Rick
Well-Known Member
'You a gambler, Rick?
No but live for ulcers
At least the significant summer power outages normally are from big thunder storms when there is cloud cover, so the odds of a 130 degree meltdown are pretty low.
'You a gambler, Rick?
So, where is "Here"? You haven't included your location in your profile. It REALLY helps to know that. It puts things into perspective.
It gets up to 45 degrees Celsius (113 Fahrenheit for all you Americans ) in summer here in Adelaide (not now, around December to February). Most growers here just use shadecloth for cyms, zygos, dends and some paphs (insigne, spicer etc..) and they seem to survive the heat just fine... Crowd the plants together and damp down frequently. That should help them weather through the heat..
Alex is in Italy, I believe...
The other trend is to use shadecloth WELL ABOVE the greenhouses, over a meter. That's what they do in Thailand and Malaysia. If you put the shading too close to the greenhouse you still get residual heat captured by the shade cloth (maybe not aluminium, I am not experienced with that one, but black one, that's sure...), and in fact it can be warmer than without a shadecloth.
I had a 100' tall tulip poplar taken down a couple of weeks ago (was struck by lightning and was dying), and it was my "shade cloth".
Despite lots of ventilation and a Jaybird fogger, i did get some slight burning on a few plants. Fortunately, the Aluminet came in and i was able to get it installed last week.
Separation between the glazing and shadecloth is not as important with Aluminet as with others. Being aluminized Mylar, it tends to reflect the light, rather than absorbing it and turning it into heat, which is what happens with pigmented shadecloths. I noted a 10°F interior temperature drop within 30 minutes of installation.
Yes Aluminet is a whole different world from standard black shadecloth.
I've had warped/cooked PVC support pipes in my old GH when the black shade cloth was laying on top of it.
No but live for ulcers
At least the significant summer power outages normally are from big thunder storms when there is cloud cover, so the odds of a 130 degree meltdown are pretty low.
Hmmmm? Seems that the answer is "Yes", you are a gambler! Well, it's none of my business; but, unless Murphy's Law doesn't apply in Tennessee, I'd be worried sick. What about power outages in the winter when it's below freezing? FWIW, calculating that the odds of anything bad happening (were very low), was what I did the night my greenhouse froze. I had taken my back-up heater offline for repairs for just one night. I was in the middle of a maintenance / repair job when it got dark and I didn't want to have to haul lights down to the heater to finish. I figured I'd just leave the back-up heater offline that one night and finish the job the next day. That was the night that for the first time in 15 years, the thermocouple on my other heater gave up and the pilot light went out. When I went to the greenhouse the next morning, I found that it had frozen overnight. I wish you luck!
A question about fogger: is it very effective when RH is high?
I need to update my auto start generator. Mine is a dinosaur! Could you tell me more about yours, please?I worry more about the winter but do have a southern burner backup furnace with the pilot light burning as well as a generator that runs on propane and turns on as soon as we lose power for 5 seconds. I've learned from John M. and I would hope others do as well.
If the ambient temp of the input water is already high and the RH is greater than 80% then you will get minimum cooling.
But generally the fogger is fed by a cooler water source, and typically you would have ventilators sucking in relatively dry air from outside at <80% RH.
So fogging is normally pretty effective.
Minimum 29°C at wake-up this morning in my house. I've become a real fan of the man who invented the fan.
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