How to you get rid of Soil Gnats?

[tocarmar]

I have a problem with soil gnats! I have tried sprays ( House & Garden) to get rid of them but they keep coming back! I wanted to try some carniverous plants but I'm not sure what ones are good for gnats. Who has experience with them & what kinds. Also, where to get them? Any help will be greatly appreciated!!! I grow most of my plants indoors for breeding if that helps.

Thank You All,
Tom

 

[Hien]

Maybe Mosquito Dunk?
In my opinion, the yellow sticky card works very well.

 

[Bob Wellenstein]

If you are referring to fungus gnats the Bt strain in Gnatrol is effective. If you have fungus gnats in Paphs you better review your cultural practices with regards to medium and watering.

 

[Per]

Tom,
I have not dealt with gnats in my orchids, so if they are in bark mix (or similar) this will not work, but if the gnats are in more "traditional" potting mix, I have an easy solution. It worked wonders for my potted citrus.

Simply take normal sand (I use All-Purpose because I have it around) and work it into the first 2-3in, so there is a noticeable difference in the soil consistency. Then, and here is the trick, pour another 1-2in of pure sand on top of the existing soil. Do not work it in to the rest of the soil. I just filled it to the brim (since I generally leave about an inch between the soil and pot for ease of watering). I found that the larvae can only live in the first inch or two and that their food sources do not exist in pure sand. They starve to death.

After a few months, I take the sand off and it goes in the compost, but the gnat life cycle is significantly disrupted. The only downside to this approach is that it forces you to slow down your watering or you will overflow the pot, which makes an awful mess with all the sand.

I do not know if anyone else has done this because I thought of it on my own (although I am sure others must have too), but it worked for me. I hope it helps.

Best,
Per

 

[Park Bear]

I've posted this before; I use anole lizzards to keep the insects population down in my greenhouse/basement. They never leave the room because of the heat from the grow lights. They are cheap, don't make a mess and hungry.

 

[Persephone]

Ummmmmmmm....the kitties say YUMMY!

 

[gore42]

Here I have to agree with Bob Wellenstein; if you have a problem with fungus gnats (soil gnats), it means that you're probably watering too much, or your mix doesn't allow sufficient air flow to the roots of your orchids. In either case, it may be time for repotting.

I have a frog that seems to live off of nothing... it might be eating gnats from my nepenthes pot, which stays a bit soggy. Nepenthes pitcher plants are another good way to help control gnats if you have them, and you have the space. They get big pretty quickly.

- Matt

 

[goldenrose]

if you do a search on fungus gnats, you will understand their life cycle. I found bti liquid at a pond supply which is alot cheaper than the mosquito dunks which are almost nonexistant at this time of the year in the midwest.

 

[Mrs. Paph]

I want an anole...I'm still not over the fact that they run around wild here! (and geckos too! I really like lizzards) Had to buy mine from the pet store where I grew up! I still have an apartment at the moment though and can't control what pesticides get sprayed on the bugs in/around it, but perhaps I could get some when I have my own place. You say they stay right around the grow area Park Bear? ...the cockroaches do just the opposite hahahaha I've only seen one so far since moving south - the timer turned on my light shelves in the morning and he flipped over and died while running for a dark place to hide, must have been weak from poison from pest control last week.
Anyway...fungus gnats - I'd agree w/ some of the others, to Really truely get rid of them it's best to use the pot dreches, and more than once to make sure eggs don't hatch again later. I haven't needed to try it for my own stuff, but it's always done the trick at work with plants in 'regular' potting soil.

 

[Ernie]

Crappy, moist bark can come already innoculated with them. Try to get the drier stuff so you aren't fighting these creatures from the moment you repot.

-Ernie

 

[neo-guy]

for carnivorous plants i suggest Pinguicula's or butterworts. they are excellent for catching gnats. They are quite pretty too with long lasting flowers. I find the mexican species the best.
Peter

 

[DukeBoxer]

I agree with Neo-Guy, get a butterwort or 5, or just don't do anything. They really don't do anything except bother you when you see them flying around. Imagine spraying insecticide inside your house with pets and kids just to kill some little annoying bugs that aren't killing your plants. I don't think it's a good idea.

Or how about this, but I don't know if it works...Sprinkle cinnamon on top of the potting mix to get rid of the fungus.

-Josh

 

[Eric Muehlbauer]

Fungus gnats are too small for geckoes, anoles, or even frogs and toads to eat. (maybe newly metamorphosed toads and treefrogs). While Drosera's and Nepenthes will get quite a few (in addition to Pinguicula) Gnatrol- the Bt for fungus gnats, does work...but you have to apply it consistently for at least 3 weeks, and make sure there are no antibacterial additives like Physan in your water. Take care, Eric

 

[e-spice]

The best luck I have had is adding some Physan to the water. Generally if you have gnats there is something slightly off with your culture. Ideally you don't want to have any decomposing material for them to eat. Also, a bug light (with the thinner mesh around the light) will work to reduce the population to some degree.

Being an indoor grower - they used to be a huge nuisance. They would always find a way to fly in a drink or buzz around in front of my computer screen.

e-spice