PHRAGMIPEDIUM Problems .....

[keithrs]

Thanks for the recommendations....Where do you find or buy K-Lite fertilizer?

Ray is the only one who sells it.

K-Lite

 

[NeoNJ]

I don´t understand why there are no pics, if there is any problem with health, the doctor has to see the patient. To get a visulal impression of the phaeno- type of the problem.
If there is a proplem, the patient has to be patient, but he has, too, to come out with the problem.
With pictures, it would be much easier to help your plants.

A picture of what ? a Green plant growing in a pot ......
The plants don't have any type of disease, or fungus, or bacterial, or root rot or anything ..........

I don't own a camera, and hence, can't take photo's of the Orchids.

 

[NeoNJ]

Ray is the only one who sells it.

K-Lite

Thanks for the reply. I just ordered MSU fertilizer. I hope that will help the Phrags.

 

[keithrs]

Good luck!

I saw a huge difference going from Growmore 20-10-20 to MSU....

 

[Rick]

Thanks for the reply. I just ordered MSU fertilizer. I hope that will help the Phrags.

I did a work around to get the K reduced in standard MSU which made a big difference for my phrags. If you search through the old threads on K-lite you will see what I was getting at.

In general orchids can't handle the relative high amounts of K in standard "balanced" fertilizers. It blocks the uptake of Ca/Mg.

So in cases where the plant and potting mix is saturated with K it helps to use a bit extra Mg to "purge" some of the extra K out of the plant and potting mix.

Same for adding a bit of well or tap water into RO water. The extra Ca/Mg helps build up the plant and purge K out of the potting mix.

Long term plants should get more Ca than Mg, so I wouldn't reccomend long term or regular use of Epsom in RO or distilled water without making sure there's some calcium around somewhere. Slipperking got a rash of crippled flowers in longifolum types after extended boosting of Mg in his irrigation rain water.

 

[Rick]

Thanks for the recommendations....Where do you find or buy K-Lite fertilizer?

So far we are just in trial mode and I don't believe there is any left to buy.

There is a way to get close with standard MSU/Calcium nitrate/epsom salt

 

[NYEric]

Hi -
Thanks for the reply. I have tried aliflor and I can only tell you that all of the orchids I've grown in aliflor have died a horrible death. There is something about that medium that I just do not like at all, and neither do my plants.

I find I had problems growing S/H with aliflor until I really stepped up the amount and number of times I add water daily. If it doesn't work for you, still treat the sick plants and have patience with the rest. BTW you can make your own K-lite.

 

[Erythrone]

A picture of what ? a Green plant growing in a pot ......
The plants don't have any type of disease, or fungus, or bacterial, or root rot or anything ..........
.

You were talking about a plant loosing its newer leaves too


oke:

 

[NeoNJ]

I did a work around to get the K reduced in standard MSU which made a big difference for my phrags. If you search through the old threads on K-lite you will see what I was getting at.

In general orchids can't handle the relative high amounts of K in standard "balanced" fertilizers. It blocks the uptake of Ca/Mg.

So in cases where the plant and potting mix is saturated with K it helps to use a bit extra Mg to "purge" some of the extra K out of the plant and potting mix.

Same for adding a bit of well or tap water into RO water. The extra Ca/Mg helps build up the plant and purge K out of the potting mix.

Long term plants should get more Ca than Mg, so I wouldn't reccomend long term or regular use of Epsom in RO or distilled water without making sure there's some calcium around somewhere. Slipperking got a rash of crippled flowers in longifolum types after extended boosting of Mg in his irrigation rain water.

I had/have been using Dyna-Gro. Sounds to me like I should continue.....
since all the micro-nutrients are there including the extra Ca/Mg, without the extra K........

I'm not so sure the MSU fertilizer will provide what you're referring to ....

 

[keithrs]

You have to remember that Dyna is in concentrate form and MSU is in powder form.

MSU will have more Ca and Mg in the end...

Ether way you go you'll be fine.

 

[NeoNJ]

You have to remember that Dyna is in concentrate form and MSU is in powder form.

MSU will have more Ca and Mg in the end...

Ether way you go you'll be fine.

The MSU I purchased is liquid form.

 

[SlipperFan]

The MSU I purchased is liquid form.

That just means the distributor dissolved it from the powder form. The important thing is, which formula do you have: the rain/RO/distilled formula, or the well/tap water formula? The "MSU" fertilizer is sold both ways.

You can download the formulas from the bottom of this page:
http://los.lon.imag.net/MiscFile.asp

 

[Clark]

Our living space is a vile enviroment for orchids.
Day/nite temps. are the same.
Humidity during winter, as low as 16%.
Not enough rain water to flush the pots out.
Can't wait to open the windows and get some fresh air inside,
or get the 'chids outside.

Sometimes, I think growing and blooming, are two different beasts.

 

[quaker]

I have quite a few phrags and 20 or so of them are watered 24Hours per day with tap water and fed twice per year on blood and bone food as used for garden plants--- and they grow like cabbages. The tap water is very soft and slightly acidic. My other phrags ( divisions ) are all grown in NZ sphagnum and at the moment are fed just a small amount per watering of nitrogen. I know not everyone will agree with my methods but they seem to work for me. the phrags on 24hour waterings take time to adjust to their new conditions when the old roots die off and new roots start to appear after a month or two. The divisions are all taken from these plants and watered every other day.

Ed

 

[NeoNJ]

That just means the distributor dissolved it from the powder form. The important thing is, which formula do you have: the rain/RO/distilled formula, or the well/tap water formula? The "MSU" fertilizer is sold both ways.

You can download the formulas from the bottom of this page:
http://los.lon.imag.net/MiscFile.asp

The formula I purchased arrived today ---- it is the Well/Tap Water formula.

 

[keithrs]

The formula I purchased arrived today ---- it is the Well/Tap Water formula.

Just to let you know that the well version has no Ca or Mg.

 

[NeoNJ]

I think I'm gonna continue to use Dyna-Gro and forget the MSU !

 

[NeoNJ]

Just to let you know that the well version has no Ca or Mg.

Actually, that is not correct.

I just went to the website of REPOT ME where I purchased the product
and the Well/Tap water product ingredient list states:

macronutrients:

Calcium - 8%
Magnesium - 2.6%

 

[keithrs]

oops....

 

[SlipperFan]

Just to let you know that the well version has no Ca or Mg.

Not true. It has 2% Ca -- because most ground water already has quite a bit of Ca in it.