoors in the wintertime. I think that's why people will tweak the concept of semi-hydroponics for their conditions. Ray Barkalow's web page has a nice write up about it. (First rays orchids) or just google search the term semi-hydroponics and see if it turns up. Personally I tweak the idea of standing my paphs in a small tray of water ( about 1/2") and that helped me. Not that I'm a great grower, but I get some blooms. I hope any of this helps.


----------



## The Mutant (Jan 16, 2015)

A lot of great advice here. I'm a windowsill grower myself and winter really is the most difficult time of year to keep the plants happy indoors.

Personally, I would remove all spikes/buds to let the plants focus on growing roots instead. A dead Paph is very difficult to get to flower while a living one at least stands a chance. :wink:

And please, don't let this deter you from growing Paphs. I've killed plenty of them myself already despite being relatively new to them. Learn from it and do better with the next ones instead. 

I'll hope for the best and good luck!


----------



## troy (Jan 16, 2015)

mormodes, you have more awards than just about anybody else lol..


----------



## TyroneGenade (Jan 16, 2015)

Is that digital thermometer reading 37 oC or oF? If oC the that is WAY too hot. If oF then that is way too cold. What is your humidity like?


----------



## NYEric (Jan 16, 2015)

welcome to the forum. As mentioned, looks too dry-increase the moisture, then lose those pots with the extra air slits on the sides!!! Also, add something a little moisture retentive to your mix, sphagnum moss, cork, etc. Finally, get some Physan fungicide/cleaner and make a solution to drench the plants, then dust on powdered cinnamon to prevent rot. Good luck.


----------



## Erythrone (Jan 16, 2015)

TyroneGenade said:


> Is that digital thermometer reading 37 oC or oF? If oC the that is WAY too hot. If oF then that is way too cold. What is your humidity like?





You are right!!! I just saw it on the 8th picture!!! Could be in USA because of name Texas we can see on the same picture. So it could be F degrees... Or maybe it is a 
digital hygrometer?


----------



## RNCollins (Jan 16, 2015)

Welcome to the forum from New York State!

My suggestion is to get the powdered cinnamon off the roots... Cinnamon is a desiccant, it will dry out and damage the roots.


----------



## mormodes (Jan 16, 2015)

troy said:


> mormodes, you have more awards than just about anybody else lol..



?? Oh, you think I'm Dave. No. I'm not.


----------



## Ozpaph (Jan 16, 2015)

nip out the bud, cover the roots with more mix, turn the fan off, increase humidity and water them!


----------



## tnyr5 (Jan 16, 2015)

TyroneGenade said:


> Is that digital thermometer reading 37 oC or oF? If oC the that is WAY too hot. If oF then that is way too cold. What is your humidity like?



I bet it's reading 37% humidity.


----------



## daniella3d (Jan 16, 2015)

they look awfully dry, wilted. I keep mine wet and they are doing great. 

If you think they have a fungus problem, spray them with a systemic fungicide like tebuconazole or Bayer advance product for fungus, but I would not cut on the watering like that. Mine are in fine bark, not corse as yours and the mix remain quite humid all the time. I water them a little bit every day so they don't dry.

Also you could try spraying them with aspirin. I think it's one aspirin in a liter of water but I am not sure. This is supposed to increase the plant immune system. I have not tried it myself but I have read about it here in this forum.


----------



## orchidbri (Jan 17, 2015)

Thank you all!

I'll try to answer everyone as briefly as possible, and then I have a few questions of my own...

First off, that is 37% HUMIDITY. Haha. In that room the temperature is 23.3C, or 73F, with little variation.
I understand that the humidity is still much lower than what healthy paphs like, the room has been allowed to moderate its own humidity levels. The humidifier used to keep the small room around 50%-70%. They loved it. The fan was always on during the day, pointed off into space but kept things circulating nicely. I'll start that up again.

I have had these plants for about 5 months. The decline was slow, but it was immediately noticeable when they began drooping and stopped putting energy into their new spikes. For almost a month they were booming, and then nothing.

I would water them once every two weeks or once a month in the winter, using their plant label or a pencil to check when the medium is dry. When watered, they are kept away from the window for a day or two (supplemented with daylight spectrum CFLs) to save their roots some of the chill.

Happypaph7, the ebay vendor was something like springwater orchids. I cannot find it in my purchase history as it was so long ago. Absolutely no problem calling out a vendor in public for something that was obviously an issue. I tried them twice and got burned both times.

Mormodes, 3% hydrogen peroxide was among the many things I tried on my supermarket phals. It destroyed their roots, especially the air roots of a certain phal saved from root rot way back when I first got started. Extremely sad. I suspect the peroxide simply dried them out. Perhaps if one rinses the plant after the fizzing settles, but otherwise I'd rather not try it again.
Ah, funny you should say that. I'm currently trying semi-hydroponics. I like it so far, and I need a lower-maintenance method of growing for college in the near future, but I am trying it and tweaking it on phals before my precious paphs. I have been collecting vases and using diamond drill bits to add the drainage holes, it's exciting.

Thank you for the welcome RNCollins! The cinnamon is already long washed off the roots, those photos are rather old. I did not know that about cinnamon, and will keep a careful eye on it in the future!

I don't always use fertilizer, but when I do I use MSU for RO/TAP/RAIN as per the directions. I have just gotten my hands on some Dyna-Gro K-L-N rooting stimulate, but have not yet used it when I water.

-
I agree now with what y'all are saying. Dehydration. Of course. No doubt weakened by winter temperatures back in November before I realized the damage and moved them to their current location. Each night, I move them from the windowsill down to the counter space below. Texas winters are pretty cold in this area (about an hour from Dallas if you want to know).

Phyton 27 sounds like the way to go as far as infection. I'll buy some off ebay tonight. Probably useful to have around anyway. Does anybody have an opinion of Phyton27 vs. Bayer Advanced?

Should I be using fertilizer or root stimulate at all? Simply let them rehydrate for a month or so? Instinctively I err more on the side of using nothing but water, to avoid more complications while the plants recover. Or would y'all recommend I water them with RO and a half-dose of fertilizer? Again... I'm cautious to fertilize normally until they recover, but RO water has absolutely no mineral content, as I understand?

Is it possible for me to accurately check municipal water pH using the stuff made to check pH for freshwater fish? I can't see why not. Of course the tested sample of water would not be used on the plants. Any quick "OH NO DON'T DO THAT" statements I should consider before trusting the outcome?

I was expecting maybe one or two posts, never this much support overnight. What a wonderful community. Thank you guys for expanding my knowledge of paphs, and helping me debunk some of my culture pitfalls. Before this I would lurk and research when a problem arose, but it is much more beneficial to ask for advice on my own photos rather than to try and hunt down someone with a similar problem. Wide as the web is, it ain't that efficient. Thanks again everyone, even if no one can get to my new questions. You guys have helped me out so much already.


----------



## orchidbri (Jan 17, 2015)

aha... my checklist so far is:

Phyton 27 and cinnamon
Cut infected parts and buds off plants
Turn on humidifier, maintain +/- 50% humidity
Slide plant pots into larger plastic pots, to better retain moisture around roots
Consider using RO rather than municipal, potentially fertilizer and root stimulate
Keep cinnamon off roots


----------



## The Mutant (Jan 17, 2015)

orchidbri said:


> aha... my checklist so far is:
> 
> Phyton 27 and cinnamon
> Cut infected parts and buds off plants
> ...


And cover up the roots. 

Btw, I also move all my plants away from the windows during night. It seems to help with the condensation mine get inside the pots. 

I would not use any fertilizer, not even with RO-water, but possibly a root stimulate until they've started growing some roots.

Good luck!


----------



## Justin (Jan 17, 2015)

dont put the pots themselves in larger pots...repot the plants with a finer grade mix or add moss.to retain moisture and cover up all the roots. for removing infected parts be sure to flame or bleach sterilize your tool in between cuts. dont use fertilizer for.now...just water those plants


----------



## Secundino (Jan 17, 2015)

Oh my... 
Keep in mind whatever you do, it should mate with your watering regime and the humidity you want to ( or can) give your plants. 
One example: bigger pots do retain more humidity, naturally. But a sick plant generally does not have lots of healthy roots that can absorbe that humidity, so, if only one or two roots sit in a big pot, they will be too 'wet'. 

37% rel. humidity is desert. Even 50% are - in my perspective - not enough. During winter, I prefer to have the substrate on the dry side and the humidity high (70% and more without wetting the leaves). 
In my opinion, plants without a functioning root system, should not be fertilized, nor soaked. They can not take that water and the risk of losing the roots that are left due to high salt content in the water is high.
Clean the leaves gently. Dry plants mostly have a mite-problem too. With a cotton pad, slightly wettened with some water and soap, you will get rid of most of them (if there are); it also helps to rehydrate the leaves without wettening the whole plant. If they have been as dry as they look, there won't be rots, but: a weakened plant that suddenly gets much more water, can easily rot! And that is the problem: you must rehydrate the plants without giving them to much water. A challenge...


----------



## PaphMadMan (Jan 17, 2015)

Unlike some others, I'm not convinced you have an ongoing fungal problem. I think your weakened plants would have been overcome long ago if there were, but a precautionary treatment won't hurt. Better water and humidity management is definitely needed, and you have plenty of advice on that. 

Like at least one other, I would advocate repotting now, better media, better pots. Let your plants recover in the right conditions rather than a temporary fix.

If your pH question got answered I missed it. pH is pH. Any accurate test will work equally well on any water - municipal, aquarium, with or without fertilizer - within the intended pH range, with 2 exceptions...

A strongly colored solution (some concentrated fertilizers) can interfere with a color change pH test, and... 

A pH test on highly purified water, including very good RO water, can be misleading. If you are certain of the water quality with very low total dissolved solids, a pH test is pointless in that case. It will either be unstable, or misleadingly low due to dissolved carbon dioxide in water with no buffering capacity. Whatever you add to the water, or the potting mix it goes into, will determine the final pH no matter what the apparent pH of pure water.


----------



## gonewild (Jan 17, 2015)

PaphMadMan said:


> Unlike some others, I'm not convinced you have an ongoing fungal problem. I think your weakened plants would have been overcome long ago if there were, but a precautionary treatment won't hurt.



I agree I see more of a dehydration problem than fungal. I would not cut off any green leaf tissue., The plants need all they have now.


----------



## reivilos (Jan 17, 2015)

Honestly, if I were you I'd send everything to the dustbin. Start over and try not make the same mistake(s) twice:
* overpotted 
* underwatered
* mix is too coarse for indoor growing
* I guess would have low humidity also

As an indoor grower, my advice to you would be to grow in a more compact space so as to have higher humidity around the plants.


----------



## MaryPientka (Jan 17, 2015)

I agree with most people above, but I don't think you need to toss them. Definitely repot-better pots/better mix. All of the orchid suppliers sell Paph. blends. You will need to maintain humidity between 50% and 70%. This is especially hard to do in Winter. I use cool mist vaporizers. I agree with not fertilizing for awhile but I think something like Super Thrive might help. Rain water and RO are best but in a pinch you can pick-up gallons of distilled (not filtered or spring) water at any grocery store.


----------



## TyroneGenade (Jan 17, 2015)

orchidbri said:


> Thank you all!
> First off, that is 37% HUMIDITY. Haha. In that room the temperature is 23.3C, or 73F, with little variation.



My home humidity is 28%. Not good. I cope by standing the plants in large plastic tubs with high sides. (About 1-2 inches above the pot height.) I keep the plants standing over gravel that is standing in water. This keeps the humidity up---enough to actually grow and flower the plants. I also grow in hydroton/LECA that avoid issues with over/under watering as the substrate is always wet. This also helps maintain humidity. I don't suggest tossing your plants and starting over from scratch. The advice you have got here is really good and should be able to get you to the point where the plants start to grow. Once you have the growing issues solved, then go bananas and buy more plants.


----------



## PaphMadMan (Jan 17, 2015)

TyroneGenade said:


> My home humidity is 28%. Not good. I cope by standing the plants in large plastic tubs with high sides. (About 1-2 inches above the pot height.) I keep the plants standing over gravel that is standing in water. This keeps the humidity up---enough to actually grow and flower the plants. ...



I completely agree on the usefulness of plastic tubs, and not just for humidity enhancement. I don't know what I would do without them.


----------



## orchidbri (Jan 18, 2015)

The mixture the plants are in is a paph-specific blend from repotme.com, here if you want to see: http://repotme.com/orchid-potting-mix/Orchid-Mix-Paph.html
It consists of Orchiata, lava rock, sponge rock, and hydroton. If I end up repotting, I will mix it with my standard unfertilized orchid mix of fir bark, charcoal, and sponge rock. It was more alike what the plants originally came to me in.

TyroneGenade, I believe humidity trays to be virtually useless there is some height to them. I use leftover 1, 2, 5, 10, and 20 gallon tanks for this purpose. I had siblings with excessive freshwater fish hobbies haha. If I cannot use a tank, I put a large plastic bag over the smallest ones, then place that plant on a humidity tray.

Thanks again guys!


----------



## Justin (Jan 18, 2015)

also suggest doing a web search to see if there is an orchid society in your area. check out a meeting and get some hands-on advice from people who have successfully grown in your neck of the woods.


----------



## PaphMadMan (Jan 18, 2015)

orchidbri said:


> TyroneGenade, I believe humidity trays to be virtually useless there is some height to them. I use leftover 1, 2, 5, 10, and 20 gallon tanks for this purpose. I had siblings with excessive freshwater fish hobbies haha. If I cannot use a tank, I put a large plastic bag over the smallest ones, then place that plant on a humidity tray.
> 
> Thanks again guys!



Perhaps you did not understand. TyroneGenade was not talking about "humidity trays'. He mentioned plastic tubs at least as large and *deep* as the largest tank sizes you cite. If you don't have siblings with excess tanks to donate, plastic storage tubs are a much more economical alternative.


----------



## Paphman910 (Jan 18, 2015)

orchidbri said:


> The mixture the plants are in is a paph-specific blend from repotme.com, here if you want to see: http://repotme.com/orchid-potting-mix/Orchid-Mix-Paph.html
> It consists of Orchiata, lava rock, sponge rock, and hydroton. If I end up repotting, I will mix it with my standard unfertilized orchid mix of fir bark, charcoal, and sponge rock. It was more alike what the plants originally came to me in.
> 
> TyroneGenade, I believe humidity trays to be virtually useless there is some height to them. I use leftover 1, 2, 5, 10, and 20 gallon tanks for this purpose. I had siblings with excessive freshwater fish hobbies haha. If I cannot use a tank, I put a large plastic bag over the smallest ones, then place that plant on a humidity tray.
> ...



You may have to water your plants every other day with that mix of yours. Does not retain moisture for a few days and your roots will probably stop growing. 

The base of the plant should be about 1 cm below the level of the mix. I would add about 20% moss to the mix so keeps moist for longer period.

Do not have fan blowing directly on the plants, otherwise they dry out too fast.

Not sure what kind of light you are using. Better make sure mid day sun is not heating up the leaves. If leaf feels warm then the sunlight is too strong and you will need shading.


----------



## Secundino (Jan 18, 2015)

orchidbri said:


> TyroneGenade, I believe humidity trays to be virtually useless ...
> 
> Thanks again guys!



That's fun, isn't it.:rollhappy::rollhappy:


----------



## NYEric (Jan 18, 2015)

Sterilite trays from Walmart.


----------



## NYEric (Jan 18, 2015)

reivilos said:


> As an indoor grower, my advice to you would be to grow in a more compact space so as to have higher humidity around the plants.


True but... Where does the water fall after watering..??


----------



## orchidsimplicit (Jan 18, 2015)

Great thread!! Thanks Orchidbri for all the questions. I have learned a lot.


----------



## The Mutant (Jan 19, 2015)

About humidity trays and their worthlessness. I had to go and investigate since I have almost all my Paphs standing on trays with leca pellets and water (I have humidifiers too, but anything to help increasing the humidity directly around the plants) and I don't really think an increase of 6-7% of humidity is nothing to sneeze at. It's not amazing but it's something at least.


----------



## NYEric (Jan 19, 2015)

orchidbri said:


> aha... my checklist so far is:
> 
> Phyton 27 and cinnamon
> Cut infected parts and buds off plants
> ...


Um... more water!?
Yes, humidity trays are good only for keeping water off the floor.


----------



## The Mutant (Jan 19, 2015)

NYEric said:


> Um... more water!?
> Yes, humidity trays are good only for keeping water off the floor.


You didn't even read my post, did you? oke:


----------



## NYEric (Jan 19, 2015)

I did. If you can prove that the humidity trays with a raise level and leca in the tray gives more humidity than just putting the plants together in a large tray and watering normally, I will send you a free plant!


----------



## The Mutant (Jan 19, 2015)

NYEric said:


> I did. If you can prove that the humidity trays with a raise level and leca in the tray gives more humidity than just putting the plants together in a large tray and watering normally, I will send you a free plant!


That particular tray (50cm x 28cm or ~19½" x 11") had two Paphs on it, each in a 9cm (~3.5") pot when I measured so not many plants there. I tested on another one of my 'trays' as well ~115cm x 25cm (~45½" x ~15") populated by 3 plants right now of which the largest ones stand in 9cm (~3.5") pots. Sooo... 
It was a very unscientific experiment only conducted about 4 or 5 times since yesterday, but each time I moved the hygrometer to the trays the humidity level rose with 6-7%. The hygrometer is usually with the ones not standing on trays to keep an eye on the general humidity level, so it seems that in my apartment the trays do have some benefits. Not much as I said, but it's always something.


----------



## TyroneGenade (Jan 19, 2015)

Mutant, can you stick the hygrometer in the pots and take measurements? I expect you will see a much bigger difference... If you can't keep the roots sufficiently hydrated the you can't keep the plant hydrated.


----------



## The Mutant (Jan 19, 2015)

TyroneGenade said:


> Mutant, can you stick the hygrometer in the pots and take measurements? I expect you will see a much bigger difference... If you can't keep the roots sufficiently hydrated the you can't keep the plant hydrated.


I can't since it's too big.

I'm trying to make sense of your post but I can't really understand what you're saying. I've already had one severe brainfart tonight, so what's another one or five so here we go:

If I could stick the hygrometer down in the pots are you saying that the difference in humidity between the plants standing on trays and those that are not would be greater? Did I get it? Or?


----------



## Secundino (Jan 19, 2015)

Of course they work (the trays or whatever you use, I mean...), no need to meassure. If I have to add water ever second day in my aquaria, even more water evaporates from the top of wet lapilli. In winter I have to water them on a nearly dayly basis, as the plants do not get water regularly. In summer/during growing, the excess water is enough. And if you use terracotta pots as 'elevators' to have as much plants as possible in a small place, pots that sit in water and are always wet, than you have a nice humidity. 
The trays help, naturally, to keep the floor clean and dry, but that is a secundary effect and not really important if you are a clean piglet like I am.
And back to the thread; if those severly dehydrated plants had a functioning tray beneath them, they would not look like that after only 6 months.


----------



## TyroneGenade (Jan 19, 2015)

The Mutant said:


> I can't since it's too big.
> 
> I'm trying to make sense of your post but I can't really understand what you're saying. I've already had one severe brainfart tonight, so what's another one or five so here we go:
> 
> If I could stick the hygrometer down in the pots are you saying that the difference in humidity between the plants standing on trays and those that are not would be greater? Did I get it? Or?



Ambient humidity affects evaporation. The higher the humidity in the air, the higher humidity in the pot, and the pot humidity is probably much higher...


----------



## The Mutant (Jan 19, 2015)

TyroneGenade said:


> Ambient humidity affects evaporation. The higher the humidity in the air, the higher humidity in the pot, and the pot humidity is probably much higher...


So I got it then? And yes, that's logical that it would work like that and if there's something my plants don't suffer from, it's dehydration. :rollhappy:

Hmm... maybe that's yet another reason why the root rot issue stopped when I started moving my plants away from the windows during night. They don't stand in the trays then, but on benches and the floor.


----------

