Thanks Tom and all. I had it in a ''hot chamber'' with lights overhead. Min about 18-20 max about 30.What a show! Congrats, Mike.
Please share your culture tips if you would.
Could you please advise the ratios of each of the components in your mix. I have read Tanakas culture and it is hard to understand but he seems to be saying that bark and silica based volcanic rock is preferred.Thanks Tom and all. I had it in a ''hot chamber'' with lights overhead. Min about 18-20 max about 30.
Pot was selected after learning from Tanaka - rounded bottom so no free water remains after draining. Also...''brachys hate repotting'' so when established in the second pot after flask, and growing well, move to a large pot in which the plant will remain for years.
Potting mix should be long lasting. Bark, charcoal, polystyrene, leca etc. with lime/dolomite mix sprinkled on now and then. Fertilizer was standard - nutricote and occasional liquid. Not much of either.
I recently took it out of the chamber and put it in a brighter cooler spot but almost no water as it was dormant. It still has had only misting and one watering in the last month. Late spring here.
Cheers.
You can use pumice, polystyrene, good bark, charcoal, small bits of fern fibre, even a little coarse gravel or coarse perlite or anything that will last a long time in any combination. I found scoria unacceptable. As the polystyrene does not absorb water and orchid roots seem to like it, you can use it to control how much moisture the mix holds depending on your situation. About 50/50 organic/mineral should be about right I think. For this pot the particle sizes are about 6-12mm, mainly 12.Could you please advise the ratios of each of the components in your mix. I have read Tanakas culture and it is hard to understand but he seems to be saying that bark and silica based volcanic rock is preferred.
Yes but I can only afford to keep those temps in a very small area.I have been to Lankawi Islands decades ago. I do not think, that the temperature there ever falls below 22C!
I grow all my brachys and parvis(with one exception--emersonii) in bright light too...especially this time of the year.well done. and thanks for sharing some info on how you are growing it. i will now move my niveums into more light
Thank you, Mike. Do you also pot up the plant a little bit higher too?About 50/50 organic/mineral should be about right I think. For this pot the particle sizes are about 6-12mm, mainly 12.
No, not really but eventually they climb out of it a bit. If that happens I just a mulch of some fibre or something to cover the bases at the start of the growing season just as would happen in the habitat.Thank you, Mike. Do you also pot up the plant a little bit higher too?
+1 on the Tanaka sourced advice. i'm almost 5 years into that experiment with my brachys and 1 parvi... 10 growth niveum in flower there...Thanks Tom and all. I had it in a ''hot chamber'' with lights overhead. Min about 18-20 max about 30.
Pot was selected after learning from Tanaka - rounded bottom so no free water remains after draining. Also...''brachys hate repotting'' so when established in the second pot after flask, and growing well, move to a large pot in which the plant will remain for years.
Potting mix should be long lasting. Bark, charcoal, polystyrene, leca etc. with lime/dolomite mix sprinkled on now and then. Fertilizer was standard - nutricote and occasional liquid. Not much of either.
I recently took it out of the chamber and put it in a brighter cooler spot but almost no water as it was dormant. It still has had only misting and one watering in the last month. Late spring here.
Cheers.
Obviously it is working...congrats!+1 on the Tanaka sourced advice. i'm almost 5 years into that experiment with my brachys and 1 parvi... 10 growth niveum in flower there...
LOL! It's happened a lot lately I think you're safe if you don't post a photo of the bud...I have a micranthum that is looking like it’ll flower for the first time....hoping that doesn't jinx it.
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