philippinense fma. album (from seedling to inflorescence)

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Mocchaccino

Biomedical Scientist
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Location
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Purchased as a seedling; potted in 3" pot full NZ sphagnum in July 2011, leaf span was approximately 3.5"


April 2012: still in 3" pot; leaf span not measured


repotted into 4" pot (aliflor, charcoal) in 2013

March 2015: flower spike emerged. was repotted previously in 4" pot (aliflor, charcoal, bark, limestone gravel)




Today: Leaf span 11". though only 2 flower spikes, I very much appreciated its effort. It would still generously spike 2 buds under horrible conditions (after severe mites and scales attack in these 4 years). Flower will be opening soon. Shall update in Paphiopedilum section once it is in full bloom.



Growing condition:
2 x T5 (18W each) fluorescent tubes (150 FC measured)
Night temperature currently: 18 - 22 C with air conditioning and with humidifier
Humidity at night: 40 - 50%
Day temperature currently: 22 - 26 C with fan
Humidity daytime: 60 - 90% with humidifier
 
Thank you for all positive comments.

wonderful! looks like it will have nice, crisp stripes.
Thank you. I hope it will produce a nice form of flower though I dont pretty much expect anymore from her. She had suffered from pest infestations a lot before. She was treating me nice even though I paid very little attention when I was obsessed with my reef system. :p

I notice that the flowering growth only has 3 leaves left, does it implies something?

Literally implies nothing. Actually it has two leaves only. If I have not mistaken I believe I might have explained it to you earlier in private:eek:, anyway...it was due to underwatering for a short period of time. Perhaps accompanied with persistent low grade infestation by false spider mites, premature yellowing of leaves was noted. There's no worry about the root system. I had just repotted it just prior to its spiking. Ample healthy roots were observed.
 
No worries. Besides healthy roots, it has a supporting mature back growth. I am pretty sure it wont be a problem to let it bloom.:rollhappy::rollhappy:

Based on the plant's condition I could see in the photo, I would suggest you cut the spike right after all buds are opened, in order to let the plant to allocate more nutrients to the new growth. This will improve the flower count and quality for the next flowering, in theory.:)
 
Oh the ordeal.

Bet just about everyone has had battles like that...some won, some lost.

The satisfaction when a challenging plant blooms is so much greater than ones that keep below the 'radar' and just show up annually like clockwork.

Thanks for the chronological pics.
 
Oh the ordeal.

Bet just about everyone has had battles like that...some won, some lost.

The satisfaction when a challenging plant blooms is so much greater than ones that keep below the 'radar' and just show up annually like clockwork.

Thanks for the chronological pics.

I lost quite a number of slipper orchids due to severe infestation by armored scales. It took me half a year not just by researching on the best and rotating pesticide to use but also the effort to clear the bugs up. Although finally I resolved the problem I lost some precious species.

I agree the largest satisfaction is not how the flower opening in a nice form but the path to raise it from babies
 
Nice... Phili alba is really slow-growing. My seedling is still taking its time maturing a single growth.

What's your GH? I found that mine is pretty fast-growing on the contrary. It took less than a year to double in size. Under my dim lighting fluorescence (approximately measured at 150FC, 18 hours), it turned out to start a new growth on the second year. It then blooms for me this year (the forth year). I guess if more light could be supplemented, growing in a greenhouse for example, it should have grown even faster, perhaps 2 years to mature?
 
What's your GH? I found that mine is pretty fast-growing on the contrary. It took less than a year to double in size. Under my dim lighting fluorescence (approximately measured at 150FC, 18 hours), it turned out to start a new growth on the second year. It then blooms for me this year (the forth year). I guess if more light could be supplemented, growing in a greenhouse for example, it should have grown even faster, perhaps 2 years to mature?

I grow outdoors, tropical lowland. It receives bright filtered light under a single layer of white shadecloth. Mine is a Taiwanese cross of phili alba, I forgot the clonal names...
 
I grow outdoors, tropical lowland. It receives bright filtered light under a single layer of white shadecloth. Mine is a Taiwanese cross of phili alba, I forgot the clonal names...

Sounds like a pretty good GH of which i dreamed of. I live in cities. Outdoor growing is almost impossible. Perhaps too much light? I am growing it under 150 FC. I believe some albinos may not pretty much like too much light. It may also be a clonal difference. Just wild guess
 

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