M
Mahon
Guest
This post is to discover what media is more effective for which Paphiopedilums. I can only provide my research and its conclusions of my Paphiopedilum plants and their media, but as for anyone elses plants and media, I can not account for. This is to give a basic understanding upon relationships and the effectiveness of what Paphiopedilum media is made up of. I provide information on some of the components to make some of the media, but effectiveness is not gauranteed. Different factors effect the results of the effectiveness of the media. A single medium that is used by a "windowsill grower" will not have the same results as a "greenhouse grower", as conditions effect the outcome of the media. If there are better alternatives than these, please post, it is great to learn from others. Please message me or leave a comment about any mistakes or clarifications.
__________________________
The first factor to consider when repotting a Paphiopedilum is "why?". Most people are accustomed to repotting their orchids at a certain time of year, or when it is convenient for the plant. Repotting induces expansion and growth, and reduces stress and struggle, so it is usually nessecary to repot to mantain healthy plants. But on Paphiopedilum plants, it is almost the complete opposite. One must find out how these elusive beauties grow in nature to grasp a full understanding on how to cultivate them.
First question a person must ask is where Paphiopedilums grow in nature and why they grow there. The answer is relatively complex, but the explanation is rather simple. Paphiopedilum plants normally grow in humus or on dead trees. There is a reason for growing in such dumb spots, why not on the side of a live tree, or on a beautiful rock suitable for a lithophytic dweller? It is what makes the natural media that the Paphiopedilum seeks out. Symbiotic fungi decompose dead material into usable, organic matter. These same fungi also make humus and convert the cellulose from the dead wood into usable sugars. This is what separates the Paphiopedilum plants from the rest of the orchids. Most other tuberous orchids seek tree roots, where Mycorrhizal fungi dwell, and eventually the fungi mycellium spread out to surround and enter the orchid tubers. Paphiopedilums depend on the Sybiotic fungi to help keep the plant alive. The Symbiotic fungi surround the roots of the Paphiopedilum, but do not enter inside. The term applied here is 'commensalism', where the plant benefits, but the fungi are left alone and unharmed. The waste product of the Symbiotic fungi is either the nutrients left behind in the humus, or in the sugars in the dead wood, which the Paphiopedilum needs. When there is no more dead material or cellulose to convert, the fungi usually dies. Ultimately, the Paphiopedilum slowly uses up the last of the waste products, and also dies. So, the decomposing media in a cultivated pot of Paphiopedilum is normally wanted, not unwanted as in most other pots of orchids. But obtaining the right materials that the fungi like induces fungi growth, which results in Paphiopedilum growth.
Some things to be considered when selecting materials for a new Paphiopedilum medium include what conditions the Symbiotic fungi survive in and what they decompose faster. Symbiotic fungi dislike sunlight, the fungi actually decomposes at the sight of sunlight. These fungi are more "behind the scenes" workers, and tend to stay inside and hidden just below the top layer.
These Symbiotic fungi need to stay damp at almost all times, and in a relatively room temperature surrounding. When conditions are dry, they venture deeper into the ground, or in cultivation, the pot. A nessecary component for retaining water is perlite or cocoanut husk. The best component is humus, where the fungi are already growing and thriving, but a person must venture into the woods and dig under old leaf debris to find humus. Humus also retains water for a long time, but when dried out, it simply turns into dirt, and is almost impossible to reverse the effects. The fungi keep the humus, humus. Humus is basically "alive". But if there is no humus available, use some dirt from a shady spot, or even compost, then mix the husk and/or perlite in. This is your base medium for the Paphiopedilum.
The next component is the "food", what the fungi are going to convert into nutrients or sugars for the Paphiopedilum plant to obtain. Cocoanut husk, as I mentioned previously, is a very good component for retaining water, and also for being decomposed. The cellulose fibers of the cocoanut husk allow it to be easily accessed by the fungi, and be decomposed at a quick rate. Another component may also be small, chopped pieces of leaf litter. These are the dead leaves, I recomend either Oak (Quercus sp.) or Maple (Acer sp.). Chopping the dead leaves into smaller pieces allows quicker entry access into the sides of the leaf to decompose rapidly. These are to be added with the base medium for the Paphiopedilum.
Some other optional components that do not hinder the fungi may include tiny pieces of limestone, small pieces of mulch (remove from about 3cm deep, usually contains Symbiotic fungi), and small broken up twigs. These can be mixed also with the base medium.
Basically, the medium for a Paphiopedilum can be compared to organic gardening, and utilizing natures "trash" and "trashmen" (dead material and the decomposing fungi).
The last component is charcoal. I suggest two types of charcoal options, and a charcoal additive. Though charcoal is nothing more than burnt wood, it still serves as a nutrient rich component. There are two ways to give your Paphiopedilum charcoal. A person can either get charcoal pieces (the finer, the better), or can burn their own paper and have charcoal flakes (make sure the paper is black, and not grey), either way works just fine. The charcoal, instead of being mixed inside the medium, will be placed on the top layer of the pot. This is so it will break down from the top of the roots on downward. Then, have some charcoal pieces, about 1/4 of a cup full, and crush them into a very fine powder. Simply sprinkle it everywhere on top of the charcoal in the pot, and then afterwards, water it in. The powder will slowly make its way down to the base medium, where it can be further utilized.
Media to avoid with Paphiopedilum plants are Sphagnum Moss and Bark. Sphagnum moss cannot support a Paphiopedilum for long, when the moss dries out, the few fungi that live in the moss quickly die. Bark is basically used for epiphytic orchids to grasp upon. Sometimes, but rarely, fungi is growing in or on the sides of the bark chips. They provide a Paphiopedilum plant no efficient purpose.
Here is where my research is still in progress. This research on fertilizer's relationship with orchids can be disregarded, if wanted, because I am still working on hard evidence and statistics on these observations.
I have researched so far that fertilizer does nothing directly to an orchid plant. The fertilizer usually effects the microbes which live on or around the plant, or even in the air (these include fungi, algae, and bacteria), which indirectly creates commensalism between the microbes and the orchid. When fertilizing an orchid, the fertilizer does not absorb into the velamen of an orchid root. The velamen is a semi-permeable substance which allows water molecules and smaller molecules to pass by. All other molecules build up a residue on the surface of the orchid root and medium. Fertilizer is a great "energy drink" for algae, which you may notice on your orchids if you keep them wet enough. Though the fertilizer does nothing for the orchid, it promotes the spawning and growth of algae and other microbes. The algae is a very strong, but plant safe, natural fertilizer. The fertilizer may also feed the Symbiotic or Mycorrhizal fungi found within the pot, which may help the orchid plant. Fertilizer is a very dangerous substance, which can cause cancer, twitches, severe bacterial infections, death, and many other health problems. The natural algae fertilizer is a better alternative than the dangerous man-made fertilizers commonly used. Besides the algae's efficiency over man-made fertilizers, it is safer for other organisms also, and does no ruin water supplies (permanently). I am still to prove all of this, but most of this is correct.
As I mentioned before, this will work for some people, and some people it won't work. Sometimes, the fungi will dislike the temperature, the surroundings inside the pot, or even watering conditions. The main thing to focus on growing with Paphiopedilum is the fungi, and not so much the plant. The Paphiopedilum will do its thing accordingly and as directed by the fungi and their condition.
Please let me know if this is useful information. If you are going to try this medium, please use it on a replaceable or dispensable Paphiopedilum plant, maybe your conditions are not ideal for cultivating this fungus, and your plant may die as a result. I am not trying to scare anyone, but see the difference with the "before and after" switching to a more fungi-rich medium. I had a small Paph. malipoense, near death, and am growing it with my medium in shade with the temp. around 90F constant, and is thriving. Same with my rare form of Paph. micranthum and Paph. armeniacum. The medium works very well for me, and I am now deciding to share the secret to my superior Paphiopedilum success. I use the same ingredients of this medium to grow my plants of Triphora gentienoides, which is an impossible orchid to grow outside of its natural location.
-P.A. Mahon
__________________________
The first factor to consider when repotting a Paphiopedilum is "why?". Most people are accustomed to repotting their orchids at a certain time of year, or when it is convenient for the plant. Repotting induces expansion and growth, and reduces stress and struggle, so it is usually nessecary to repot to mantain healthy plants. But on Paphiopedilum plants, it is almost the complete opposite. One must find out how these elusive beauties grow in nature to grasp a full understanding on how to cultivate them.
First question a person must ask is where Paphiopedilums grow in nature and why they grow there. The answer is relatively complex, but the explanation is rather simple. Paphiopedilum plants normally grow in humus or on dead trees. There is a reason for growing in such dumb spots, why not on the side of a live tree, or on a beautiful rock suitable for a lithophytic dweller? It is what makes the natural media that the Paphiopedilum seeks out. Symbiotic fungi decompose dead material into usable, organic matter. These same fungi also make humus and convert the cellulose from the dead wood into usable sugars. This is what separates the Paphiopedilum plants from the rest of the orchids. Most other tuberous orchids seek tree roots, where Mycorrhizal fungi dwell, and eventually the fungi mycellium spread out to surround and enter the orchid tubers. Paphiopedilums depend on the Sybiotic fungi to help keep the plant alive. The Symbiotic fungi surround the roots of the Paphiopedilum, but do not enter inside. The term applied here is 'commensalism', where the plant benefits, but the fungi are left alone and unharmed. The waste product of the Symbiotic fungi is either the nutrients left behind in the humus, or in the sugars in the dead wood, which the Paphiopedilum needs. When there is no more dead material or cellulose to convert, the fungi usually dies. Ultimately, the Paphiopedilum slowly uses up the last of the waste products, and also dies. So, the decomposing media in a cultivated pot of Paphiopedilum is normally wanted, not unwanted as in most other pots of orchids. But obtaining the right materials that the fungi like induces fungi growth, which results in Paphiopedilum growth.
Some things to be considered when selecting materials for a new Paphiopedilum medium include what conditions the Symbiotic fungi survive in and what they decompose faster. Symbiotic fungi dislike sunlight, the fungi actually decomposes at the sight of sunlight. These fungi are more "behind the scenes" workers, and tend to stay inside and hidden just below the top layer.
These Symbiotic fungi need to stay damp at almost all times, and in a relatively room temperature surrounding. When conditions are dry, they venture deeper into the ground, or in cultivation, the pot. A nessecary component for retaining water is perlite or cocoanut husk. The best component is humus, where the fungi are already growing and thriving, but a person must venture into the woods and dig under old leaf debris to find humus. Humus also retains water for a long time, but when dried out, it simply turns into dirt, and is almost impossible to reverse the effects. The fungi keep the humus, humus. Humus is basically "alive". But if there is no humus available, use some dirt from a shady spot, or even compost, then mix the husk and/or perlite in. This is your base medium for the Paphiopedilum.
The next component is the "food", what the fungi are going to convert into nutrients or sugars for the Paphiopedilum plant to obtain. Cocoanut husk, as I mentioned previously, is a very good component for retaining water, and also for being decomposed. The cellulose fibers of the cocoanut husk allow it to be easily accessed by the fungi, and be decomposed at a quick rate. Another component may also be small, chopped pieces of leaf litter. These are the dead leaves, I recomend either Oak (Quercus sp.) or Maple (Acer sp.). Chopping the dead leaves into smaller pieces allows quicker entry access into the sides of the leaf to decompose rapidly. These are to be added with the base medium for the Paphiopedilum.
Some other optional components that do not hinder the fungi may include tiny pieces of limestone, small pieces of mulch (remove from about 3cm deep, usually contains Symbiotic fungi), and small broken up twigs. These can be mixed also with the base medium.
Basically, the medium for a Paphiopedilum can be compared to organic gardening, and utilizing natures "trash" and "trashmen" (dead material and the decomposing fungi).
The last component is charcoal. I suggest two types of charcoal options, and a charcoal additive. Though charcoal is nothing more than burnt wood, it still serves as a nutrient rich component. There are two ways to give your Paphiopedilum charcoal. A person can either get charcoal pieces (the finer, the better), or can burn their own paper and have charcoal flakes (make sure the paper is black, and not grey), either way works just fine. The charcoal, instead of being mixed inside the medium, will be placed on the top layer of the pot. This is so it will break down from the top of the roots on downward. Then, have some charcoal pieces, about 1/4 of a cup full, and crush them into a very fine powder. Simply sprinkle it everywhere on top of the charcoal in the pot, and then afterwards, water it in. The powder will slowly make its way down to the base medium, where it can be further utilized.
Media to avoid with Paphiopedilum plants are Sphagnum Moss and Bark. Sphagnum moss cannot support a Paphiopedilum for long, when the moss dries out, the few fungi that live in the moss quickly die. Bark is basically used for epiphytic orchids to grasp upon. Sometimes, but rarely, fungi is growing in or on the sides of the bark chips. They provide a Paphiopedilum plant no efficient purpose.
Here is where my research is still in progress. This research on fertilizer's relationship with orchids can be disregarded, if wanted, because I am still working on hard evidence and statistics on these observations.
I have researched so far that fertilizer does nothing directly to an orchid plant. The fertilizer usually effects the microbes which live on or around the plant, or even in the air (these include fungi, algae, and bacteria), which indirectly creates commensalism between the microbes and the orchid. When fertilizing an orchid, the fertilizer does not absorb into the velamen of an orchid root. The velamen is a semi-permeable substance which allows water molecules and smaller molecules to pass by. All other molecules build up a residue on the surface of the orchid root and medium. Fertilizer is a great "energy drink" for algae, which you may notice on your orchids if you keep them wet enough. Though the fertilizer does nothing for the orchid, it promotes the spawning and growth of algae and other microbes. The algae is a very strong, but plant safe, natural fertilizer. The fertilizer may also feed the Symbiotic or Mycorrhizal fungi found within the pot, which may help the orchid plant. Fertilizer is a very dangerous substance, which can cause cancer, twitches, severe bacterial infections, death, and many other health problems. The natural algae fertilizer is a better alternative than the dangerous man-made fertilizers commonly used. Besides the algae's efficiency over man-made fertilizers, it is safer for other organisms also, and does no ruin water supplies (permanently). I am still to prove all of this, but most of this is correct.
As I mentioned before, this will work for some people, and some people it won't work. Sometimes, the fungi will dislike the temperature, the surroundings inside the pot, or even watering conditions. The main thing to focus on growing with Paphiopedilum is the fungi, and not so much the plant. The Paphiopedilum will do its thing accordingly and as directed by the fungi and their condition.
Please let me know if this is useful information. If you are going to try this medium, please use it on a replaceable or dispensable Paphiopedilum plant, maybe your conditions are not ideal for cultivating this fungus, and your plant may die as a result. I am not trying to scare anyone, but see the difference with the "before and after" switching to a more fungi-rich medium. I had a small Paph. malipoense, near death, and am growing it with my medium in shade with the temp. around 90F constant, and is thriving. Same with my rare form of Paph. micranthum and Paph. armeniacum. The medium works very well for me, and I am now deciding to share the secret to my superior Paphiopedilum success. I use the same ingredients of this medium to grow my plants of Triphora gentienoides, which is an impossible orchid to grow outside of its natural location.
-P.A. Mahon
