Paph superbians 'Midnight'

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emydura

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Currently flowering for me. I would have flowered this 3 or 4 times now, but as you can see from the 2nd photo, it is still just a single growth plant and a weak one at that. Like many of the mottled leaf species, I can't get any multiple growths going. It is a pity as it is a nice dark clone. If history is a guide, there will be another flower on a single growth plant in 3 years time.

David

Paph superbians 'Midnight'

superbians20094.jpg



Paphsuperbians2009.jpg
 
Nice one David. Have you tried any of the tricks Rick from Tenn has talked about? Mg? bonemeal?

I apply Epsolm salts (MgSO4) regularly. Can'y say I have tried bonemeal. I'll look into that one. Sam Tsui suggested spraying superthrive which I have been doing. Can't say I have seen any improvement but maybe I need to give it more time.

David
 
That is indeed superb!

Is this one of the Paphs that need a dry-ish rest in the Winter?

I don't think so Dot. I don't tend to give mine a dry rest. If you can keep it alive, it is a pretty easy species to flower. Mine flowers reliably around the end of spring/early summer after the growth has matured.

David
 
It's gorgeous! According to Antec's culture information page; specifically the one that discusses the calcicolous species, superbiens is not one.

superbiens ....... Species name
no .............. Not calcicolous
"humus epiphyte" .............Substrate habit
Steep podsolised ridges .............Habitat comments

Therefore, I'd be very careful about adding any extra calcium. Perhaps instead, it would be better to add in some Oak or Beech tree mulch???? Plus, it may need the potting mix opened up a bit more with some shreaded styrofoam or sponge rock to allow more air at the roots. From the terms "Humus epiphyte" and "Steep....ridges" it seems that in nature this species grows in well drained areas with it's roots just barely under the surface of the leaf litter, without going deeply enough to penetrate any dense, airless pockets of soil or limestone rubble.
 
Lovely flower pictured in lovely photos.
Paph superbiens can be tricky that's my own experience. Therefore I would cut off the flower to prevent the single growth plant to weaken too much.

Best regards from Germany, rudolf
 
It's gorgeous! According to Antec's culture information page; specifically the one that discusses the calcicolous species, superbiens is not one.

superbiens ....... Species name
no .............. Not calcicolous
"humus epiphyte" .............Substrate habit
Steep podsolised ridges .............Habitat comments

Therefore, I'd be very careful about adding any extra calcium. Perhaps instead, it would be better to add in some Oak or Beech tree mulch???? Plus, it may need the potting mix opened up a bit more with some shreaded styrofoam or sponge rock to allow more air at the roots. From the terms "Humus epiphyte" and "Steep....ridges" it seems that in nature this species grows in well drained areas with it's roots just barely under the surface of the leaf litter, without going deeply enough to penetrate any dense, airless pockets of soil or limestone rubble.

I've been supplementing quite a few of my paphs with bone meal for the last couple of years now regardless of whether they were calciolous or not. My ciliolare that bloomed this past spring is adding two new growths now. I have a second one that hasn't bloomed yet, and its just been adding roots with no new divisions yet.

Unless you are repotting frequently (maybe 2X a year) the addition of a bit of lime/oyster shell/ or bone meal is more helpfull for pH balance rather than a source of calcium. Bone meal is also a good slow release source of phosphate. Without buffers the breakdown of a potting mix heavy in organic materials tends to get too acidic in a hurry, which can make even basic nutrients like nitrogen and phosphorus unavailable to most plants.

It's a compromise to growing these plants in closed pot conditions rather than open forest duff that constantly is being renewed by multiple natural processes. I tried "more natural" mulchy or peaty components with barbata types with less success, and am going back to things that help support a longer balance at higher pH( 6-7 s.u.), without frequent repotting. Increasing the ratio of inert materials is a good idea too.
 
...I would cut off the flower to prevent the single growth plant to weaken too much....


but...but...but...
that means i'd have to wait longer for blooms....
chances are it'll make a multigrowth plant though, eh?
 
A suggestion

I agree with GuRu. Maybe you should enjoy the flower but not for too long. Flowering is often tough on orchids and it's a good idea to cut off the flower and let the plant recuperate for the next flowering. You've tried just about everything, maybe you should try this. I've had many orchids flower to death. Den. unicum is one. My third plant is growing much better now because I cut off the flowers after only three weeks.
That said, your paph is very beautiful. ;)
 
oh... i get it now. you're not saying to cut if off before it develops, but to let it flower, then take off the inflorescence....or am i confused?
 
oh... i get it now. you're not saying to cut if off before it develops, but to let it flower, then take off the inflorescence....or am i confused?
Did you use adequate protection when using those chemicals? :poke:
No you're not confused. I forgot what I snipped off for that very reason, I was surprised how long the bloom lasted in water!
 
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