Why no blooms

[SlipperKing]

Like I said eary on.....poor water. Have it tested. It's probably off the scale for salts and you add to the problem by adding fert to it.

 

[SlipperFan]

Schultz plant food 10-15-10 - every other schultz Orchid food 15-36-15 I think - oystershells on brachys - parvis multis as above - basically I have 5 or more from every main group as listed in a plant list from the good growers and best suppliers - I label each plant label with needs from internet growers - although most ofthe growers like Glen from Piping Rock say they only use 1 fert. =I have at least 15 diff sources for years and have always received great plants Thanks -john

From my observations working at an orchid greenhouse: every time someone would come in, unhappy because they couldn't get their plants to bloom, we would ask them what fertilizer they were using, and they would invariably say "Schultz." Unless they've changed their formula, they don't have the micronutrients orchids need, like boron.

Why did you only use the MSU formula once? I think you should be sure you have the formula for the kind of water you use, and then follow the directions for it's use. I bet things will get better for you.

 

[goldenrose]

-I once had a member that believed water 3 weeks and let the 4th week be skipped - then theres the thought that keeping on the dry side will incourage the roots to grow a search out moisture?

Yes, I've heard this too, & part of it is probably true. The question that I would have to this is - after I have potentially overwatered for 3 weeks, is 1 week enough for the roots to recover & now go out & seek moisture? I would doubt it.

Slipperking you bring up a good & very important point with water quality but John did indicate he uses de-ionized, which to some, is equivalent to RO, so could it still be high in salts?

 

[Mrs. Paph]

It sounds like you've done a lot of research and are doing a lot of things right, but I'd definately lose the Shultz fertilizer as others have said! Years ago when I got my first Phal at Home Depot, I also bought Shultz 'Orchid' fertilizer. I then went home to look up some information on my exciting new plant, and found info on fertilizer recommendations. I read the label on the Shultz, and had to toss it out. I personally now use the liquid (I prefer liquid b/c it doesn't clump up in storage from humidity issues) or the powdered MSU type fertilizer.

 

[SlipperKing]

Slipperking you bring up a good & very important point with water quality but John did indicate he uses de-ionized, which to some, is equivalent to RO, so could it still be high in salts?

No Rose, The problem with "super pure" water is the lack of salts. Pure water actually leaches out anything that it is stored in: plastic,glass,metal etc. You can't live on pure water, you will become dehydrated. Same with the plants. It's called osmosis. The moving of salts (and other chemicals) from high concentrations to low. IMHO

 

[john mickel]

Rick - I use RO water plus balanced fert ( non-Urea ) Ground water has 220ppm of minerals - neither pro duces blooms or good green growth - the problem has to be poor root production - thanks

 

[Heather]

John,

What is your lighting like? I always believed no blooms can definitely be due to a lack of light. Especially with multis. What's your direction?

 

[bench72]

Hi John, how long ago since you've had the plants?

I also grow ourside on a patio, much the same latitude albeit on the southern hemisphere... I've found that plants I've bought takes at least two years to mature and rebloom.. the cooler winter seems to slow down the growth so it needs two seasons to mature the growths.

also, i found upping my bloom booster in late winter/ early spring tends to get some of the plants to bloom during the warmer summer period when they are in active growth... doesn't agree with when they are suppose to bloom, but at least they are in bloom...

good luck with finding the solution to the prob.

 

[likespaphs]

...the problem has to be poor root production...

but what is the causing the poor root production?
hmmm...

i've heard people say you don't grow orchid plants or orchid flowers, you grow the roots and the rest will follow.

 

[john mickel]

I never noticed any difference in 1 year plus the cost of using the MSO recommended RO water - Yesterday I got some Urea Free Grow More 20-20-20 - to be used with tap water - whose ph is about 7.9 - this should lower the PH to Pahs liking - below 6.5 - john

 

[john mickel]

50 to 60 percent in the summer - patio light during the rest 0f the year - thanks- which leaves me just shy of leaf burn

 

[Rick]

John

I think the biggest problem is lack of air humidity. Growing outdoors in So Cal the temps are good, but humidity is usually <<50%, (and probably in the 20 to 30% range) which is very stressful for paphs and pleuros. If you can enclose them and raise humidity to 70% or more I think you'd get much better growth, and much less leaf drop.

I experienced similar growth patterns in my plants before discovering humidity control.

Also a greenhouse in and of itself is not an automatic way to raise humidity, but you would need to add foggers or wetpads. You aren't too far from Andy's orchids. You may want to consult with them. I think Lance Birk is near you too, and has a great book. In particular read the section on "good air versus bad air".

 

[john mickel]

THANKS - i KNOW ANDY WELL - HES ABOUT 2 MILES AWAY FROM THE OCEAN AND OF COURSE HAS THE BEST OF OUTDOOR GROWING CONDITIONS IE: SANTA BABARA ORCHIDS - i'M ABOUT 5 MILE OFF THE COAST AND ON THE EDGE OF THE HUMIDITY - DURING santa anna's i do get down to 10 - 20 % - I try to mist - but that could be the missing link - john