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SlipperKing

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One I had in the show. An old hybrid not often seen.


I tried one of the tricks Dot suggested between this picture and the next. Can you tell what I did?


 
OK, this is parishii X philippinense. My friend Jay gave me these two "eyelash" seedling back in 99'. The first two PICs are done in sunlight without shading. The third I held a square of cardboard above the flowers to cut out the sharp shadows case by the sun.
On this work monitor the third looks almost too dim then my monitor at home. I guess I should of adjusted my exposure to counter the shading?
 
I think the sunlight was not too harsh in the first two, that the third although it does not have the highlights (not unpleasant mind you), it does not look like a vast improvement. A change in exposure may have washed the colour? Dot, how say you?
 
OK, this is parishii X philippinense. My friend Jay gave me these two "eyelash" seedling back in 99'. The first two PICs are done in sunlight without shading. The third I held a square of cardboard above the flowers to cut out the sharp shadows case by the sun.
On this work monitor the third looks almost too dim then my monitor at home. I guess I should of adjusted my exposure to counter the shading?

That's what I would suggest. You might also try stretching a piece of cheesecloth, or some other white translucent material, on a frame and use that. It would cut down on the glare but not put the flower in shadow. You'd probably still need to increase exposure by about a half-stop.

That's a really nice flower -- best of both parents.
 
I will try that next time Dot. One of the problems that repeatedly occurs, the black cloth always appears gray in dim light or almost sliver in bright sunlight. I try to adjust the picture with the computer to bring it back to black/blackish which cuts the brightness down.
 
From what I understand is that the camera default is for 'neutral grey'. So it adjusts the black to grey and also the whole picture exposure. Don't know if that is true, or if I have just misunderstood? (You can't expect too much from a carpenter) I have found that if you hold a white card behind the flower, half depress the shutter, hold, remove the card and then take the picture, the background comes out black(ish).
 
I'll have to try that. I'm not sure if my camera is capable of a half depressed shutter. I'll do a test to find out.
 
From what I understand is that the camera default is for 'neutral grey'. So it adjusts the black to grey and also the whole picture exposure. Don't know if that is true, or if I have just misunderstood? (You can't expect too much from a carpenter) I have found that if you hold a white card behind the flower, half depress the shutter, hold, remove the card and then take the picture, the background comes out black(ish).
It is true -- meters are designed to see everything as a middle gray. That's why professional photographers use a gray card to help them set the exposure (better than a white card, even). But if you want to really get technical, you also have to fine-tune your meter's perception of middle gray. But that was back before Photoshop! :D
 
Whew, that was a close call! Anything involving more than a block of wood and a hammer is getting a touch technical for me. That is why I find using a white card (now I know a grey card would be more correct, but sorry the back of my desk blotter is white(ish)) to be easier than adjusting exposures using a histogram. Although the canon G9 and G12 have a histogram on the manual setting to assist with exposures (great for mountain climbing trips where the pictures become very contrasty above 5000m
 
That's all fine and dandy but does it all mean? I have, I think a histogram on the camera that looks like a bar chart. I'm not sure if its on an exposures setting or not but if it is, then where in this chart should my highest peak be??
 
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