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Whatever it is, it is attractive...

Great species. Love the super macros.

14 gauge galvanized wire that I straighten. I make a U-shaped bend at one end, then a 90 degree bend just below that. Cut to desired length.

Well, I always have plants to pick up from Ecuagenera, and spent more than I should have at a vendor from Thailand, so that was a plus, at least for a species bigot like me. Plus it's always nice to say hello to some of the vendors I've known for years.

I like that second one.

That is kind of attractive...

First, I don't use a complete enclosure or tent; I have a piece of black velvet that I hang from a dowel some distance behind the plant. Second, I use three flash units on light stands. One on each side, one above. Each flash equipped with a diffuser, approximately 10" diagonal, perhaps a...

In general, the best time to repot any orchid is when the plant is actively making new roots, and those roots are long enough to not have their tips broken off, but short enough to again avoid damage from potting stuff. As far as tolumnias go, I don't grow them, but my understanding is that...

Well, that's impressive.

My, my. I do so like a hairy flower.

Well, that's impressive.

I have a Dendrobium aggregatum I bought from Lager & Hurrel around 1977. I also have an encyclia of dubious ID that came in a mesh bag from the Sun Bulb Company, again around 1977. Paph concolor I picked up around the late 80s. Then there's some of the old clones of Paphiopedilums and...

They must have bought the business from Shirley Kelley. I remember her from when she was in (or near) Morristown, NJ.

The whole discussion of air-cone pots brought me back to the days when Ray Rands was active in the orchid business. For those not seasoned enough to remember, he sold mostly Paphiopedilums back in the 80s and before. His advertisements in the AOS Bulletin were entertaining, the Dr. Toot comments...

Well, you can get clear pots. And you can get small pots that you put upside down in the bottom of those clear pots. Sort of a poor-man's Aircone pot. I've bought the Air-cone pots mostly because I remember Ray Rands' advertisements. Dr. Toot indeed.

As far as chemical warfare goes, you could try something like Safer's soap. It's a potassium salt of fatty acids, and messes with the cell membranes of the targeted insects. The weakness is that it requires contact. Another alternative is a synthetic pyrethroid, like bifenthrin. It is a waxy...

As a general principle, I give my plant as much light as they can take without burning. Paphiopedilum rothschildianum and its hybrids can take at least as much light as a cattleya. If adapted to the light from spring, I've found that sun from morning to around 1pm is fine, even when the daytime...

This kind will often retain their leaves for a year - dropping them at the end of their second growing season.

My experience with spider mites is that they give a "silvering" effect on leaves, not a rusty-colored effect. My preference would be to go nuclear with mites - kill them hard and fast, so that they don't spread or develop resistance to any pesticide you may choose to use.

If the plant is surrounding the mount, am I safe in assuming that you have it suspended somehow? In artificial growing conditions, a mount isn't really needed, but is more a convenience. Just run a wire hook through the plant, catching the rhizome, should be just fine...