Compare Clones, callosum,acmodontum and pearcei complex

SlipperKing · May 26, 2016

I've posted the vinicolored callosum already but here it is stacked up against a standard Thai callosum and a sibling plant not quite open yet

This PIC came out pretty cool so I thought you all might like to see the "halo" in the callosum dorsal.

My three acmodontums all blooming. All of the same cross.

Paph%20acmodontum%20comp1_zpsoqqek7xo.jpg

Here is the newest one opened

Now the leaves of all three plants

Moving on to the green Phrags.
First is my awarded pearcei 'Little Angel'

Phrag%20pearcei%20Little%20Angel1_zpsi1w6hy4p.jpg

ecuadorense from a fellow STer

And lastly, my awarded richteri 'Crooked Creek'

Phrag%20richteri%20Crooked%20Creek1_zps9fn9uzyv.jpg

Now all three together.
I personally don't see how someone could confuse richteri with either one of the others. I could be in possession of three of the most extreme examples and be way off.

abax · May 26, 2016

Interesting comparison, but I'm not knowledgable enough
about green Phrags. to see small differences. I do see
some large differences however...I think.

Bjorn · May 27, 2016

The flowers seem very similar, so looking at flower pictures one may wonder whether or not its the same species. However, seeing the size-comparison in the last picture its easier to accept that they could be different species. I have an equadorense myself and it is indeed a tiny plant. Guess the yellowing leaves in the last picture belongs to that one, right Rick?
Judging by size alone is not a good indicator for species though

. I have myself similar size-differences between flowering Eumelia Arias so one obviously hve to be careful here.

JeanLux · May 27, 2016

Great growing Rick, bravo !!!! Jean

SlipperKing · May 27, 2016

Thanks Jean. That's right Bjorn. It has heavy turnover of leaves but it grows excessively fast too. I can't figure out how to slow the leaf loss. Its in S/H, weak N (10-20 ppm) and not every watering. Maybe this species/variety needs higher nitrogen levels. It has a massive root system as seen through the plastic container. Its also one of the few Phrags that gets leaf tip burn which would say there's too much salt present. Any ideas?

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

Justin · May 27, 2016

Great show

NYEric · May 27, 2016

abax said:
Interesting comparison, but I'm not knowledgable enough
about green Phrags. to see small differences. I do see
some large differences however...I think.

:rollhappy:
Thanks for sharing.

Bjorn · May 27, 2016

SlipperKing said:
Thanks Jean. That's right Bjorn. It has heavy turnover of leaves but it grows excessively fast too. I can't figure out how to slow the leaf loss. Its in S/H, weak N (10-20 ppm) and not every watering. Maybe this species/variety needs higher nitrogen levels. It has a massive root system as seen through the plastic container. Its also one of the few Phrags that gets leaf tip burn which would say there's too much salt present. Any ideas?

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

Not really, mine tend to have a bit of the same, perhaps not as much, my N fertilisation lies around 15-20ppm but in all water. I do not see any leaf tip burn though, touch wood

More N could be something, what about ammonium/nitrate ratio? Mine is close to 2/1.

SlipperKing · May 27, 2016

My ratio is flipped I bet

Gilda · May 27, 2016

WOW !!! stunning comparisons !:clap: I'll leave the scientific jargon to the rest of you

Love them all !

SlipperFan · May 27, 2016

Cool photos. I'm waiting for geneticists to sort this group out.

eteson · Jun 3, 2016

Nice pictures
IMHO ecuadorense and pearcei are the same thing .You can find very small differences (size? and petal angle) to split them in two species. Richteri=Taras=Merinoi is a hybrid and can be easily distinguished from pearcei.

paphioboy · Jun 6, 2016

Very nice bunch, Rick..

John M · Jun 7, 2016

Ooooh, I really like the richteri! It's very vigorous and beautiful!

Brabantia · Jun 12, 2016

Bjorn said:
Not really, mine tend to have a bit of the same, perhaps not as much, my N fertilisation lies around 15-20ppm but in all water. I do not see any leaf tip burn though, touch wood
More N could be something, what about ammonium/nitrate ratio? Mine is close to 2/1.

How do you manage the pH of your potting whit such high ratio NH4+/NO3_ ? Sometimes dit you measure the pH by the pour throug method ?

Bjorn · Jun 13, 2016

Brabantia said:
How do you manage the pH of your potting whit such high ratio NH4+/NO3_ ? Sometimes dit you measure the pH by the pour throug method ?

There is a generous amount of citric acid in the system so the system is well buffered and the initial pH of the fertilising water is around 5.5-6 (at 50-60ppm).
I have measured pour-through a couple of times and never found any different from what I feed in , pH 5-6..
This story about acidifying of the substrate by NH4+ uptake is probably true for regular plants in soil but for paphs I think it is questionable.
Remember, also paphs have velamen, secondly; at least I pour so much water (with fertiliser) through every day that the possible influence iof the plants metabolites is totally irrelevant. But generally, ammonium(NH4+) in water gives an acidic reaction that is true

But that is not because of any plant metabolism.

Compare Clones, callosum,acmodontum and pearcei complex

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