does this look like a virus?

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Doesn't the invitro process of many repeated cloning phases for virus removal have high risk of genetic mutation?
If so then there becomes a risk that the cleaned clone may not actually be a division of the original prized plant. Mutated clones can look identical but actually pass on different genetics when used it producing new hybrids.
My explanation of the process is the way I understand it in the simplest of terms, however, may not be completely representative. That would be an excellent question for Beth Lamb, she also does a lot of work for ag companies getting viruses out of commercial crops and is in FL. If you google her, I think you could find contact info. I know Dave Off has her info as both he, Art Chadwick and Keith Davis have sent her historic plants. Keith is the most scientific of the 3 having been on UNC's hort staff, and would be happy to talk to you. He does not sell plants, but has a website with contact info and would not mind the contact at all. https://keithdavisorchids.com/index-orchids.htm
 
oh on a side note I forgot to mention - the Cattleya orchid that started all this was the only plant out of my collection that tested positive for BOTH viruses on the test strip - ORSV and CymMV all the other plants only tested positive for the ORSV. I spoke with the man who gave me the Cat. and he told me he got it years ago as a "baby bag orchid" from a box store. So now I am thinking that was probably definitely the original plant.
 
sorry to revive an old thread but now almost a year later after culling so many plants from my collection that were positive I am paranoid. Out of 15 Phals. all tested positive except 2 and now a year later those 2 still test neg. However, and this is a Big However,. both plants are spiking but in a very strange way. Instead of the spikes growing normal they are branching like crazy and short and stubby. I am wondering if it is possible to be positive but give neg. results. I am about to the point of being so paranoid over these 2 plants that I am to the point of trashing them regardless but hate to get rid of plants that are ok. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
I agree it could be a virus. But wait to see the next blooming to make sure it’s not a one off defect with the flowers.
 
I retested both plants for virus before posting and they both came back negative but what got me worried was they had never bloomed this way in the past. I was amazed at these 2 coming back negative when ALL of the rest of the phals came back positive so with these unusual bloom spikes this year it had me concerned even with the negative test results.
 
no I have not used any kind of hormone on these BUT I have used seaweed based fertilizer (for some reason I am thinking that I remember now that you mention hormone that seaweed has plant hormones in it) so maybe that is the cause?
Yes there is a high possibility the plant regulators in seaweed would cause deformed growth. On phals the flower stems are extremely sensitive to the effects.
 
Don’t mean to hijack your thread but trying to be helpful. It is possible the Kelp increased the blooming.
If you are concerned about virus you need to make sure you are not spreading it. Your close growing conditions with roots growing out of the pots, is a recipe for disaster. Also, do not reuse any pots, mix, tags, stakes, etc. Some people will clean and bake clay pots (400 degrees 2 hours) and reuse them, however with a known virused plant, it can be ill advised to reuse a clay pot even that you have “cleaned/baked”, especially from a known virused plant . I do bake metal rhizome clips after washing in detergent. Orchid viruses can live on surfaces, literally, for years. And with a porous surface, it’s very hard to eradicate it, if at all.
Regarding your two plants, I have mini phals that grow like this. The one with the cupped leaves freaked me out too. The first couple of leaves were normal, then the leaves were rounded and irregular. However, it is the way that particular cultivar grows in my case, as I’ve seen others.
You’ve got to also remember if you were lifting and taking to a sink to water, every plant you touch the roots of, etc., potentially can infect the next one. Our hands and certain insects (scale, thrips) are the biggest spreaders of virus from plant to plant. If possible, keep plants from touching each other. I always test before repotting. If virus is present everything goes out, saucer and all. Remember run-off can infect plants.
I use plastic saucers, not clay and the plants are always moved/watered on their saucers so roots growing out of the bottom don’t touch other surfaces. Disinfect your surfaces (I use Super SaniCloth wipes like they use in hospitals) and keep the surface wet for 2 min with the wipe. All plastic (I don’t re-use pots) saucers are washed with detergent, then soaked in strong 15-20% bleach solution bleach for at least an hour. And I soak and flame my clippers. Soak in super sat TSP, then wipe handle with the wipe, then flame the blade with MAP gas. Or use razor blades where possible. Very laborious, but growing indoors under lights in tight quarters (9x12 grow room) requires this of me if I endeavor to be virus free. I have some original heirloom plants that a clean, so consider it a responsibility to protect something that’s stayed clean for over 100 years.
Oh, and I don’t take plants to shows/meetings with roots growing out of pot. And anything I take to a show, is tested about a month, and then 6 months after. They are touched by a lot of hands being displayed and/or judged.
 

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