Ophrys

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I'd be careful about how much organic material is used, and avoid anything with sphagnum peat. A mix of not more than 30% organic to 70% inorganic is best IMO. Use fine grained inorganics like those used for Cyps - soil perfector, perlite, sermis, expanded clay, and even silica sand. For the organic I'd use something of higher quality and not likely to contain fertilizers. In the end you want a very free draining mix with a pH around neutral.

Grow in as much sunlight as possible and keep temps above freezing, but cool. After flowering, start to dry them out. They should go dormant completely, and then stop watering. During summer keep them dry. I dry the tubers out completely and store them in a freezer bag for the summer. I only grow tenthredinifera, but this seems to work well.
 
I agree with what Tom said.

I have good experience with cocos based peat/fibre at less than 20%, or no organics at all.
 
I would definitely keep to an inorganic mix. Perlite, pumice and VERY coarse sand with only 10% organics (composted pine needles is good -but add some dolomitic lime to this). They need to be dry but not baked over the summer. I give mine a first watering at the end of August and then watering is proportionate to the amount of top growth present. As the first flower opens cut back on the watering dramatically then dry off. As the top-growth dies back it is tempting to try to rescue it with more water -this will rot the new season's tuber. Most Ophrys are hardy to at least -2ºC (28ºF) but if exposed to low mid-winter temperatures it is important not to water during this time. It is also best that you avoid getting water onto the rosettes/foliage from mid-winter onwards. In Scotland I grow mine in a frost-free greenhouse. Full sun is best over Winter but if you give some shade and keep them cool in the Spring they will stay in growth longer and will often then produce two new replacement tubers.
 

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