niveum

[Stone]

After giving it some slightly cooler conditions (min 12-15C) over winter it flowered on all growths (9) rather than one at a time (at min 17-20)
Slightly higher light helped as well I guess.

 

[Morja]

Woah! It appears you figured it out! Gorgeous.

 

[Duck Slipper]

Very nice!

 

[Tom-DE]

What a show! Congrats, Mike.
Please share your culture tips if you would.

 

[Stone]

What a show! Congrats, Mike.
Please share your culture tips if you would.

Thanks Tom and all. I had it in a ''hot chamber'' with lights overhead. Min about 18-20 max about 30.
Pot was selected after learning from Tanaka - rounded bottom so no free water remains after draining. Also...''brachys hate repotting'' so when established in the second pot after flask, and growing well, move to a large pot in which the plant will remain for years.
Potting mix should be long lasting. Bark, charcoal, polystyrene, leca etc. with lime/dolomite mix sprinkled on now and then. Fertilizer was standard - nutricote and occasional liquid. Not much of either.
I recently took it out of the chamber and put it in a brighter cooler spot but almost no water as it was dormant. It still has had only misting and one watering in the last month. Late spring here.
Cheers.

 

[Tom-DE]

Thank you, Mike. I will keep the potting mix and watering in mind...when I get a couple of seedlings in the spring here.

 

[Herbert Reisinger]

I have been to Lankawi Islands decades ago. I do not think, that the temperature there ever falls below 22C!

 

[kiwi]

Thanks Tom and all. I had it in a ''hot chamber'' with lights overhead. Min about 18-20 max about 30.
Pot was selected after learning from Tanaka - rounded bottom so no free water remains after draining. Also...''brachys hate repotting'' so when established in the second pot after flask, and growing well, move to a large pot in which the plant will remain for years.
Potting mix should be long lasting. Bark, charcoal, polystyrene, leca etc. with lime/dolomite mix sprinkled on now and then. Fertilizer was standard - nutricote and occasional liquid. Not much of either.
I recently took it out of the chamber and put it in a brighter cooler spot but almost no water as it was dormant. It still has had only misting and one watering in the last month. Late spring here.
Cheers.

Could you please advise the ratios of each of the components in your mix. I have read Tanakas culture and it is hard to understand but he seems to be saying that bark and silica based volcanic rock is preferred.

 

[Stone]

Could you please advise the ratios of each of the components in your mix. I have read Tanakas culture and it is hard to understand but he seems to be saying that bark and silica based volcanic rock is preferred.

You can use pumice, polystyrene, good bark, charcoal, small bits of fern fibre, even a little coarse gravel or coarse perlite or anything that will last a long time in any combination. I found scoria unacceptable. As the polystyrene does not absorb water and orchid roots seem to like it, you can use it to control how much moisture the mix holds depending on your situation. About 50/50 organic/mineral should be about right I think. For this pot the particle sizes are about 6-12mm, mainly 12.

 

[Stone]

I have been to Lankawi Islands decades ago. I do not think, that the temperature there ever falls below 22C!

Yes but I can only afford to keep those temps in a very small area.

 

[Phragper]

well done. and thanks for sharing some info on how you are growing it. i will now move my niveums into more light

 

[Tom-DE]

well done. and thanks for sharing some info on how you are growing it. i will now move my niveums into more light

I grow all my brachys and parvis(with one exception--emersonii) in bright light too...especially this time of the year.

 

[Tom-DE]

About 50/50 organic/mineral should be about right I think. For this pot the particle sizes are about 6-12mm, mainly 12.

Thank you, Mike. Do you also pot up the plant a little bit higher too?

 

[Stone]

Thank you, Mike. Do you also pot up the plant a little bit higher too?

No, not really but eventually they climb out of it a bit. If that happens I just a mulch of some fibre or something to cover the bases at the start of the growing season just as would happen in the habitat.

 

[Ozpaph]

well grown and flowered

 

[PhilaGardener]

Worth the wait! Well done!

 

[richgarrison]

Thanks Tom and all. I had it in a ''hot chamber'' with lights overhead. Min about 18-20 max about 30.
Pot was selected after learning from Tanaka - rounded bottom so no free water remains after draining. Also...''brachys hate repotting'' so when established in the second pot after flask, and growing well, move to a large pot in which the plant will remain for years.
Potting mix should be long lasting. Bark, charcoal, polystyrene, leca etc. with lime/dolomite mix sprinkled on now and then. Fertilizer was standard - nutricote and occasional liquid. Not much of either.
I recently took it out of the chamber and put it in a brighter cooler spot but almost no water as it was dormant. It still has had only misting and one watering in the last month. Late spring here.
Cheers.

+1 on the Tanaka sourced advice. i'm almost 5 years into that experiment with my brachys and 1 parvi... 10 growth niveum in flower there...

and thanx @Stone for posting your unstaked niveum we need to stick together !!!!

and so far so good...

 

[Tom-DE]

+1 on the Tanaka sourced advice. i'm almost 5 years into that experiment with my brachys and 1 parvi... 10 growth niveum in flower there...

Obviously it is working...congrats!
How big is the basket? What is that parvi... armeniacum?

 

[richgarrison]

The baskets are 6” and were relatively tough to find. The parvi is a primary cross with 3 leads forget which one but i remember its yellow so something with armeniacum in it. But I have a micranthum that is looking like it’ll flower for the first time this year and on 2 growths (hoping that doesn't jinx it).