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Stonei 6 growth for sale

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ehanes7612

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6 growth stonei for sale 225.00 plus shipping (and its a pretty big plant)..It got a little too much sun last year so some of the leaves are slightly yellowed. Its had this sheath thing on the oldest growth for over a year..I just dont think it wants to bloom for me. Its never bloomed. I bought it from Sam four years ago as a BS one growth adult..so its grown really well. Its even starting a new growth as we speak (not in pic)

IMG_1251.JPG
 
Ed, if it were possible to get the plant to South Africa, I would certainly consider it.

How easy is it to get things sent to South Africa? We have tough quarantine laws here which make it very difficult and expensive to get plants imported in. There is a high risk the plant won't even survive the process.
 
I am Betting that a significant amount of things are smuggled through the mail every day. But what do I know
 
Our quarantine laws are nowhere as strict as Oz, we have borders with 6 other African countries, so people, animals, insects, seeds and drugs move in with little control. I can apply for an import permit to have a semblance of legality?
 
What's the leaf span?

Might try upping the Mg and PO4. This species can be a stubborn bloomer, but they can take a ton of light normally without going pale.
 
What's the leaf span?

Might try upping the Mg and PO4. This species can be a stubborn bloomer, but they can take a ton of light normally without going pale.

direct sunlight? because that's what it got for a couple weeks

but i will try that
 
Phosphorous deficiency, Rick? I thought the general symptom of Phosphorous deficiency is deep green leaves, not yellow, right??

Green is from chlorophyll. The inert components (N and Mg) comprise only about 1% of the chlorpyll molecule. The rest is hydrated carbon. Which I've always wondered what the symptoms of carbon deficiency are, but all we every care about is NPK. So odds of being low N under normal fertilizing regimes are poor, but:

It takes a lot of ATP ( hence P) to make chlorophyll, and separtely to convert NO3 to NH3 (this 2nd reaction chain is catalyzed by Fe and Mo, which incidentally looks like "N deficiency" when deficient). Both the above are light requireing actions. And if the pH is not in the low sweet spot (<6.0) It takes even more P to make the above work.

Root uptake of CO2 is also impaired at neutral or greater pH because you are converting more CO2 to bicarbonate (which reduces the efficiency of half of the photosynthessis process). Furthermore, P is tied up by carbonates in the potting mix (especially as pH goes up around neutral). So under high light and temp conditions with a nitrate based low P fert with buffering substate and water, you can come up short on P and slow manufacturing of green pigment (chlorophyl) down considerably.

Adding a few ppm of ammonia is primarily reducing pot alkalinity (as per that paper you sent me) and not really satisfying an N deficiency. Everyone with yellowing who have been adding ammonia are also adding P and K to comprimise what they have available.

You could probably turn the plant around by tenting it in a CO2 enriched atmosphere, but I'm seeing "greening up" after watering for a week with application of about 1ppm Mg, 7ppm PO4, 0.1ppm Fe, 0.3ppm SO4 solution that I made up (no ammonia).
 
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Adding a few ppm of ammonia is primarily reducing pot alkalinity (as per that paper you sent me) and not really satisfying an N deficiency.
It takes much longer for the pH to come down than for the plant to uptake the ammonia so if the problem is caused by a reductase problem then the greening will be due to the ammonia. It is believed that the acidification of pot media is more due to the leaching of nitrate produced from ammonium rather than a direct effect on the added ammonium ions.

Everyone with yellowing who have been adding ammonia are also adding P and K to comprimise what they have available.
Not everyone. I use ammonium sulphate or urea.
 
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It takes much longer for the pH to come down than for the plant to uptake the ammonia so if the problem is caused by a reductase problem then the greening will be due to the ammonia.

I use ammonium sulphate

You need to see that paper that Naoki has. Most of that pH decline is probably due to bacterial acidification of the potting mix. The plant takes up a tiny fraction of what goes into the pot.

Also that sulphate is doing more directly to chlorophyll production than N.

As for symptomology, N deficiency generally shows up first in old leaves. Sulfur deficiency is also a general paling of leaves, but sulfur deficiency gets the whole plant, especially in the fastest growing new leaves.
 

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