Early K-lite results

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As I wrote before, but noone can hear me, it is typical P deficiancy syndrome.
It is I think because of K lite, it contains very few P, but faster plants need more P. P is a reuptekable nutritient, older leaves turn red, later yellow ands fall down. I advise too, that K-lite formula must be modified increasing P to N/P 13/6 instead of 13/3.

http://www.slippertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28950

So how come this other plant of Keithrs is not deficient?
 
http://www.slippertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28950

So how come this other plant of Keithrs is not deficient?

I just speculated but I mislooked that symptoms began at new growth. Otherwise K-lite works at me, as I wrote to you, my parnatatum started to push up 5 (!!!) new growths... ( I noticed today).


NOTE: deficiency symptoms can be seen if there is something root problem, too....
 
NOTE: deficiency symptoms can be seen if there is something root problem, too....

Yes, if no/or poor roots then nutrients don't uptake into plants efficiently.

But could this be the chicken/egg question. Does nutrient imbalance casue poor roots to start with?

Something else to consider with outside grown plants exposed to potentially higher light and lower humidity levels (frequent Southern California conditions), is what is a typical plant response to conserve water?

I don't know about this particular plant of Keiths. It seems like a random outlier compared to his other plants.
 
What do you think about this? The color change has happened on new growth and no leave have fallen. It's an Epi. capricornu

I am going to speculate that this plant has been growing outside and in fairly strong light. I also will speculate that this condition has happened since the winter temperatures arrived. Is this close to accurate?

This looks like typical reed stem Epidendrum growing in California garden when it is just almost too cold. Almost too cold for too long.

This is not caused by a nutrient deficiency.
It may be a deficiency but if it is it is caused by environmental conditions.
Maybe the cold temperatures have caused the soft tissues to loose ability to manage nutrient balance.
It could be a virus that shows itself when the plant is weakened by the cold temperatures.
 
What do you think about this? The color change has happened on new growth and no leave have fallen. It's an Epi. capricornu

8C1036CB-FB80-4313-8FC0-4F522CDA3EB0-1343-000002B9F402B25C_zps826fd741.jpg

B87EB577-D5F0-45AB-8B0D-17FC0B4EDA9B-1343-000002B9EE0C27C6_zps6143c024.jpg

B7DBCFBD-4F5F-48A5-A82E-792AF9AF83C8-1343-000002B9F13C6F7A_zpsc916f4c6.jpg

There is nothing wrong with this plant. Many of the Laelinae flush red on the new growth in good light. It will eventually turn green. The plant is producing anthocyanin pigment to protect itself from UV light and all quite normal:)
 
I am going to speculate that this plant has been growing outside and in fairly strong light. I also will speculate that this condition has happened since the winter temperatures arrived. Is this close to accurate?
Yes, this plant grows outside. No, this plant doesn't see strong or even fairly strong light. It sit next to my house with my Masd and Draculas. Same place it sat where other growth was put on and this condition didn't show its self. Yes, this condition has set in, in the last month.

This looks like typical reed stem Epidendrum growing in California garden when it is just almost too cold. Almost too cold for too long.
I have my reed stems are in full sun with not even close to the pigment showing. There more purple than red.

This is not caused by a nutrient deficiency.
It may be a deficiency but if it is it is caused by environmental conditions.
Maybe the cold temperatures have caused the soft tissues to loose ability to manage nutrient balance.
It could be a virus that shows itself when the plant is weakened by the cold temperatures.
I'm not saying it is... But I have not fertilized pretty much all winter and it very well may be environmental. Very much doubt it is virused.

I posted the pics just to see what the general consciences.
 
Possibly early klite results?:poke:

In that case I absolutely love the beautiful red foliage. :drool:

Or lets; try this one.....

But I have not fertilized pretty much all winter

In order to blame K-lite the requirement is that you take the K-lite out of the can. I think you busted yourself. :poke:
 
In that case I absolutely love the beautiful red foliage. :drool:

Or lets; try this one.....



In order to blame K-lite the requirement is that you take the K-lite out of the can. I think you busted yourself. :poke:

Im not sure I blamed anything for the plants condition, Did I? :wink:
 
I feel like I'm pi**ing against the wind....The purple red colours are normal on new growth of SOME plants. (Especially in cool bright weather) The black spots have nothing to do with the colour they are caused by humid cool weather (fungal) and nothing serious and no deficiency. I've seen this a hundred million trillion times over the last 30 years.
 
Hi all, I'm back home, and wanted to again thank you all for your thoughts and advice.

I have made some changes in my fertilizing, increased concentration to 150ppm and will do the best I can to fertilize at least one more day a week, and managed to find some bone meal, which was more difficult than it should have been. I'm going to try sprinkling some bonemeal on a few plants, and watch and see.

Again thank you.
 
I feel some contrast between article and Rick's K-lite theory. Anyway when I used conventional fertilizers, plants suffered and died, since I've been using K-lite, plants are nicer, roots are stronger. The message of this article for me that maybe worth to increase carefully K-conc. when plants start to produce flower stem.
 
Anyway when I used conventional fertilizers, plants suffered and died,
But its not the fertilizers that made your plants die. It was either the way you used it or some other reason. I almost killed a bunch of gardenias this summer when I applied some pelletized organic fertilizer. They were severely damaged by ammonium toxicity, not the K. Most of the worlds best orchid growers use ''conventional'' fertilizers, but at very low consentration.
 
I saw this one a ways back.

How come all my stuff is still alive?? Especially my phales?

Maybe the high nitrogen thing is a clue, since I also don't add a ton of nitrogen.
 
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