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What a show! Congrats, Mike.
Please share your culture tips if you would.
Thanks Tom and all. I had it in a ''hot chamber'' with lights overhead. Min about 18-20 max about 30.
Pot was selected after learning from Tanaka - rounded bottom so no free water remains after draining. Also...''brachys hate repotting'' so when established in the second pot after flask, and growing well, move to a large pot in which the plant will remain for years.
Potting mix should be long lasting. Bark, charcoal, polystyrene, leca etc. with lime/dolomite mix sprinkled on now and then. Fertilizer was standard - nutricote and occasional liquid. Not much of either.
I recently took it out of the chamber and put it in a brighter cooler spot but almost no water as it was dormant. It still has had only misting and one watering in the last month. Late spring here.
Cheers.
 
Thank you, Mike. I will keep the potting mix and watering in mind...when I get a couple of seedlings in the spring here.
 
Thanks Tom and all. I had it in a ''hot chamber'' with lights overhead. Min about 18-20 max about 30.
Pot was selected after learning from Tanaka - rounded bottom so no free water remains after draining. Also...''brachys hate repotting'' so when established in the second pot after flask, and growing well, move to a large pot in which the plant will remain for years.
Potting mix should be long lasting. Bark, charcoal, polystyrene, leca etc. with lime/dolomite mix sprinkled on now and then. Fertilizer was standard - nutricote and occasional liquid. Not much of either.
I recently took it out of the chamber and put it in a brighter cooler spot but almost no water as it was dormant. It still has had only misting and one watering in the last month. Late spring here.
Cheers.
Could you please advise the ratios of each of the components in your mix. I have read Tanakas culture and it is hard to understand but he seems to be saying that bark and silica based volcanic rock is preferred.
 
Could you please advise the ratios of each of the components in your mix. I have read Tanakas culture and it is hard to understand but he seems to be saying that bark and silica based volcanic rock is preferred.
You can use pumice, polystyrene, good bark, charcoal, small bits of fern fibre, even a little coarse gravel or coarse perlite or anything that will last a long time in any combination. I found scoria unacceptable. As the polystyrene does not absorb water and orchid roots seem to like it, you can use it to control how much moisture the mix holds depending on your situation. About 50/50 organic/mineral should be about right I think. For this pot the particle sizes are about 6-12mm, mainly 12.
 
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Thanks Tom and all. I had it in a ''hot chamber'' with lights overhead. Min about 18-20 max about 30.
Pot was selected after learning from Tanaka - rounded bottom so no free water remains after draining. Also...''brachys hate repotting'' so when established in the second pot after flask, and growing well, move to a large pot in which the plant will remain for years.
Potting mix should be long lasting. Bark, charcoal, polystyrene, leca etc. with lime/dolomite mix sprinkled on now and then. Fertilizer was standard - nutricote and occasional liquid. Not much of either.
I recently took it out of the chamber and put it in a brighter cooler spot but almost no water as it was dormant. It still has had only misting and one watering in the last month. Late spring here.
Cheers.
+1 on the Tanaka sourced advice. i'm almost 5 years into that experiment with my brachys and 1 parvi... 10 growth niveum in flower there...

and thanx @Stone for posting your unstaked niveum we need to stick together !!!! :)

IMG_3768.jpg and so far so good...
 
The baskets are 6” and were relatively tough to find. The parvi is a primary cross with 3 leads forget which one but i remember its yellow so something with armeniacum in it. But I have a micranthum that is looking like it’ll flower for the first time this year and on 2 growths (hoping that doesn't jinx it).
 

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