Are aircone pots worth the $

[Scott Ware]

Charles,

I'm having great success growing phals in 5" aircone pots that might never have made a happy transition from the 4" to a 6" pot.

It's a good idea to keep in mind what Hien mentioned early in the thread about the edges and corners of these pots. You probably already have observed that these large pots have sharp corners in just the right location where if a large, succulent phal leaf rests on a corner it can cause mechanical damage that can result in infection or rot. On the other hand, I have a smilar problem with circular clay pots because they are so damp for quite some time after watering at the point of contact and can also cause issues with rot.

In both cases I cushion the edges and corners where the leaves of my phals rest on the edges of the pots with an "S" shaped styrofoam packing peanut. It locks right into place and insulates the point of contact from the edge of the pot.

 

[Jim Toomey]

Hey Scott,
Any harm in using a piece of charcoal?

I have recently been using small pieces of (new) charcoal to hold up the leaves of small seedlings that has a bottom leaf that curls down and sticks into the potting mix.
Jim T

 

[Scott Ware]

Jim,

I was talking about when the leaf hangs OVER the edge of the pot and rests on the sharp edge or corner of the plastic pot. Sometimes it can develop a "wound" through vibration and air movement that gets worse and can even kill the plant if an infection results.

I think what you're asking is what to do when a leaf falls just a little short of the pot wall and doesn't make it over the edge of the pot and grows down toward the mix instead? Sure - I would try using a piece charcoal if it doesn't have a lot of sharp edges to damage the plant tissue, or bark or even a styro peanut (my mom calls 'em "angel farts" :noangel: ) - but if this is a small seedling I would also try to make sure there wasn't a lot of upward pressure on the plant that might slowly force it out of the mix. You just gotta be creative and figure out what works the best for you.

 

[NYEric]

(my mom calls 'em "angel farts" :noangel: )

Yes, but she's one of ours! :evil:

 

[Jim Toomey]

Does anyone put additional holes into their Aircone pots?

I'm thinking about adding one on each side about halfway up the pot.

Thoughts?

 

[NYEric]

Wow, someone has a lot of time on their hands! Hey Jim, did you finish those benches yet!? oke:

 

[Scott Ware]

Does anyone put additional holes into their Aircone pots?

I'm thinking about adding one on each side about halfway up the pot.

Thoughts?

I've never perforated these pots beyond their original design for slippers, but I have put holes about 3/4" from the top edge of 6" aircone pots to convert them to hanging pots.

Ok - you asked for "thoughts." I end up sacrificing a lot of pots whenever good healthy roots that I want to preserve grow through the drainage holes and I can't get 'em back through the slots without damage to the roots. This probably isn't necessary but I would still rather cut away a dollar pot from a hundred dollar plant and take a new pot out of the box. I suppose it is possible that additional drainage holes higher up might provide new places for roots to exit the pot - probably more likely in non-slipper varieties such as catts and phals.

If you don't hear back from anyone with direct experience, you might get some enjoyment out of experimenting with some of your ideas in small quantities just to see what the results might be.

Oh yeah - and build some decent benches for heaven's sake.

 

[Heather]

I used to put additional holes in my aircones. Used a 1/4" drill bit. Depending on the size of the pot, 1-3 holes per side. It probably helped with drainage a bit. Nice for hanging phal. species also.

 

[NYEric]

Oh yeah - and build some decent benches for heaven's sake.

Yes, another one corrupted! :evil:

 

[Jim Toomey]

OK, OK, Eric... and Scott,
I'll try to attach a photo of my first bench attempt... about 20' x 6'.

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww305/orchidjim/bench2.jpg
http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww305/orchidjim/bench3.jpg

Shown without light panel that covers the roofing panel.

I used the clear corrugated roofing panels under the "egg crate" lighting panels, boards, with sawhorses to hold it all up. The run off water flows off the to far end, which will eventually have a short gutter attached and running just to the ground to keep the water from splashing.
The reason I did this is so I can put my seedlings under the bench without them being dripped on.
It works well and keeps every thing dry, and it has pretty nice light there as well.

The next revision will have the boards with the narrow edge up for much better support.

I used a cheap soldering iron to put holes in about halfway up the sides on a few pots to see if it does any good. Maybe it is a waste of time, we'll see.

 

[NYEric]

Good idea w/ the clear panels to have the light go thru; also put some holes on the edge so you can put hanging plants! I don't think the extra holes will be a waste of time, it will allow more air flow as you remember from Terry Root's talk!

 

[Jim Toomey]

Thanks Eric!
Good idea about the hanging plants
Funny, I just reviewing my notes from that talk today!

 

[NYEric]

"Wise men learn from wise men!" - NYEric

 

[Jim Toomey]

Well, several months later, I have to say i am very glad I switched
over to the bark and aircone pots. The roots have taken off!
I must admit that I really get a kick at picking up the pots
and looking at the root growth.
Does anyone else like to do that?
The pots are very sturdy and the plants are really putting out the roots.
I have repotted just about everything except my oncidiums and
some of my phrags & cats that really thrive in S/H.
If you have not tried the Rand aircone pot pick up a few and see
if your plants perform better.
Mine have.