Some seedling progress

[CharlesD]

Kolopakingii has a very useful trait to pass on when crossed to parvis & brachys: it makes things that you can actually bloom.

I bet you'll still have 20 growths on them anyway lol

 

[tnyr5]

Thaianum with 8 spikes starting.

 

[Tom-DE]

wow! that is sick!

 

[CharlesD]

View attachment 52292

Thaianum with 8 spikes starting.

If this is a seedling not a mother plant can you also make us feel inadequate by giving years from flask?

 

[tnyr5]

This is pretty old now, 6.5 years from flask or so.

 

[IvoPhal]

Wonderful, how did you do it? The prescription, pls

 

[CharlesD]

This is pretty old now, 6.5 years from flask or so.

Ok I feel better now lol

 

[tnyr5]

...of course, if I didn't set multiple pods on it every year, it might be twice as big, lol.

 

[CharlesD]

...of course, if I didn't set multiple pods on it every year, it might be twice as big, lol.

Omg lol. Speaking of which I do have some pollen for you that you might want to use on this. Been busy at work lately but I’ll be at this month SEPOS meeting

 

[tnyr5]

Ohh tantalizing.
I will let you know if I'll be there. Mom was in a bad car accident last week and she needs care 24/7 right now. My family and I are doing it in shifts and I'm the night shift.

 

[CharlesD]

Ohh tantalizing.
I will let you know if I'll be there. Mom was in a bad car accident last week and she needs care 24/7 right now. My family and I are doing it in shifts and I'm the night shift.

Oh my god. I’m so sorry to hear that. Will be thinking of you guys. Not a big deal if not I can mail it to you.

 

[tnyr5]

Wonderful, how did you do it? The prescription, pls

Lol
With the disclaimer that this is just what works for me...

Mix is coarse perlite & medium rexius bark, top dress every 4-6 weeks with a generous amount of oyster shell & crushed granite (chicken grit). Every 4-6 weeks seems to keep run-through pH stable in the mid 5s in my conditions, though I've measured run-through pH as low as 3 with no apparent effect on the plant in the short term.

Pots: Deep 2.5in pots (see root mass section); they don't do well in tiny pots that are also shallow.

I water every 2-3 days during the growing season.

Ferts: every second watering, pH adjusted to between 5.5 & 6 with either Potassium hydroxide or a weak solution of sulfuric acid.

Thaianums don't seem to be too fussy about npk/micronutrient values (within reason) & they don't need calcium with every feeding if the mix contains oyster shell (but they do still want it twice a month or so.). They are heavier feeders than you think and can easily handle 100ppm N. They're fond of urea and ammoniacal N.

The big trick with thaianum: They are mostly roots. Root mass can be twice the leaf mass or more. You MUST keep those roots happy; they are unforgiving of root loss, and those tiny fans are very good at appearing fine even with only one live root. This is the one thing I will confidently say is true in any conditions.

I grow them very hot: 70°F(21°C) nights for most of the year, a few degrees cooler in winter. Daytime temps winter-summer 80-90°+F (26-32°+C)

Dormancy: Winter rest begins late November and continues until I see sheaths deep in the crown. Rest begins by cutting water frequency in half, then in half again, after which they only get a small trickle or a misting once a month. Humidity must remain high during dormancy, and in desperately dry times, I seal them in plastic bags. They come out of dormancy in reverse of how they went in, with water slowly ramping up to normal over a few weeks. A sudden deluge can damage roots. Occasionally I'll find a plant that is tolerant of me ignoring dormancy, but at least with my grex, that is usually fatal.

 

[tnyr5]

Oh my god. I’m so sorry to hear that. Will be thinking of you guys. Not a big deal if not I can mail it to you.

Aw, thank you.