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Yes, new devices, freshly calibrated with buffers, autamaticly calibrate if merged into buffer.What means by calibrated? freshly calibrated with pH buffer?weekly/monthly?
Self read from pH buffer which probe give you closer value?
5.92 vs 6.23 indeed do not differ much if in mininal buffering system
fertilizer often get some precipitate/ sticky organics that stick to probe head drifting reading, some battery-powered one even get the reading drift when the battery voltage drops ..........&avoid playing with something too alkaline, it ruin the probe quite fast
The drainage water has only 90 µS (with 30µS of my RO water). Unfortunately the pH value cannot be determined reliably with standard pH electrodes when using RO water.The tried and true "pour-through" test is pretty reliable:
- Water the plant thoroughly, drenching the potting medium with the solution of your choice.
- Wait 60 minutes for the pot to fully drain and for the “pot chemistry” to come to equilibrium.
- Trickle enough pure water (distilled is best) evenly over the surface of the medium to collect about 50 ml (a shot glass) of the drainage.
- Test the pH of the collected liquid. That is representative of what the plant experiences.
You will get an instantaneous value for the pH which will serve its purpose. It will not mean anything if you measure over time though because the pH will drift. The lower concentration of salts, the faster the drift of pH.The drainage water has only 90 µS (with 30µS of my RO water). Unfortunately the pH value cannot be determined reliably with standard pH electrodes when using RO water.
From everything I've read about pH electrodes the problem is as follows:You will get an instantaneous value for the pH which will serve its purpose. It will not mean anything if you measure over time though because the pH will drift. The lower concentration of salts, the faster the drift of pH.
You must be using a very low concentration of fertilizer. With a fertilizer solution that is approximately 100 ppm N and an EC that is in the 600-700 µS range, I get a pour-through EC of about 200 using RO water with an EC of 5. With a 200 µS solution I think the pH will be valid.The drainage water has only 90 µS (with 30µS of my RO water). Unfortunately the pH value cannot be determined reliably with standard pH electrodes when using RO water.
I think I know where the mistake is: I only used RO water when watering. I should have followed Ray's advice to the letter (using a fertilizer when drenching the pot).You must be using a very low concentration of fertilizer. With a fertilizer solution that is approximately 100 ppm N and an EC that is in the 600-700 µS range, I get a pour-through EC of about 200 using RO water with an EC of 5. With a 200 µS solution I think the pH will be valid.
I think what you did still shows that you are not accumulating salts in your potting media.I think I know where the mistake is: I only used RO water when watering. I should have followed Ray's advice to the letter (using a fertilizer when drenching the pot).
I usually use around 500-600 µS. For a day in between I just flush with RO.
I take out the pots and use a sprayer over a bowl to spray about 500ml onto the substrate per pot. I never thought about it but this way each plant only receives half of the fertilizer...What does watering mean for you? Is it a large volume of solution or only a modest amount? You are adding it to the pots in place in the moss, so I am thinking the amount isn’t very large?
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