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Without knowing all the details of your growing set up and methods, I am still doubtful that pH alone was the issue. I remember the original post where you discussed this problem, I was not able to figure out what the source of your problem was, the discussion was long and there was a lot of back and forth between you and Ray & a few others. I think there was something unique in the way you were doing things that resulted in your problem. I think your situation was a special case. Something in the combination of your technique and your water and fertilizers were creating the 'perfect storm' that caused your loss of plants. It won't be helpful to rehash this here. This post is intended as a rough idea of what is 'good enough' for most average growers. This method certainly works for me.Two things I did not add to the original post, and probably should have.(1.)When I did use pure RO water (I don't any more due to low water pressure causing it to take to long to make and having 'good enough' municipal water) I never watered with pure RO water, I always added at least 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of MSU fertilizer. Never would I do a pure RO flush watering of the plants. Putting a little fertilizer in seemed to keep the plants from developing chlorosis. Personally the last few years I have been fertilizing at 1/2 teaspoon per gallon continuously with every single watering. I don't bother with the 'clear flush' that many promote. I figure I like to eat everyday, I assume the orchids like to eat every day.(2.) I do not dry plants out all the way between watering. I will let them get near to dry, but I have my best results by NOT drying the plants out. I tend to grow rather wet. When I get leaf tip die back it is almost always after a hard drying out. Leaf tip die back can be prevented by growing a little wetter. I do dry out plants with specific dry season requirements. I do this by physically taking them out of the growing area and putting them somewhere else so I don't forget and water them.
Without knowing all the details of your growing set up and methods, I am still doubtful that pH alone was the issue. I remember the original post where you discussed this problem, I was not able to figure out what the source of your problem was, the discussion was long and there was a lot of back and forth between you and Ray & a few others. I think there was something unique in the way you were doing things that resulted in your problem. I think your situation was a special case. Something in the combination of your technique and your water and fertilizers were creating the 'perfect storm' that caused your loss of plants. It won't be helpful to rehash this here. This post is intended as a rough idea of what is 'good enough' for most average growers. This method certainly works for me.
Two things I did not add to the original post, and probably should have.
(1.)When I did use pure RO water (I don't any more due to low water pressure causing it to take to long to make and having 'good enough' municipal water) I never watered with pure RO water, I always added at least 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of MSU fertilizer. Never would I do a pure RO flush watering of the plants. Putting a little fertilizer in seemed to keep the plants from developing chlorosis. Personally the last few years I have been fertilizing at 1/2 teaspoon per gallon continuously with every single watering. I don't bother with the 'clear flush' that many promote. I figure I like to eat everyday, I assume the orchids like to eat every day.
(2.) I do not dry plants out all the way between watering. I will let them get near to dry, but I have my best results by NOT drying the plants out. I tend to grow rather wet. When I get leaf tip die back it is almost always after a hard drying out. Leaf tip die back can be prevented by growing a little wetter. I do dry out plants with specific dry season requirements. I do this by physically taking them out of the growing area and putting them somewhere else so I don't forget and water them.
