# Phrag. pearcei culture



## The Orchid Boy (Nov 26, 2012)

First of all, how do you pronounce "pearcei"? I've been pronouncing it peer-see-i. Is this correct? 

I've been wanting to get a phrag for a while now but lots of the phrags are really big and I really like pearcei. 

-How tall does it get, and what are it's growth habits like? Is it vigorous, slow, ect.?

-How would you water and fertilize it? Some say to put it in a mix with no spagnum and set it in a saucer of water. Others say hydroponics. There is 1 website that sells hydroponic kits and a local nursery and a hydroponic store have materials. But I don't know if I should just jump into hydroponics. Leo says that letting a plant dry too much can be a reason for leaf tip die back. I could buy distilled water if it was in hydroponics. So just need some advice on watering and your opinions on hydroponics. I know phrags usually like a lot more water than paphs.


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## The Mutant (Nov 26, 2012)

I have no idea.

Tall? Do you mean it's spike? According to orchidslippers.info, the spike can be anywhere between 10-45 cm. The leaves, 20 - 40 cm (should mean a leaf span about 40 - 80cm then?).

I've recently gotten my first Phrag, a Green Hornet (pearcei x longfolium in some order) and of what I've heard is that the more light, the faster they grow so I'm keeping mine with my multifloras. They are also faster and more vigorous growers than Paphs and bloom more often too.

I have sphagnum in my mix, and since no one advised me not to (I asked), I think it's okay. I think that it's more important to repot it often if you have sphagnum in the substrate though, since it seems to deteriorate quickly and increase the mineral buildup if I've understood it correctly.

I've also understood that Phrags are more sensitive to water quality and it seem most people water them with RO-/rainwater. I don't and we'll see how it goes. So far, not so good I'm afraid.

I was afraid of over watering, but it seem to be practically impossible to do so, so now I've increased the watering, and there are now plenty of little root nubs starting to grow on the old roots. 

Good luck with your Phrag! It's a handsome species (no, I'm not partial at all only 'cause I have a primary hybrid with pearcei as a parent, no siree).


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## Rick (Nov 26, 2012)

For me this is one of the easiest fastest growing phrags, and I have lots of it.

It can be pretty variable in size, but typically it will have narrow grass/sedge like leaves, and the plant will be 8-12 inches tall. The leaves are much longer, but curve under their own weight so leaf length is anywhere from 10 - 16 inches long.

I think you can pot them anyway you like as long as you give them LOTS of low TDS water.

I have some doing great in a basket just like the gratrixianum I posted, and some in SH. You can plant in straight moss in a basket and leave in a tray of water. They are just super easy.


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## The Orchid Boy (Nov 26, 2012)

The hydroponic orchid website is www.hydro-orchids.com. Is hydroponic worth looking into for this phrag if I use complete fertilizer and pure water or is if more complicated than I think?

And does this phrag need high humidity? Mine is usually around 50%-60%.


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## Rick (Nov 26, 2012)

I think you should also take a look at Ray's site for semi hydro growing.  Works for just about any phrag.


Very simple.


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## SlipperKing (Nov 26, 2012)

Orchid Boy, this might give you a better idea how you can grow pearc-eee-i. Plant's in S/H in a "dixie" cup. been there for a number of years.


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## Eric Muehlbauer (Nov 26, 2012)

P. pearcei, at least in the form labelled "equadorense" is very easy to grow, with leaves about 8-12" long. I'd grow it like a traditional phrag, but it spreads, so if you don't want to re-pot often, put it in a relatively wide pot. Unlike paphs, phrags can do very well when over-potted.


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## SlipperKing (Nov 26, 2012)

The plant I post is the variety "ecuadorense"

Here the judges are looking over my pearcei v pearcei. You can see the size of the plant and the height of the flower.


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## Rick (Nov 26, 2012)

http://www.slippertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26083

Here's the last post of my smaller flowered pearcei


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## The Orchid Boy (Nov 26, 2012)

Thanks for the pictures and help everyone. What should I expect to pay for a BS or NBS one? Hauserman's had them for $12.50 and $20. If I decide to do hydroponics, what size pot should I get?


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## eggshells (Nov 27, 2012)

SlipperKing said:


> Orchid Boy, this might give you a better idea how you can grow pearc-eee-i. Plant's in S/H in a "dixie" cup. been there for a number of years.



That's a cute plant Rick.


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## NYEric (Nov 27, 2012)

As mentioned there are 2 types pearcei and ecuadorense. try to get a multi-growth plant. mine is in a tray w/ water flowing so the roots are wet. I pronounse it peer-say-ee!


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## The Orchid Boy (Nov 27, 2012)

http://www.slippertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25919&highlight=phrag+pearcei

I really like the color on the pearcei in the first post and second picture.


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## The Orchid Boy (Nov 27, 2012)

First Rays has this kind of pot. No holes in the bottom, holes farther up the sides. https://www.firstrays.com/cgi/cart/....261&product=Containers!S/H&pid=543&keywords=

Hydro-orchids has this kind of pot. Slots on side and holes in bottom. You are supposed to set it in an outer pot or in a saucer. http://www.hydro-orchids-store.com/6culturepot.html

Is one better or easier?


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## Rick (Nov 27, 2012)

The Orchid Boy said:


> First Rays has this kind of pot. No holes in the bottom, holes farther up the sides. https://www.firstrays.com/cgi/cart/....261&product=Containers!S/H&pid=543&keywords=
> 
> Hydro-orchids has this kind of pot. Slots on side and holes in bottom. You are supposed to set it in an outer pot or in a saucer. http://www.hydro-orchids-store.com/6culturepot.html
> 
> Is one better or easier?



No. As long as Ray's pots are clear you can see how much water is in the reservoir. If you use a standard opaque pot or basket, then you need to use a tray, and then you can directly see how much water is in the tray.

If you use a fine plastic net basket then be prepared to leave the plant in the basket indefinitely, and just periodically set the plant, basket and all into a new basket as it grows. Otherwise you'll never get the roots untangled without breaking them up too much.


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## Rick (Nov 27, 2012)

NYEric said:


> As mentioned there are 2 types pearcei and ecuadorense.



Actually there's probably infinite minor variation in the pearcei/ecuadorense concept. big-small and mostly green - shades of pink added.

John M thinks there is a hybrid swarm between pearcei and boisieranum.

IMHO I think its just a very common weed species in the countries of origin, that is just highly variable. Even within the local populations.


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## SlipperKing (Nov 29, 2012)

John M thinks there is a hybrid swarm between pearcei and boisieranum.
Rick,
Isn't this suppose to be richteri?


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## Rick (Nov 29, 2012)

SlipperKing said:


> John M thinks there is a hybrid swarm between pearcei and boisieranum.
> Rick,
> Isn't this suppose to be richteri?



He was refering to pearcei at the time.


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## The Orchid Boy (Nov 29, 2012)

Does P. pearcei need humidity above 50%?


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## wjs2nd (Nov 30, 2012)

If you keep it with wet feet (which you should) you should be okay with lower humidity. I have lower humidity in my house and everything does fine.


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## cnycharles (Nov 30, 2012)

the one thing I had problems with, when I had my first pearcei, was in winter the plant was too cool, and didn't grow/rotted. I had had someone tell me that they liked to be 'cool', so I had it near my bedroom window (winter). with it sitting in water most of the time, it sulked and died

later on I was told that it liked what is called 'warm' for upstate ny most of the time, and definitely not near a window in winter! (at least a window that is leaky and the room temp was never over 60F)


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## Rick (Nov 30, 2012)

cnycharles said:


> the one thing I had problems with, when I had my first pearcei, was in winter the plant was too cool, and didn't grow/rotted. I had had someone tell me that they liked to be 'cool', so I had it near my bedroom window (winter). with it sitting in water most of the time, it sulked and died
> 
> later on I was told that it liked what is called 'warm' for upstate ny most of the time, and definitely not near a window in winter! (at least a window that is leaky and the room temp was never over 60F)



Not sure how cool you got to Charles, but I've had both my biggest pearcei since 2001/2002, and at that time I would let my GH get down into the mid 50's at night.


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## cnycharles (Nov 30, 2012)

but how warm during the day? that window was also pretty leaky, and may never have gotten over 60 for quite a while. it definitely wasn't trying to do any growing but was happy to decline. it looked reasonably nice when I got it, though. i'm sure you were taking better care of your plant in your setup than I was in my window


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## The Orchid Boy (Dec 9, 2012)

For hydroponics should I use Dyna-Grow? If so what one? And should I use the fine, medium, or course LECA? The most popular/widely used is medium.


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## Rick (Dec 10, 2012)

The Orchid Boy said:


> For hydroponics should I use Dyna-Grow? If so what one? And should I use the fine, medium, or course LECA? The most popular/widely used is medium.



I would use a coarse LECA and for a fert (if you don't want to use K lite) use something with relatively low K. Is there a 30 - 10 - 10?

Then use it real weak (like at 20-40 ppm N) in diluted tap or well water.


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## The Orchid Boy (Dec 10, 2012)

I saw a 7-9-5 Dyna-Grow fertilizer. There is also 7-7-7 and 10-5-5. to get 20-40 ppm N about how much fertilizer do I use? It says for maintanence use 1/4 - 1/2 a tsp and hydroponics (non-circulating) 1 tsp per gallon. If I do hydroponics use distilled/RO water or hard well water or softened water?


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## Rick (Dec 10, 2012)

The Orchid Boy said:


> I saw a 7-9-5 Dyna-Grow fertilizer. There is also 7-7-7 and 10-5-5. to get 20-40 ppm N about how much fertilizer do I use? It says for maintanence use 1/4 - 1/2 a tsp and hydroponics (non-circulating) 1 tsp per gallon. If I do hydroponics use distilled/RO water or hard well water or softened water?



I'd use the 10-5-5. At 1/4 tsp/gal you should be down less than 50ppm N.

Does this fert have supplemental Ca and Mg?

Depending on the answer to the above question, I would use RO with enough well water to ge the hardness around 20ppm (as CaCO3) as your base water.


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## The Orchid Boy (Dec 10, 2012)

I'm pretty sure it does but not 100% sure. Their site says the fertilizer supplies the 16 nutrients that all plants need.

Here's a picture of the plant I ordered through our local vendor. It had a spike this summer but it aborted do to excessive heat.


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## SlipperKing (Dec 10, 2012)

It must of been boiling then. Mine grow and bloom fine as high as mid 90's


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## The Orchid Boy (Dec 10, 2012)

I think also there wasn't enough humidity or air movement. The grower is in Hawaii.

Any tips on how to grow it without S/H until I get it transfered? I'll be using Dyna-Gro and distilled water. Should I flush it? Water it everyday? Keep it sitting in water? Use sphagnum in some way? I water all my bog plants and carnivores with distilled water in saucers and don't refill the saucers till the saucers are just dry. Would this method work for just a while or permanently?


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## NYEric (Dec 11, 2012)

I grow mine in a little water, I generally keep my fertilizer content pretty low.


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## Rick (Dec 11, 2012)

These guys are just not that picky.

They like lots of water. I don't think it makes that much different if in a basket of moss watered everyday, or in a pot of bark sitting in a saucer of water.


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## Clark (Dec 11, 2012)

Convinced mine are duds after reading this thread.
Garbage pickup is on Tuesday.


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## cnycharles (Dec 11, 2012)

Clark said:


> Convinced mine are duds after reading this thread.
> Garbage pickup is on Tuesday.



hey remember that I had asked you about those? .. and that you were disgusted with your paph roth and sent it my way and it started growing? maybe the same thing will happen with your pearcei; can't hurt


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## Clark (Dec 11, 2012)

You can have them.


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## SlipperKing (Dec 11, 2012)

You're too easy Clark!


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## Clark (Dec 12, 2012)

Can't wait to get them outta here.
Just a pile of leaves.


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## The Orchid Boy (Dec 15, 2012)

I counted the growths on mine today and I counted around 15-20 growths. I got it for $50. I know this price is probably quite high but I knew it would be a great plant and it has lots of leaves and lots of roots and is very healthy.


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## Rick (Dec 16, 2012)

The Orchid Boy said:


> I counted the growths on mine today and I counted around 15-20 growths. I got it for $50. I know this price is probably quite high but I knew it would be a great plant and it has lots of leaves and lots of roots and is very healthy.



15-20 is a small clump (rather than a few divisions) so I don't think $50 is all that high. It should have good blooming potential. One of my pearcei has just kicked in with two spikes. So maybe you'll get to see some blooms in short notice.


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## The Orchid Boy (Dec 16, 2012)

Rick said:


> 15-20 is a small clump (rather than a few divisions) so I don't think $50 is all that high. It should have good blooming potential. One of my pearcei has just kicked in with two spikes. So maybe you'll get to see some blooms in short notice.



Good to know. 

I hope to order stuff for S/H soon. I just need the LECA and pot. I thought about ordering from Hydro-Orchids. What size pot should I get? 4" or 5" or bigger? Thanks so much for your help and pictures everyone, especially you Rick!


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## Rick (Dec 16, 2012)

I'd probably go 8-10" with 15-20 growths.

Once established these guys grow like mad.


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## The Orchid Boy (Dec 16, 2012)

So they don't mind being over-potted? Right now it's in a 4" pot and doesn't completely fill it, there's a little space left.


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## Eric Muehlbauer (Dec 16, 2012)

Unlike paphs, phrags can do quite well when overpotted. They also tolerate old media very well. While I try to repot paphs after12-18 months, I usually wait 3 years before repotting phrags.


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## Rick (Dec 16, 2012)

The Orchid Boy said:


> So they don't mind being over-potted?



Certainly not if they are in a clay type inert media.


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## The Orchid Boy (Dec 16, 2012)

I'll probably get the stuff from a local hydroponics store but it will be a while until I'm able to get there. If I get an 8"-10" inch pot (twice the size of pot it is in now, sorry, just can't used to idea of wet phrags) what style of pot should I get? I'll be using one with a saucer. There are net pots, regular pots, pots w/ netting only on bottom, slotted pots, ect. And should I use a deep saucer or just a regular shallow one?

When would be best to transfer it? Should I use a little K-L-N rooting stuff?


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## Brabantia (Dec 17, 2012)

NYEric said:


> I grow mine in a little water, I generally keep my fertilizer content pretty low.



What do you understand by pretty low? I prefer a value expressed there ppm Nitrogen or gr/L or tsp / gal of fertilyser. Personally I feed my Phrag. pearceii at 0.5 gr / L MSU 1x week.


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## The Orchid Boy (Dec 17, 2012)

I have Dyna-Gro 7-8-6 Urea free and it says use 1/2 tsp. per gallon every watering and that is a 1:1500 ratio. I thought about using 1/4 or 1/8 tsp. per gallon of water. What do you think?


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## NYEric (Dec 17, 2012)

Brabantia said:


> What do you understand by pretty low? I prefer a value expressed there ppm Nitrogen or gr/L or tsp / gal of fertilyser. Personally I feed my Phrag. pearceii at 0.5 gr / L MSU 1x week.



means I only fertilize plants a couple times a year. Growing in hydro.


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## gonewild (Dec 17, 2012)

NYEric said:


> means I only fertilize plants a couple times a year. Growing in hydro.



weakly yearly?


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## NYEric (Dec 17, 2012)

Yep.


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## Brabantia (Dec 18, 2012)

The Orchid Boy said:


> I have Dyna-Gro 7-8-6 Urea free and it says use 1/2 tsp. per gallon every watering and that is a 1:1500 ratio. I thought about using 1/4 or 1/8 tsp. per gallon of water. What do you think?


.

Not the ideal fertilyser for Phrag. (and other orchids also). Try to use MSU fertilyser or similar. Dyna-Grow fertilyser is to high for Phosphorus and Potassium versus Nitrogen. It has a low content in Calcium and Magnesium and because you will use it more diluted as recommended it will remain in solution for these two vital elements for plants a very very little concentration ... don't forget you need to use rain water or R.O. water. Use MSU or K-Lite fertilysers at 0.5 gr per liter (R.W or R.O. water) and you will see a big improvement in your cultures. 
I recommend you to read all the informations about fertilyser from Erik and other on this forum .


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## Rick (Dec 18, 2012)

The Orchid Boy said:


> I have Dyna-Gro 7-8-6 Urea free and it says use 1/2 tsp. per gallon every watering and that is a 1:1500 ratio. I thought about using 1/4 or 1/8 tsp. per gallon of water. What do you think?



Whatever happened to the 10-5-5?


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## The Orchid Boy (Dec 19, 2012)

I couldn't find the 10-5-5 locally. I know MSU is probably better but I kind of have to watch my budget. Maybe there will be some other fertilizers at the orchid show in less than 2 months.


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## The Orchid Boy (Dec 19, 2012)

Should I just stop fertlizing all orchids completely until I get some other?

Edit: Maybe I could get some MSU or K-lite. What place online has the best stuff for the best price? Could I use the same stuff for distilled and rain water as I would for well water? I usually use rainwater with all my orchids as much as I can but once in a while I have to use well water. I use store bought distilled water for my phrag, masdevallia, and carnivorous plants.


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## The Orchid Boy (Dec 19, 2012)

What is better for a mixed orchid collection in all sorts of media: MSU or K-Lite? See above post for the water I use.^


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## gonewild (Dec 19, 2012)

The Orchid Boy said:


> Should I just stop fertlizing all orchids completely until I get some other?
> 
> Edit: Maybe I could get some MSU or K-lite. What place online has the best stuff for the best price?



First Rays to buy fertilizer.


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## gonewild (Dec 19, 2012)

The Orchid Boy said:


> What is better for a mixed orchid collection in all sorts of media: MSU or K-Lite? See above post for the water I use.^



Use the K-Lite.


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## The Orchid Boy (Dec 19, 2012)

Thanks for the info. One question that didn't get answered: When should I transfer to semi-hydro and should I use Dyna-Gro N-P-K when I do?

Just wondering, how close should I have it to T5 lights? It is about 13 inches from the tubes. I don't have I light meter. I think I had my plants too close before. Could all the paphs be closer than the phals?

Thanks so much everyone. You really have helped a lot.


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## Rick (Dec 19, 2012)

I wouldn't bother with the Dynagrow.


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## gonewild (Dec 19, 2012)

The Orchid Boy said:


> Thanks for the info. One question that didn't get answered: When should I transfer to semi-hydro and should I use Dyna-Gro N-P-K when I do?
> 
> Just wondering, how close should I have it to T5 lights? It is about 13 inches from the tubes. I don't have I light meter. I think I had my plants too close before. Could all the paphs be closer than the phals?
> 
> Thanks so much everyone. You really have helped a lot.



I always like to replant a plant into my own media as soon as I get it. I don't like having someone else's dirt around. 

As a general rule the best time to repot any plant is rigfht before it starts to grow new roots.

I won't say whether you should use Dyna-gro right away or not because I would not use it in the first place. Generally I would water with clear water when you repot and then apply fertilizer the next time you water.

The P. pearcei will take all the light you throw at it. In nature they grow in pretty much full sun. But also when they are growing wild they are often mixed in with grass that provide the leaves some shade.


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## Rick (Dec 19, 2012)

gonewild said:


> I won't say whether you should use Dyna-gro right away or not because I would not use it in the first place. Generally I would water with clear water when you repot and then apply fertilizer the next time you water.



Yup. This time of year you could skip fertilizing till March/April and not make a difference.


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