Paphman910
Well-Known Member
I totally agree!
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I totally agree!
A
ALToronto
Guest
That's why I said 'Adjust as necessary'. I use 10-15 ppm N with every watering, and the plants don't seem to be complaining. It might be too much for paphs - mine are always struggling - but the phrags like it. They're growing well, and no brown leaf tips.
In fact, I might be underfeeding the paphs, they're getting light coloured spots.
Eric and Paphman910 - what N dosage are you using?
The concentrate keeps for 3-4 months before white mold develops. If you boil the distilled water, it will keep longer. I use 'instant-hot' RO water and disinfect the glass bottle before dissolving the fertiliser.
I have no idea. I only rarely fertilize.
Happypaphy7
Paphlover
It sounds like rot. Good thing you got rid of it.
I had two phrags of the same kind. One constantly got the exact same thing you described while the other one did not.
They were both treated the same way.
Indoor humidity- no matter how low it might be, as long as you breathe fine, plants are fine, not ideal, but they will be fine as long as watering is done correctly.
With the exception of something that must have high humidity and cool temperature to stay alive like Draculas.
If you see just one or two plants having problems while the rest is fine, it's not likely that it's due to culture unless they are completely different kind of plants that need very different care.
Plants disease organisms are everywhere and some plants are just more susceptible and the only thing you can do it to toss and start new with healthy plants.
I had two phrags of the same kind. One constantly got the exact same thing you described while the other one did not.
They were both treated the same way.
Indoor humidity- no matter how low it might be, as long as you breathe fine, plants are fine, not ideal, but they will be fine as long as watering is done correctly.
With the exception of something that must have high humidity and cool temperature to stay alive like Draculas.
If you see just one or two plants having problems while the rest is fine, it's not likely that it's due to culture unless they are completely different kind of plants that need very different care.
Plants disease organisms are everywhere and some plants are just more susceptible and the only thing you can do it to toss and start new with healthy plants.
Happypaphy7
Paphlover
What did you see on your paphs?
Struggling is too vague and I'm just curious.
It'll help others if you specify the details. and what kind of paphs are they?
I am now using about 20 ppm N every watering or every other watering for a while.
I used to used quite strong dilution in the past with no ill effect at all, although I only fertilized about once a month.
Hence, I'm curious about your paphs.
Struggling is too vague and I'm just curious.
It'll help others if you specify the details. and what kind of paphs are they?
I am now using about 20 ppm N every watering or every other watering for a while.
I used to used quite strong dilution in the past with no ill effect at all, although I only fertilized about once a month.
Hence, I'm curious about your paphs.
O
orchideya
Guest
Updated pictures of my "Phrags setup".I repotted them and documented everything.
Mix - sponge rock with small fir bark:
and these river stones added:
Roots example - Eumelia Arias:
New setup - out of tank, bathroom window, south-west exposure glass with privacy screen, still very bright spot, no water in saucers:
From left to right:
Hanne Popow, Eumelia Arias, Eric Young, Friz Schoburg. I repotted caudatum too but left it in the tank since it likes it there.
Looking good?
Mix - sponge rock with small fir bark:
and these river stones added:
Roots example - Eumelia Arias:
New setup - out of tank, bathroom window, south-west exposure glass with privacy screen, still very bright spot, no water in saucers:
From left to right:
Hanne Popow, Eumelia Arias, Eric Young, Friz Schoburg. I repotted caudatum too but left it in the tank since it likes it there.
Looking good?
Yes! They indeed look under'fed' - now that they get more light they will surely grow better. Growing is done through assimilation - not primary through uptake of nutrients. Light (energy) is the first 'nutrient' - light, water and air.
Wish you good luck with your plants!
Wish you good luck with your plants!
true.
Orchideya, I usually soak clay pots in warm water for maybe 15 minutes before dropping on and have had very
few issues with roots sticking to the clay. I'm one of the
shake the root ball and pot on type growers. I try not to
disturb the roots anymore than I absolutely have to. I
use exclusively Orchiata with a bit of sphag. and Hydroton and most of the clay pots have holes around
the sides. In my very humid greenhouse conditions, I find that air exchange is far more important than just about anything else. I do have to water more often using
this growing method though. I have a LOT of mounts that I have to water, so extra watering is not a bother.
However, this time of year lugging gallon jugs of rainwater back and forth is a pain in the butt!
Oh, addressing the issue of junk in the rain barrel: I keep
the barrel covered with fine screening and a top and my
roofing is 26 gauge steel so the run off is quite clean. I
donno about shingled roofing.
few issues with roots sticking to the clay. I'm one of the
shake the root ball and pot on type growers. I try not to
disturb the roots anymore than I absolutely have to. I
use exclusively Orchiata with a bit of sphag. and Hydroton and most of the clay pots have holes around
the sides. In my very humid greenhouse conditions, I find that air exchange is far more important than just about anything else. I do have to water more often using
this growing method though. I have a LOT of mounts that I have to water, so extra watering is not a bother.
However, this time of year lugging gallon jugs of rainwater back and forth is a pain in the butt!
Oh, addressing the issue of junk in the rain barrel: I keep
the barrel covered with fine screening and a top and my
roofing is 26 gauge steel so the run off is quite clean. I
donno about shingled roofing.
O
orchideya
Guest
I looked and looked and couldn't find Orchiata for sale anywhere here in Canada. Does anybody know where?
A
ALToronto
Guest
I'll check for you at the SOOS show.
Paphman910
Well-Known Member
Can't get it here in Canada due to trade restrictions!
A
ALToronto
Guest
I just learned the same thing - it's considered a pathogen risk and cannot get brought in because it's a tree product.
A
ALToronto
Guest
Put them in lava rock - mine love it. Water every day.
O
orchideya
Guest
Ok, so no orchiata for canadian growers. That's sad.
Thanks for letting me know.
Alla, I think they are good in my mix, at least roots don't rot and grow nicely. I just thought orchiata was "better" bark.
Thanks for letting me know.
Alla, I think they are good in my mix, at least roots don't rot and grow nicely. I just thought orchiata was "better" bark.
Ok, so no orchiata for canadian growers. That's sad.
Thanks for letting me know.
Alla, I think they are good in my mix, at least roots don't rot and grow nicely. I just thought orchiata was "better" bark.
My impression is orchidata is "better" bark in that it resists breaking down. Using an inorganic media could serve the same purpose: lava rock, Leuca clay balls, turface, maybe even gravel.
Apparently Orchid Zone uses lava rock, and waters all the time. For s/h I use the leuca clay balls (and water once or twice a week).
SlipperFan
Addicted
That is weird. Apples, oranges, nuts, etc. are all tree products.
Pine bark could easily harbor insect pests that do not exist in Canada and if a pest were to be introduced it could devastate the pine forests and cause huge economic losses.
The US also has strict laws governing import of tree bark.
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