Maybe grow in a wine refrigerator?
The right care for Phragmipedium kovachii?
- Thread starter Theodoreorchidking
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If you had already tried growing plants in unglazed clay pots sitting in water, then it (zeer pot) might not work any better. But others with more experience using these methods might knowThat's a very interesting idea, and far less work than changing ice packs every day
I would like to see pics if your ice pack method.
It's super simple. Same basic principle as the double-pot method. My substrate is pumice and lecca because they wick well - but not too well - and seem to stay cool. The plants are in Rand's air cone pots sitting in 1' or so of water inside a medium sized glass mixing bowl (so I can monitor water level). Under that bowl I've placed a larger sized glass mixing bowl, which leaves enough room for a couple of ice packs between them. I plop the ice packs in the larger bowl twice a day and just place the smaller glass bowl containing the plant and the reservoir on top of it. That seems to cool both the reservoir and medium down nicely. The only problem with this setup is that the smaller bowl sometimes slides around on the ice packs (I'm using the ones with gelatin in them that you get with refrigerated grocery/medical deliveries. They are great! - but slippery). I'll try to remember to send a pic as well when I get home.
An idea i’d had to try and hydroponically grow wasabi in my apartment used a styrofoam container box, a plastic tub set into top cutout so dangling into box top, and aquarium pump to move water into the top tub where plants were. A drain cut at certain level would allow water to drain back into bottom. Logistical issues prevented success, but an additional thought I’d had was to put ice or ice packs into the bottom every so often to keep the water cool during higher temps. If you had a water chiller that could be placed in the water reservoir area then this could also supply cooler water
The usual ‘if I only had more time space money’ I’m sure I could work out bugs . It’s an idea…
The usual ‘if I only had more time space money’ I’m sure I could work out bugs
. It’s an idea…
well if you don’t hang around aquarium sites and related then you might not even know about water chillers. … or they could be really expen$ive
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I really refer everyone back to a great article that is available on line regarding kovachii culture.
To me the species requires temperatures no higher then 80 degrees, ph slightly basic, 7.5-7.9, and crushed limestone.
I myself have been tinkering with Phrags under lights. I removed all of my kovachii hybrids from sphagnum moss. Moss is likely a BIG no no. I am using 50% seedling bark, 25% charcoal and 25% perlite. I was able to locate crushed oyster shell and I am fertilizing with cal-mag in addition to Jack’s 20-20-20. So far, they have perked up a bit out of the moss!!!
With bark, moisture and fertilizer, it is going to break down and acidify. Repotting every year should help.
I think that kovachii hybrids may be a little more forgiving then the species but since I have not located a reasonably priced kovachii, I do not have experience growing it.
And I also want to add that P. caudatum grows differently from besseae and P. pierceii grows differently still and then kovachii grows differently still! It is a challenging group to grow apparently and growing methods are as variable as the people growing them.
To me the species requires temperatures no higher then 80 degrees, ph slightly basic, 7.5-7.9, and crushed limestone.
I myself have been tinkering with Phrags under lights. I removed all of my kovachii hybrids from sphagnum moss. Moss is likely a BIG no no. I am using 50% seedling bark, 25% charcoal and 25% perlite. I was able to locate crushed oyster shell and I am fertilizing with cal-mag in addition to Jack’s 20-20-20. So far, they have perked up a bit out of the moss!!!
With bark, moisture and fertilizer, it is going to break down and acidify. Repotting every year should help.
I think that kovachii hybrids may be a little more forgiving then the species but since I have not located a reasonably priced kovachii, I do not have experience growing it.
And I also want to add that P. caudatum grows differently from besseae and P. pierceii grows differently still and then kovachii grows differently still! It is a challenging group to grow apparently and growing methods are as variable as the people growing them.
Thank you! I’m going to try this and your photo would also be helpful! You’re giving me my Phragmipedium besseae dreams back… I’ve bloomed a beautiful besseae flavum only to watch it melt away.
I grew and bloomed a stunning P. besseae flavum from Tom Kalina. Long story but I melted it twice and the second time, after blooming two flowers, it did not survive. Crushed have I been. I’ve also murdered a red besseae and another yellow seedling. I have a d’allessandroi that seems to be unkillable. I have a kovachii that’s been growing steadily for 2 years and appears near to blooming but I live in fear that it will one day melt down.
I hope it thrives for you! I really know very little about growing phrags. I am primarily a (newbie) paph guy. On a whim I purchased P. andreettae a while back and she seems to be doing just fine after nearly a year, so I bought a manzurii. I've only had her for a month or so, and it's too early to tell how she'll do long-term. I'm growing both in semi-hydro (unchilled) in a room that regularly reaches 85f - and so far so good. So I'm crossing my fingers for kovachii.
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That was the biggest mistake I made in my life in 2009! I moved to SW Florida with 100 orchids and photography equipment. Within a years time, all 100 plants, mostly Cattleya Alliance were either dead or declining.
Some parts of Florida are warmer then others but I do not believe there is a cool part of Florida.
Relentless intense sun almost directly over head. Temperatures 88-94 for months on end. High humidity. I eventually switched over to 95% warm growing orchids. Vandaceous, Catasetinae and alike and enjoyed great success but it was a constant battle with the heat. I had 90 degrees on many a December day.
I would urge you to invest in shade cloth, 60-70% if you are going to grow outside. Oh, a buy some large fans.
Since there is not a great amount of pollution in Florida air, full sun overhead at 85 degrees above the horizon is extremely intense.
Some parts of Florida are warmer then others but I do not believe there is a cool part of Florida.
Relentless intense sun almost directly over head. Temperatures 88-94 for months on end. High humidity. I eventually switched over to 95% warm growing orchids. Vandaceous, Catasetinae and alike and enjoyed great success but it was a constant battle with the heat. I had 90 degrees on many a December day.
I would urge you to invest in shade cloth, 60-70% if you are going to grow outside. Oh, a buy some large fans.
Since there is not a great amount of pollution in Florida air, full sun overhead at 85 degrees above the horizon is extremely intense.
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Pk needs cool, moist weather. Something I'm only able to provide in NYC in the winter. Good luck.
Happypaphy7
Paphlover
For the original poster of the thread, if you haven't yet, PeteM has shared quite a bit of info already in the Phragmipedium section.
Go have a look.
Go have a look.
caffeine93
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Mine is growing really well (ordered from Ecuagenera Europe a year or so ago) as a multi-growth "mid-size" plant, It has now nicely clumped and keeps sending new shoots, although it has yet to flower.
I grow it in a custom temperature-range environment, daylight temperatures are kept in 21.0-23.5*C range, nighttime temps drop to 16.5-18.5*C. Humidity is kept always >85%, during the night it basically stays at 99% constantly. A strong fan keeps running 24/7 to prevent stale air and fungal disease at such high humidity.
Potting mix is completely inorganic, 1/3 pumice, 1/3 hydroton pebbles, 1/3 rockwool. Plant is never kept standing in water (none of my Phrags are), since the humidity is so high, evaporation is relatively slow and I don't have to water daily. The pot is transparent and roots can be seen growing like crazy.
I water it using tap water only, in my town this water is particularly hard, the plant doesn't seem to mind it. I do make sure to let it run through the pot for some minute or so each time I water though to flush the mineral buildup as much as possible.
I grow it in a custom temperature-range environment, daylight temperatures are kept in 21.0-23.5*C range, nighttime temps drop to 16.5-18.5*C. Humidity is kept always >85%, during the night it basically stays at 99% constantly. A strong fan keeps running 24/7 to prevent stale air and fungal disease at such high humidity.
Potting mix is completely inorganic, 1/3 pumice, 1/3 hydroton pebbles, 1/3 rockwool. Plant is never kept standing in water (none of my Phrags are), since the humidity is so high, evaporation is relatively slow and I don't have to water daily. The pot is transparent and roots can be seen growing like crazy.
I water it using tap water only, in my town this water is particularly hard, the plant doesn't seem to mind it. I do make sure to let it run through the pot for some minute or so each time I water though to flush the mineral buildup as much as possible.
