Reddish orange marks

[troy]

Can you guys please tell me what this is

 

[lepetitmartien]

Can't be sure for the first ones save there maybe a fungus at work, but on the last I guess there's evil little spidermites.

Last pic: the fungus seems to be inside the leaf and spreading, I'd cut part of the leaf, at least 2-3 cm from the earliest visible necrosis. And treat for both issues (await 2-3 days between treatments if using chemicals, starting with mites)

Second pic, the line on the left is related or not?

These are my 2 cents, wait other advices before starting WW3

 

[troy]

The last one is quarntined, spidermites? I'll cut the bad part of leaf off that growth is starting to put up a spike. !#/^ !!!

 

[troy]

It's all over that plant, conco bellatulum x lady isabel, Isolated case, just put out a new growth and going into spike !#/^ !!! The plant is doomed?

 

[lepetitmartien]

Not doomed, but you'll have to fight.

Another track to check, as I just saw pics on a french forum: thrips. The first 2 pics can be related.

Now we need experienced growers to confirm or not my guess, or enlight us with their glittering knowledge… Fast!

 

[Trithor]

Are these the plants and marks you describe in your other thread?

 

[troy]

Yes

 

[troy]

The rhizome on a few of my plants has that effects the leaf edges then gradually moves across the leaf base it turns black then falls off

 

[troy]

Any help will be very appreciated!! Thanks

 

[Trithor]

That is the pattern of a fungal or a bacterial infection. The pathogen involved will spread rapidly around your collection (water splashing off infected leaf/plant part onto other plants) or carried by biting insects or infected tools. The infection can also be moving onto the plants from the original primary source. Pathogens are ubiquitous in the environment and potting media and infection generally only occurs when there is a change in balance of micro flora, incorrect cultural practice or plant injury.
We have all dealt with similar on more than one occasion, generally at change in season (fall or spring). I don't know how big your collection is, but if they are clustered together in a small area, chances are that they are all contaminated if not infected. I would isolate the plants from each other (distribute them around the house as 'pot plants'. Then, clean and disinfect the grow area/stand. Pay particular attention to the presence of a drip spot or place that condensation can be building up and dripping onto your plants. I would then treat each plant individually. Start with the unaffected plants and hose them down properly with clean tepid water, allow them to dry out properly. Do not return them to the grow area for o a few days while you inspect them regularly to make sure they are disease free. Treat each infected plant in isolation from each other and from any other plant. Wash your hands between one plant and the next. Disinfect all tools between one plant and the next.
At the stage that you are at, I would say that chemical treatment is unavoidable. I have never used Physan, so I cannot advise you, but if it is available to you, I would use it. You can try a range of other treatments. Some have been discussed on this forum repeatedly, so I guess if you search you will find a multitude of threads on this topic. Sadly the reality is that infected plants seldom recover. In my opinion the best treatment is preventative rather than curative. Identify the source, change your grow area, change your culture, give your plants a spray with a fungicide in early spring and fall, increase air circulation, perhaps water with an EM solution every few months, and .... Good luck!

 

[troy]

Thanks trithor the other day I cleaned everything with bleach including the outer sides of every pot got 2 huge bags of orchiata 1 bag of fir bark some new zeland sphagum moss bag of perlite, charcoal and crushed river rock and repotted everything that didn't smell fresh. That 1 plant is really bad I set with a few phals and house plants I don't care about in my living room. And foliar sprayed and drenched with epsom salts that really helped

 

[Trithor]

I am not too sure that Epsom is of much use, unless your plants are Mg deficient, and the effects of an Mg dose would only really manifest in delay, rather than immediate. If anything the drench was perhaps the cause of the effect. You can also try a disprin solution (I suspect that the immediate result of this is more the result of a pH change rather than the acetyl salycylate, although I am told that it is involved in the plants immune/resistance.

 

[troy]

I'm trying to hunt down copper sulfate and physan

 

[Justin]

orchidmix.com

they have phyton too.

 

[troy]

I've been calling ag suppliers over here none of them know what I'm talkin about

 

[Happypaphy7]

First picture, it's mechanical damage.
When paphs leaves are pinched or crushed, they will turn orange/brown. The white part you see is the air packet due to separation of the cuticle layer.

The second picture, it could also be mechanical, but I would say rust disease.
Keep an eye on it.

The last one is the worst. It is a leaf rot that I hate to see on paphs.
While it is rare for me, there's usually about two plants that suffer from this.
You want to cut this off as soon as you see it as it progresses fast.
Then just hope it won't come back.
It may or may not come back. The ones that are affected by this rot seem to have recurrence, so keep a very close eye on the plant for any recurrence.
If you have spray, use it.

Isolate from other healthy plants and do not splash water all over the plants when you see this going on.

Good luck!