You cant just walk into a store and get Cipro.
So it should better to use SC M???
Hello!
I hope I can help you. My problem was similar for more than 2 years, I thought that I give up dealing with orchids because this problem. I tried everything, drier conditions, cinnamon, Cu, every fungicides, all of were insufficient. This diseases killed many of my catts, eg. dowiana rosita ( I was very sad...), symptoms were similar: all of new growths turned to black and died. All of new, otherwise healthy plants were put in my greenhouse showed the sign of diseases within few days: started new growts rotted black within a week.
After reading many of articles I accused Pseudomonas , it is a bacteria wich is resistent against fungicides, of course, spreads with water ( even by humidifier, tha explains rapid spreading)quickly.
After than I spayed my plants with ciprofloxacine and using 1,5 ml/l NaOCl 5% solution for desinfecting water. Symptoms disappeared within a week and can't be seen in my culture for more than a year.
IMO antibiotist should be used only for humain disease... Antibiotic resistance poses a significant problem.
I am of similar opinion, but the advice you gave, dodidoki, is still good. Seems my original idea of spraying everything down with dilute H2O2 was a good one.
Pseudomonas are naturally antibiotic resistant. Any bacterium is resistant to at least 2 antibiotics so a medical treatment for them is normally a cocktail of 3 antibiotics. Not a good idea for plants...
I will proceed with H2O2 spraying as well as a little bleach in the water. When you say 1.5 mL 5% bleach, to what volume is that 1.5 mL added?
Thanks
Oh, yes, 1,5 ml 5% bleach added to one liter.
IMO antibiotist should be used only for humain disease... Antibiotic resistance poses a significant problem.
I tried peroxide, too, but my opinion it hurts the tip of roots especially in cattleyas. Bleach doesn't do that for a long time.
Probably if you think that probiotics will do it for you. My results were very mixed back in 2008 when I was still using high K fertilizer.
I also think if the chemical environment (TDS mix) of your substrate is poor to start with, then it won't make a difference. Especially in the long term.
So I think best bet is to get a TDS meter, flush pots down to as low as they will get, innoculate, and then feed at much lower rates than previous to keep TDS at bay.
Typically habitats that recieve chronic low doses of biocides end up with really tough scary populations of bugs, that require sporadic heavy "shock treatment" with massive doses of the biocides to knock them back in line.
Grr! Still spraying/watering with bleach every 2nd or 3rd day and to no avail. My Stanhopea's leaves were perfect yesterday and today they are rotten---only one of the two plants.
I have also been spraying with some extra Ca/Mg (3:1) in the water.
The new growth of my alba philippinense has also rotted off. I'm now very fed-up and have resigned myself to watching the collection slowly die. Whatever survives, well good for it, but it seems I can't win.
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