Reverse osmosis system recommendations

[My Green Pets]

I just moved.

My previous home's tap water measured 85 ppm tds, fine for the orchids, rarely even saw any white residue.

New home's tap water measures nearly 400 !!! So i see an RO system as my only option. It rarely rains here, so collecting rainwater/snow wouldn't yield much.

Any suggestions? I'm overwhelmed by internet search results. I only need a few gallons per day at most. And I want very low ppms, like 0 if possible. It seems like a lot of the specs and reviews focus on clean, delicious drinking water, but obviously that is not my concern. I want low-to-no ppms.

 

[Linus_Cello]

Collect de-humidifier water? Buy ro/di from a fish/aquarium store?

 

[Ray]

Zero is impossible with RO - 97-98% reduction is normal - but it's also totally unnecessary.

I built and sold RO systems for 25 years, and would be happy to discuss options if you want to give me a call.

Send me a PM and we'll connect.

 

[mrhappyrotter]

This is probably overkill for your needs, but I use this Hydro-Logic Ro system (https://joshsfrogs.com/sp/hydro-logic-stealth-ro-150-system-with-kdf-carbon-filter-hl36012). I chose it because I can easily hook it up outside to a hose and run it all day to fill my jugs for the week. I don't think it's going to get you 0 PPM water, but my results were always very low when I tested.

Only downsides so far: It's a bit expensive and the company (Hydro-Logic) didn't stand by their product when I needed them to, so that kind of sucks. If you do decide to buy it, don't get it from Amazon. If anything goes wrong, as I found out, Hydro-Logic won't help and Amazon will drag it out for months.

If you only need a few gallons a day, you can buy 4 or 5 gallon food-safe plastic gallon water jugs and refill those at places like pet shops and even Walmart (at least in my area). It will cost more in the long run, but it would get you by in the short term and you'll be able to use the jugs even if you do eventually get an RO filter.

Good luck!

 

[BrucherT]

Following because I can no longer m use mine I’ve been enjoying for several years. Hoping there’s a countertop version recommended.

 

[Pride_Tropicals]

I have the 100 GPD RO Buddy and it seems to be working fine. It was like $100 on amazon and hooks up to your sink. My only complaint is it isn't very efficient due to the lack of water pressure at the tap, but they also have a pressure booster available for it. It works fine for now, but my water bills have gone up noticeably. I use it to fill humidifiers as needed and make ~10 gallons of fertilizer solution per week.

 

[Tom-DE]

For Paphs and Phrag, how high of the TDS in your water does it have to be before you need to install a RO system? I think anything below 120 ppm is fine for most orchids, perhaps even 150ppm? I would like to hear your opinions on this..., and obviously, William's current water has very high tds, I don't want to highjack the topic, so please also continue that too.

 

[Ray]

Following because I can no longer m use mine I’ve been enjoying for several years. Hoping there’s a countertop version recommended.

I used to sell a counter-top system, but the RO Buddie is a good option that copied my design.

Before you go investing in another system, what's wrong with the one you "can no longer use"?

For Paphs and Phrag, how high of the TDS in your water does it have to be before you need to install a RO system? I think anything below 120 ppm is fine for most orchids, perhaps even 150ppm? I would like to hear your opinions on this..., and obviously, William's current water has very high tds, I don't want to highjack the topic, so please also continue that too.

My water is about 100 ppm out of the town's wells, then they throw in some 50 ppm Ca to "sweeten" the taste. No issues with my plants.

@My Green Pets - whatever you do, get a system that uses standard filters and membranes. The last thing you want to do is get saddled with a proprietary supply with jacked-up prices.

A few things to keep in mind:

Unless you go really big and pricey, RO systems are not on-demand water supplies. "100 gpd" sounds like a lot, but that's only about a cup a minute, and that would make watering awfully tedious. The key is storage - set the system up to fill a tank of the required supply, and let it go.

I recommend that you estimate the gallons used per watering and number of waterings per week, then rough calculate a per-day usage. Storage should be at least two days worth.

 

[My Green Pets]

The RO Buddie linked here sure does look exactly what i need.

I need some plumbing advice - i was thinking of disconnecting the cold water hose from my washing machine, screwing on a hose faucet splitter, then reattaching the washer hose to one side, and using the other side for the RO system. That way I could have it in my basement which is also next to a floor drain in case anything gets leaky.

 

[gonewild]

That is logical.
You will need a tank to hold the filtered water and a shut off valve for when the tank is full.

 

[Morja]

I was using dehumidifier water when living in our RV. Maybe not as exact as an RO system and tends to collect a bit of dust, but since we had to run one anyway to prevent mold, it worked for me. This is not necessarily a real recommendation, but it was probably a cheap option at least if anyone is looking for one.

What I really came here to say, though, is that.... you mentioning snow is the first time I've considered it. We just moved to a place with yuck city water and I've literally just been buying gallon jugs of RO water at the grocery store while we made the transition. Meanwhile there is literally feet of fresh snow outside. More is falling right now. My view of the street is blocked by a giant snow mountain. I feel really, really silly, and also excited for free snow water (I will avoid the road salt stuff in the snow mountain). So, thanks for that! Hahaha.
A neighboring porch (house is currently empty), which I am currently questioning the strength of, as an example.
(Yeah... feeling really silly )
View attachment 1000037994.jpg

 

[PeteM]

Congrats! I need to catch up on your channel sheesh.

Just wanted to add my thoughts. I purchased my system from Ray back when he sold them, and he was a fantastic sounding board. Helped me troubleshoot the install.

I went with a USR04-60-yQ6-38-USA, 60gpd, setup with a 35g trash can reservoir and installed a small float valve to regulate refilling. This is enough to water my entire collection in one go if I need to.

To pump the water out of the reservoir I use a Seaflo pump on a switch that I flick on to prime the hose that’s attached to it.

I would also highly recommend installing a larger whole house filter at the start of your incoming waterline line. See if you can knock down the tds and pull out all the larger sediment. In general it helps keep all your plumbing cleaner, toilets and dish washer parts will benefit from this. I got one installed when I was putting in my RO. It allows me to skip the sediment filter stage on the RO system, and add two additional carbon filters before the filtered water enters the RO stage. This maybe more than you need atm. Eager to see your new setup, good luck with the engineering. It’s always fun to tinker around.

 

[gonewild]

would also highly recommend installing a larger whole house filter at the start of your incoming waterline line. See if you can knock down the tds and pull out all the larger sediment. In general it helps keep all

Without getting off topic does a "whole house filter" reduce tds?

 

[gonewild]

Looking at the RO bundle you linked I don't see a pressure valve set (I forget what it's called) that will close the discharge water flow when the filtered water tank is full.
Maybe Ray can comment.

 

[My Green Pets]

I am too inexperienced and sloppy-handed to try anything more complicated than this:

1. Unscrew washer hose from faucet.
2. Screw on the splitter
3. Reattach the washing machine hose to the right side, attach RO adapter to left side
4. Assemble the RO buddie system
5. Stick the waste water tube down the same pipe the washer drains into.
6. Stick the RO water tube into a bucket or big tupperware thingy.

If I need RO water, I just open the valve to the RO side and shut it off again once the bucket is full. I'll leave the washer side valve open, because the water won't flow into the washer until it is turned on and running...right?

Problem number 1 is how to unscrew the washer hose from the faucet as it is on there tight and there are mineral deposits all over it. I'm afraid if I go buy a wrench and try to twist it off, I will break the pipes, or faucet, or both, and water will spray uncontrollably all over the place and I won't know how to stop it.
I am also afraid that if I turn the little blue wheel that shuts the water off to the washer, that it will start leaking out of the base of the wheel as soon as I turn it. I've had this happen before at a different place.
I worry in general that if I touch anything, leaks will just spring up everywhere. Again, no idea what to do if that happens.

The more things I can imagine going wrong, the more it sounds like I need to call a professional to do this, because I can already smell a huge, expensive disaster if I try to do it.

 

[Ray]

Looking at the RO bundle you linked I don't see a pressure valve set (I forget what it's called) that will close the discharge water flow when the filtered water tank is full.
Maybe Ray can comment.

Lance, it’s call a “hydraulic-“ or “pressure cutoff”. It’s there, just isn’t visible in that image.

The water exiting the sediment and carbon prefilters passes through it before entering the membrane. Purified water passes through it on the other side, on the way to the storage vessel. When the back-pressure in the pure water line reached 2/3 of the incoming “raw water” pressure, it stops flow of the incoming water, stopping all flow.

Without it, once the pure water tank was full, the flush water would keep flowing.

I am too inexperienced and sloppy-handed to try anything more complicated than this:

1. Unscrew washer hose from faucet.
2. Screw on the splitter
3. Reattach the washing machine hose to the right side, attach RO adapter to left side
4. Assemble the RO buddie system
5. Stick the waste water tube down the same pipe the washer drains into.
6. Stick the RO water tube into a bucket or big tupperware thingy.

If I need RO water, I just open the valve to the RO side and shut it off again once the bucket is full. I'll leave the washer side valve open, because the water won't flow into the washer until it is turned on and running...right?

Correct.

Just how many plants are you watering?

Problem number 1 is how to unscrew the washer hose from the faucet as it is on there tight and there are mineral deposits all over it. I'm afraid if I go buy a wrench and try to twist it off, I will break the pipes, or faucet, or both, and water will spray uncontrollably all over the place and I won't know how to stop it
I am also afraid that if I turn the little blue wheel that shuts the water off to the washer, that it will start leaking out of the base of the wheel as soon as I turn it. I've had this happen before at a different place.
I worry in general that if I touch anything, leaks will just spring up everywhere. Again, no idea what to do if that happens.

The more things I can imagine going wrong, the more it sounds like I need to call a professional to do this, because I can already smell a huge, expensive disaster if I try to do it.

Go to a hardware store and explain to someone that you need to loosen a stuck hose connection. Personally, I’d use the highly technical term “crudded up with mineral deposits”. You’ll come home with a spray can of a loosener/lubricant like WD-40 or the like. Spray some on the hose connection where the two metal pieces meet and on the valve stem just under the (“blue wheel”) knob. Go do something else for 30 minutes. At that point, the valve should move freely and close, and you can use a pipe wrench to unscrew the hose.

If that is too scary (I fully understand, seriously), there are alternatives, as the RO unit can be connected to any cold water source with the right adapter, and it need not be left there.

For example, if you have room to store the RO Buddie under a sink, you can simply install an “angle stop adapter” in between the shutoff valve and the line that supplies water to the faucet. When you need more RO, lift the unit out onto the counter, open the valve and collect the water, then close the valve and put it away.

Another alternative is a saddle valve, which clamps onto a pipe anywhere convenient.

 

[tomp]

William
The first thing to might want to do is locate the valve the shuts off water to your house.
If you can’t find it the city/county folks will show you. This step is a good idea no matter what you do.

Your hook up ideas sound fine if you can get the fittings apart. If you are really worried about breaking the fittings/valves get help and replace said fittings they need to be “operable” now matter what you do.

Ray really knows what he is doing.

400 PPM while not ideal will not kill your catts. Have the city give you a water “report “
Share it with Ray and adjust your ferterlizer program accordingly.

As a last resort.
You could also consider getting a counter top water distiller. They can make two gallons a day which you can store in glass jugs for any really fussy plants.

Bottom line it sounds like like spending $200 on a handyman plumber might be well worthwhile.
Tom