Learning more about brachys

[Tom-DE]

For sure reading the threads here helps me to fine-tune my culture on Brachys accordingly...
I think I might have most of the common/legally available species(U.S.) and some varieties among the sp... but I need to add Paph. bellatullum to my collection.

 

[Djthomp28]

@Tom-DE I have not put the high phosphorus into action year. So we might be learning that one together.

 

[CharlesD]

For sure reading the threads here helps me to fine-tune my culture on Brachys accordingly...
I think I might have most of the common/legally available species(U.S.) and some varieties among the sp... but I need to add Paph. bellatullum to my collection.

I have a very vigorous compot of bellatulum from paph paradise but probably another year before I pot them out. Large bellatulum plants have been hard to find I’ve gotten flasks from three different sources for mine

 

[Walter Meshaka]

I have a very vigorous compot of bellatulum from paph paradise but probably another year before I pot them out. Large bellatulum plants have been hard to find I’ve gotten flasks from three different sources for mine

Any idea on time to BS once out of flask?

 

[CharlesD]

Any idea on time to BS once out of flask?

The batch I have is growing quite fast. Deflasked last fall - I'm betting 2 more years for a front runner

 

[Walter Meshaka]

The batch I have is growing quite fast. Deflasked last fall - I'm betting 2 more years for a front runnerView attachment 52684

Close race. Vigorous.

 

[Stone]

• high phosphorus (every 3-4 months using a 10-52-10 or 9-45-15)

I have read Xavier from @SelectOrchids recommending this a few times. I would like to know exactly what it does (apart from severely restricting Fe) and how it does it. I am willing to acknowledge that it boosts root growth (and use it) if someone has the empirical evidence.

 

[CharlesD]

I have read Xavier from @SelectOrchids recommending this a few times. I would like to know exactly what it does (apart from severely restricting Fe) and how it does it. I am willing to acknowledge that it boosts root growth (and use it) if someone has the empirical evidence.

Me as well. Would be interested to know more. Aside from helping encourage rooting He also talks about how parvis generally speaking like this type of fertilizer year round

 

[Stone]

Any idea on time to BS once out of flask?

I got myanmaricum and bellatulum to bloom about 4 years out of flask. It's really important to compot them like Charles has done and leave them there until close to bursting point. They are much more vigorous that way rather than potting individually.

 

[BrucherT]

From Alan Koch's slide at the Paph Forum (my additions in parenthesis):

Brachypedilum Section

Most found growing at sea level (can take 50 F if dry)
Found growing on limestone or roots in limestone
Loves to be repotted
Keep them closer to the ground in your growing area (cooler area in summer)

During the talk, Alan mentioned CalMag and chicken grit (oyster shells) as sources of

Great synopsis and matches my experience except mine for sure experienced winter nights down to 40F where they sat for many years. The new place doesn’t really go below 60F. They love calcium. Love it.

 

[BrucherT]

I’ve learned most of my brachy culture from this forum and I’ve been really pleased with my success. Here’s what I can add:

- I use my normal moderate grade mix (2 parts power orchiata, 1 part classic, 1 part medium charcoal, 1 part #4 perlite) with extra #4 perlite added. Then I top dress with a good amount of sand.
- Fertilize like my other paphs but cal mag are supplied as well as extra micros with higher Mn and Zn. Lime the mix periodically as it gets older and more acidic. I think they resent when the mix gets overly acidic.
- I tend to water similarly to my other paphs, never drying out. I find they like to stay moist but in a courser mix
- grown next to the radiator in my grow room and never below 60F outside in summer
- higher light. I grow alongside multiflorals (the shorter leaves mean they aren’t as close to my grow lights as the long leaved multis)
- dont mind being repotted as long as you are careful with the roots. They are so thick and the attachment to the plant can be quite thin compared to the rest of the root so they are very easy to break.
- I think keeping them warm and not letting them dry out excessively helps prevent rot

@Djthomp28 you reminded me that Jeff morris said in his talk at the Paph forum that he does a similar thing with all of his slippers - high phosphate fertilizer once in spring and fall

Honestly I think brachys are great to grow in the home. I think professional growers struggle with them because it’s tough to meet these requirements in a mixed collection in a greenhouse. Especially up north.

“Great to grow in the home” YES! This! Their thicker leaves means they handle lower humidity better. I grow mine in windows among lots of other orchids with no supplemental light but I know I’m doing it right when the African violets growing among them are blooming regularly.

 

[Tom-DE]

Great synopsis and matches my experience except mine for sure experienced winter nights down to 40F where they sat for many years. The new place doesn’t really go below 60F. They love calcium. Love it.

What are they? I am pretty sure bellatulum, concolor (perhaps including the var. longipetalum/josianae and var. striatum) can handle cooler winter months (cooler and drier rest), what else?
I am running out of warm sunny window space in winter...if anything else(Brachypetalum species) doesn't mind daytime-high in the low 60s(around 60-62F for a couple of months now this winter) and nighttime-low in the mid 50s for 3-4 months, I would like to know...
If anyone has natural habitat info on winter temperature(high and low) for Brachy. sp., please share. Thanks.

 

[Djthomp28]

Bellatulum experiences dry winters from November to March or April. Winter daytime temperatures average 74–80°F, while nighttime temperatures drop to 46–47°F. However, here’s the catch—in my opinion, moisture remains abundant due to heavy dew and mist. So, "dry" is not completely dry. Winter also brings more sunny days than summer.

If bellatulum grows on rocks, the sun could potentially heat the rocks, keeping the roots warmer than temperature charts indicate. Additionally, temperature data from weather stations do not necessarily reflect the exact conditions the plants experience. Based on this, I provide an intermediate, drier winter rest for my bellatulum, and it blooms annually.

Concolor's habitat data is similar to bellatulum’s, but it experiences more clear winter days and slightly warmer temperatures at night and during the day. I treat my concolor the same as my bellatulum, and it also blooms annually.

My bellatulum, concolor, and wenshanense experience temperatures around 50–60°F. If I had different varieties of concolor, I would treat them the same way.

Other Brachypetalum species, such as niveum, leucochilum, and thaianum, seem to appreciate warmth throughout the winter. I would be open to experimenting with lowering leucochilum’s temperature below 60°F, provided it remains on the dry side. However, I wouldn’t risk this with niveum or thaianum.

 

[Tom-DE]

Thank you, Darlene. Sound advice based on your experience....